Compact Utility Tractor wisdom

Jaden

Member
Location
Eastern Nebraska
I am considering buying a compact tractor, approx. 35 HP for general use on an acreage. Any experiences, advice, etc. either positive or negative about various models?
 
I would buy a Deere, hydrostatic. Cant beat them for being user friendly, parts avaiability and service. Lots of you tube stuff on how to most anything.
If you can deal with the awkward two pedal system that Kubota offers, tbeir a pretty good machine. These two have been around a long time and probably will be. The rest are just price points, trying to sell you less for a little less money,IMO
 
A little more info about your needs would be good. 35hp is very near a frame size jump for most manufacturers. Rather than suggest any particular brand, what do you have for good stable dealerships near you?
 
Believe you will find that JD uses the two-pedal system for CUT and SCUT hydrostats.

Kubota uses a single HST pedal.
 
for the cost of interest and payments you can buy some pretty nice used tractors with Live PTO,Hydraulics,power steering on for a lot less. Yes they will not have alll the bells and whistles on them but you can get some with MFWD and a loader if you are looking for that. And if you can wait a year or 2 I think things will get a lot cheaper as prices of necessities get higher and luxuries get more available for sale. This will also be a regional thing too.
 
I have a Deere 1025r. Not 35hp. I think 26 but I absolutely love it. 200 hours not one problem yet. If you get the loader on it you need fluid in rear tires.
 
I bought a new JD 5045E a year ago for $18,000.00 out the door. Think that's hard to beat. I'd far rather have a larger 2wd full utility than a small 4wd compact or subcompact.
 
That's what I was going to point out. The compact size John Deere I'm familiar with uses two pedals to control forward and reverse. I think the left pedal (located on the right side of tractor) is forward and the pedal to the right of that is reverese whereas the Kubota uses a rocker type single pedal to control direction.
 
Yup single pedal/treadle on the Kubota instead of the jerk-o-matic single pedals.

After spending lots of time on both styles I absolutely despise the two separate pedal style setups for doing precise loader work, in particular using forks. The Kubota style is precise and shuttles instantly and can be done smooth as butter in all ranges and rpm. It sounds silly but foot hunting around for pedals and that snap to stop when jumping off to change pedals in a 2 pedal setup isn't as precise, very hard not to jerk a twin pedal in medium or high range esp at high rpm.

Open field work it doesn't really matter which style, they work well.
 
I don t see that you mentioned if you want a new or used tractor, or gear or hydro trans.

My dad has a JD 790. It s 33hp I believe. Yanmar 3 cyl diesel. It s been a good little tractor. 4wd with a loader.

His is old enough (early 2000 s) to where it doesn t have a bunch of electronic crap on it. Less stuff to break....
 
Good points y'all are raising. I want a loader, John Deere is the closest and best parts source. I want used. It needs to be fairly compact (low) to get around a lot of trees.
 
Your age makes a difference too. I tried them both and just harder to get my ankle to flex forward and back on the single peddle Kubota. I bought the JD.
 
If you like to spend money by all means buy a John Deere. If you want get a quick change bucket you have to buy a John Deere attachment. I bought a Massey CG 1723. I got the front end loader with a quick change bucket(most brands will work) and a back hoe. I also got set of forks for loader, a grabble bucket for loader and a three point 4 foot roto tiller. I got all that for under 27,000 or about half the price of a new pick up. I'm I surprised at what the little thing will not do no. I am surprised at what it will do. I did have a problem with it the starter went bad. The dealer showed up at my house after hours and put on a new one. I now have over 200 hours on it no other problems. I wish I had bought it years ago.
 
I like my L3560.

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It's my lawn mower, it pushes snow, it's an elevator to the loft and it a heavy lifter.

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NO DEF.

I have to either wear a mask when mowing or have a cab.. I love the cab. However if you want to add a backhoe, forget the cab..
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All good advice, I can only add go run whatever you are considering a good while before buying. I was 80% sure I was going to buy a Mahindra until I ran one my buddy has for an hour or so. Ran a John Deere too, but ended up buying a Massey (which is built by Izeki). Even it has a few annoyances but I'd buy another one, its been a good tractor.
 

Low to get around trees? Just buy a pole saw.
That's what I did. Or use a riding mower to trim around trees..

My old jubilee did a better job around trees.
 
I bought a Kubota only because I have a dealer in town that's been there since 1967. And Kubota/Case IH dealer is the only dealer in town.

Dealer support is the most important thing to consider..
If you need a part that is no longer available, then you have a compact pile of crap..
 
A friend who sells both green and orange says there is horsepower loss in a hydrostat vs. a gear drive.
 
One thing to consider if a hydro which is super handy for the smaller tractors that are not doing heavy field type work is to look for one with individual brake pedals you can actually use while using the hydro pedal. At one point in time that was only found on John Deere's , but others may be doing that now too.
If you have steep ground or want to do a tight manuver you will know why I said look for this .
 


