Dead in the water

Rich'sToys

Well-known Member
Location
Southern MN
Last winter I did an alternator conversion on my Minneapolis Moline 445. Everything worked great and I used it a few times this spring. Then I parked it and it hasn't been used for several months. This morning I went to start it and it was totally dead! Tried jump starting it off the pickup--when I hooked the cables up there were sparks all over the place and the cables instantly got red hot in the time it took me to unhook them again.
The battery is about 3 1/2 years old. Tried hooking the charger to it and it wouldn't work either.
Looking for ideas. Bad battery, or something else? The conversion was done the same as my other tractors and in accordance with several different diagrams that have been posted here. Everything worked fine until now.
 
you might have big problems now. disconnect the dead battery and hook the booster right to the starter and ground to the block. see if it
wants to crank.
 
If it is a one wire alternator, they are designed to operate in an ON condition even when the tractor is shut off. This (to some
degree) can discharge the battery. If the alternator fails, it can be worse, If the jumpers you used were accidently put on with
crossed polarity, the reverse voltage will fry the alternator and get things hot quickly. Good luck. I recommend 3 wire
alternators because they are wired as designed by the Original equipment engineers. Jim
 
Not true about 1 wire alternators,I have tractors that sit for months with 1 wire alternators will start right up no problem.Do you actually have any tractors with 1 wire alternators or just repeating Old Mechanics Tales off the Net?
 
Janicholson,

Nope not true. Old wife's tale! 1 wire generators-alternators do not discharge a battery. One wire simple setup! It just mean that the voltage regulator is inside the alternator.

Guido.
 
I would disconnect the battery and put it on charger completely unhooked from the tractor. That would be your starting point. Even if it doesn't charge at first leave it on an it MIGHT start taking a charge. Set your charger on its lowest amperage setting or even try a trickle charger.
 
(quoted from post at 12:48:44 08/05/22) Janicholson,

Nope not true. Old wife's tale! 1 wire generators-alternators do not discharge a battery. One wire simple setup! It just mean that the voltage regulator is inside the alternator.

Guido.
ou fellas don't measure twice & cut once, do you? If you did, you would know that both 3 wire and one wire alt has a continuous drain as long as battery is connected. It is small, but always draining.

Posted by JMOR on December 21, 2008 at 04:53:08 from (76.187.218.177):
For all those who have complained about their batteries draining after tractor sits un-used for a week or so, the content of Mr. J.A. Nicholson's post over on the Farmall board, may explain the problem. I have personally measured the 'standby' alternator drain on a 1-wire set-up. I have measured that 'standby' drain on several 3-wire set-ups.

Jim says, "The internal VR in some of the one wire systems draws about 200ma (if measured across an open battery terminal) others draw more like 500ma or more."

Whereas, my measurements for 3-wire show 0.75ma.

Best case then is 200/0.75=267X worse AND worst case is 500/0.75=667X worse drain.

Knowing that you can't extract every last amp-hour out of a battery, for sake of this discussion let us assume that we can. Real life results won't be this good, by some margin. Further more, if you did extract every last A-H, then there would be zero left to operate a starter.

Start with a 75amp-hour full charged battery. Apply the 3-wire 0.75ma drain.

75A-H divided by 0.75ma=100,000 hours. Divided by 24hr/day, yields 4,167 days (or 11 years). We all know that most batteries sitting on a shelf connected to nothing won't last that long. So what this says to me is that the 0.75ma drain is reasonably insignificant.

BUT, look what happens when we apply the 267X worse or the 667X worse 1-wire 'standby' drains: the 4,167 days divided by 267=15 days.***

Even worse, 4,167 divided by 667=6 days.*****

NOW, as I said in the beginning, I have not personally measured the 'standby' drain on a 1-wire set-up, but have no reason to doubt Mr. Nicholson. So, it seems reasonable then that a dead battery after a few days might very well be related to a 1-wire alternator.

Rather than speculation or even testimonials, such as 'mine doesn't discharge that fast', I would like to see a good hand full of 'standby' drain current measurements made & posted by anyone able to perform same.

No doubt, all 1-wire regulators are not born equal.