Kubotas cost of ownership is very low. Trade it after ten years and get 95% of the original cost towards your trade. Mine has the 10 speed glide shift transmission. it is very user friendly no problems in 1700 hours and doesn't suck up power like the hydrostat does.
 
Our Kubota has split brakes, most of them had that when I was looking. In last 3500 hours been used a few times a year, mostly when crossing silly things that leave 2 tires in air spinning in 4wd as its faster than getting the diff lock in. Other use is forcing loader to go almost directly sideways when stacking bales or pallets tightly. For just steering, they all steer so tight these days there isn't a lot to gain with brakes.
 
Yea like 3% not enough to worry about and the hydro is so much friendly to use. Gear drives are sold for one reason now days PRICE .
 
Yes customer has an LG about 50 hp or so with cab maybe 5 years old, it is very very tight inside, bang yourself on everything. The mid 2000's Kubota cabs like ours far better but still not for the XXL folks, 80 lb dog squeezes in with me on the left side but only as the clutch is only needed intermittently on an HST. The recent Kubota cabs like the model in this thread much better for room. JD compact cabs pretty roomy since mid 2000's or so. Make sure you sit in it and get in and out several times if getting a cab.
 
Another thing not mentioned - in Kubota and some of the others, there is three 35 hp models with various trim levels. There is a giant span in weight between the models. The smallest models are great on a lawn but the loaders are pretty limited. The largest models with loaded tires or cast weight can handle 4x5 round bales no trouble but can't really mow wet lawns. Make sure you know what you want to do with it.
 
jm
Hydros are the only way to go if you have a loader.

Kubota hydros are very well designed. I Love the stall guard.
I Love the fact you can't stress out the hyd cylinders if you try to lift too much.

X2 only way to go..
 
Lots of info on here.
My 2 cents.

I inherited a Kubota B7500 with back hoe when mom moved to heaven.
475 hours on the machine and about 10 years or so that I had it, the 650# FEL just wasn't picking up a lot of what I needed and a 6 foot reach was too low.
That gave way to the L2501 with back hoe and an 1100# FEL, Pallet forks, snow blade, 4 way bucket and a grapple.
It had a fairly decent FEL capacity and did a lot more. Maybe not enough grunt power at 25HP and it went away at 50 hours in about a year.
Currently there is an MX5400 parked out there with 14 hours on the clock with a heavy duty 6' front bucket and a 2275# FEL.
Between the two last machines is Grand Series that accelerates the hydro trans as you increase the throttle. The FEL on the same 54 HP machine in the Grand Series is about 500 pounds less than the MX series. The next back hoe is on order for the MX5400.
Do your home work. Every manufacture out there has made, or is making, some bone head machines.
The nice part of the L2501 was no computer. The MX5400 runs a turbo and has a computer.
Think long and hard about what you need, then as many people have done, go up one or two sizes larger.
Kubota, you will pay for the name but get some reliability.
Yanmar, excuse me, John Deere. . .I have seen too many things to comment.
 
We bought a new JD 4600 in 2001, and it has been absolutely bulletproof. 37 pto hp, with a 12-12 power reverser transmission. I'm not real fond of hydrostatics, and it wastes some HP, more than the 3% someone stated. If I was doing a lot of loader work a hydrostatic would be nice. I would never consider buying one without FWA, it would be helpless!
 
I think Kubota is number one in quality. The others, including JD, are fighting for the number two place. Hydro vs gear depends on planned use. If you want to plow all day get a gear. Pretty much anything else hydro is it. Number of pedals is personal preference. I dislike the single rocker style. Sit in the different colors to feel the comfort of each one. Dont be afraid to look at all the colors. We have a fairly large LS dealer near by. He and the LS brand have a good reputation locally. I've operated a couple of their models and sure wouldnt mind owning one.
 
Given your professional opinion, when would a Kubota hydrostat need major work versus a gear drive of the same HP/configuration/hours? I remember when our local Massey dealer took on Kubota in the early '80's. One of the salesman would put a nickel on it's edge on the hood and crank it up(diesel) and it wouldn't fall over, very impressive! Thanks in advance!
 
Ours is gear drive, a neighbor bought a hydrostatic, both JD's, and he has had trouble with it overheating, and I have heard they don't tolerate that very well. Ours never overheats, regardless of conditions.
 
The GEAR drive will need a clutch way before the hydrostatic ever needs anything. Three thousan hours is easy on a 30/40hp hydrostatic IF THE TRANSMISSION HAS BEEN SERVICED AS REQUIRED AND NO OFF BRAND OIL. Not been mentioned on this thread but KUBOTA offers one more transmission that none other manufactures. Called GST or glide shift transmission. This unit offers no power robing and shifts from gear to gear and to reverse without clutching. Been a kubota exclusive for 28 years now and sold a lot of them. Cost is in between the pure gear and the hydrostatic. PRICE and I repeat PRICE is the only reason a kubota dealer sells a gear drive tractor. They have to keep one in stock for the customer that knows nothing about a tractor but he is price shopping. Most time the customer will come back at some point and say I sure wish I had got the better transmission.
 