It could be that when & where those high 'standby' drains are encountered, that the regulator is just plain faulty and really has nothing to do with 1-wire vs 3-wire. However, speculation, testimonials are not the answer, just some real current measurements.
My one wire measurement show 2.5X the drain of 3-wire. Not as much as MR. Nicholson found, but never the less considerably higher than 3-wire.

I hope we see some measurements!
 
Somewhere you have a dead short or the battery is
hooked up backwards (dead short when jumping it)
 
I would start with removing a battery cable and try to get a charge in the
battery.

Or put in a known charged battery, see if there is a spark when the last
cable is connected.

If a major spark, stop! Something is wrong. Could be mouse damaged wiring, a
serious short.

If a small spark, something is draining the battery. Check for accessories
left on, damaged alternator, corroded connection. Sometimes the back of the
ignition switch, fuse block, or any connection exposed to moisture, mouse
pee, battery acid, will grow corrosion which can be conductive.

A quick check for a simple system like an old tractor or any pre computer
vehicle is to put an incandescent test light in series between the battery
and the disconnected cable. A dim glow with an internally regulated
alternator is normal. A bright glow indicates something substantial is
draining the battery.
 
Unlike you, I have seen & measured more than one ....& they are not all black. No old wives tale here.
 
The alternator is a 3 wire, and when I jumped it the cables were connected properly.


Went out this afternoon to try a different battery. The one in there is one of those long, narrow ones. I didn't have another one of those, and a regular one wouldn't fit. So I did some rigging and temporarily got it sitting on the platform. Before connecting the negative cable, I did hook a test light between it and the battery post. It lit right up. Further checking revealed there was power on both sides of the starter solenoid. I tapped on the solenoid a few times and tried the test light again. This time it did not light. So I put the cable on and tried it. The tractor started right up, and the alternator is charging as it should.

I will be replacing that solenoid. Don't know if that was what originally drained the battery, or if something else is going on also.

I also put the original battery on the charger, and now it seems to be taking a charge. Guess I'll know tomorrow after the charger has been on it all night.

Thanks for all the replies.

This post was edited by Rich'sToys on 08/05/2022 at 06:29 pm.
 
A solenoid can weld itself if the battery is low. I would not trust it after
that as the contacts are damaged.

I remember dealing with those long batteries when I had to maintain several
forklifts. They were very troublesome, expensive, and short lived. That was
several years ago, they may have improved but I doubt it!

If there is any way to modify the battery box to take a standard battery you
will be money and aggravation ahead!
 
(quoted from post at 17:23:41 08/05/22) I'm running about 10 tractors with 1 wire alternators and have for years with no battery discharge issues.How is that for testing in real life application?
s I said, there is a constant drain & as you said, run them ofter enough & with good batteries, you will be just fine. Not a "old wives tale", though, just the facts please.
 
I just installed a new 1 wire alt and new harness set up for a 1 wire alternator from Brillman. I tested the amp draw with a Fluke true RMS meter and measured a steady 2.1 milli amp draw. With that small of a draw, I would expect the battery to be sufficient to start the tractor after sitting for 6 months.
Because I know this tractor may sit for prolonged periods, I installed a 60 amp circuit breaker to protect the wiring and give me an easy way to disconnect the harness and eliminate any draw at all.
 
My 445 uses a regular battery and it looks like a factory setup. The 445 is + ground system originally with a generator. I do not know if
that needs to be changed for the alternator.
frank
 
Yes, the chassis connection does need to change to the negative (-) terminal of the battery when changing to an alternator. Some folks say there are alternators that use a positive (+) terminal of the battery connected to chassis, but I don't believe those are very common.
 
I just checked and noted that the Brillman company lists a 6 volt alternator for positive ground for about $160.
 
(quoted from post at 19:17:43 08/05/22) My 445 uses a regular battery and it looks like a factory setup.
frank

Frank,
You need to post here 4 more times before you can upload pictures, but when you can, I'd be interested in seeing one of the battery set up on your tractor. Mine was definitely set up at the factory for the long skinny battery, but maybe they changed that later.

mvphoto95552.jpg


This post was edited by Rich'sToys on 08/05/2022 at 09:12 pm.
 

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