Dean I agree with you seems he has his pedals mixed up nothing AKWARD about Kubota pedals.
 
You are correct, I typed it wrong. JD uses 2 pedals side x side, easy to use. Kubota uses a rocker, which i find hard to use reverse, very awkward. New Holland had that on some models as well.
 
(quoted from post at 10:48:48 08/03/22) I am considering buying a compact tractor, approx. 35 HP for general use on an acreage. Any experiences, advice, etc. either positive or negative about various models?
Want a cab on it for winter weather ?
When trying to tow or lift something , it is common to wish that a larger tractor had been purchased .
Below 25HP the emission equipment is little to none . Some between 25-50HP , more between 50-100HP and lots over 100HP . The Deere 3025E is the largest chassis without emissions and just an ordinary mechanical injection pump .
Our local dealer keeps the 3025E on hand for those reasons .
If installing a loader , ballast that backend like your life depends on it . Because it does .

This post was edited by buickanddeere on 08/03/2022 at 06:49 pm.
 
Thanks for the response, very informative! The GST sounds interesting and having been around for 28 years says a lot! Thanks again!
 
Make sure you buy a big enough tractor. If you try to get 35HP out of a 35 HP Compact you will break things. I got a 50 HP Compact and should have gotten a 50 HP Utility. Most Compacts are TOY tractors, not heavy or string enough to do real work.
 
I have two Kubota s one 4WD and one 2WD both are trouble free
and good machines I am getting ready to buy the 2nd 2WD
on my Farm the 2WD work great.
 
I have 4. 3 Kubotas and a JD. All less than 30 hp and all bought used. Just can't convince myself to get rid of any. Been using the heck out of my latest Swiss army knife on landscaping projects. The one thing I don't do with any of them is farm.
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To each his own. I hate the Kubota one pedal sloppy piece of crap....just saying. BUT, I do like Kubota tractors.
 
(quoted from post at 18:17:30 08/03/22) The GEAR drive will need a clutch way before the hydrostatic ever needs anything. Three thousan hours is easy on a 30/40hp hydrostatic IF THE TRANSMISSION HAS BEEN SERVICED AS REQUIRED AND NO OFF BRAND OIL. Not been mentioned on this thread but KUBOTA offers one more transmission that none other manufactures. Called GST or glide shift transmission. This unit offers no power robing and shifts from gear to gear and to reverse without clutching. Been a kubota exclusive for 28 years now and sold a lot of them. Cost is in between the pure gear and the hydrostatic. PRICE and I repeat PRICE is the only reason a kubota dealer sells a gear drive tractor. They have to keep one in stock for the customer that knows nothing about a tractor but he is price shopping. Most time the customer will come back at some point and say I sure wish I had got the better transmission.


jm. I don't count?
 
I like the hydro on my combine, but I really dislike them on a tractor. To each their own.

Kubota and JD are probably top of the line.

The other major manufacturers next in line.

Stuff from Korea next in line.

Made in China is kind of hit or miss. They do pretty good engines, but the controls and fit and finish of them tends to be awkward, sloppy, leaky.

Paul
 
We have a 48 hp John Deere. Use it all the time. Right now it is unloading a Frame straightener. Used it today to move a transmission and rear end of a AC D17. Into the shop. It is a 4320 with cab. It will lift a ton with loader or 3 point hitch. Has it been worked on. Yes . It is a 2008. Needed a new air conditioner compressor this year. Think has almost 3000 hrs. It's a hydro also. Has cruise control like a car. And the hydro is smooth you can move a 1/4 if you want. Also has a hyd top link. With a quick coupler. Can change tools from the seat.
 
I have a 1984 B6100 Kubota. Works great for what I need and is small enough to get into tight spots. Only 4' wide.
Yes rear end weight box is a must.

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II wanted a little 25 hp compact for jobs around the farm, especially a portable crane machine...with loader. Started with red and stick shift with tranny PTO, old school mentality. Was somewhat tight operator's station but I already had a tractor of that brand and liked its reliability. Put up with that for half a dozen years and one day, with a pocket full of cash, I stumbled across a light blue unit that had plenty of station room, a tilt wheel (on a 25 hp no less) to help you get in and out, 3 speed hydro and Ind PTO. WOW what a difference.
 
Cannot say anything about various models. First and most important is dealer network. You want a dealership with a long line of good service and also other dealers in driving distance with a good reputation. So many on here are asking questions about models-makes never heard of in a different part of country. And if what you are looking at is one of those models parts may become hard to find or non extiance. So dealer network is more important than the make or model of tractor.
 
A bit more why I am saying this. Several years ago we had a very good Gehl and Doytz dealer and sold a lot, he passed on and dealership closed. Was only dealer that I had heard of so when he passed that ment no parts or service. So was not very long untill those machines were nolonger being around or used. That is why I sy multiple dealerships.
 
Good point. I'm surrounded by no less than 14 John Deere dealerships. Mahindra established one dealership about 5 miles from me. They closed after about 2 years (no sales). That left the next closest Mahindra dealer over 90 miles away. I pity anyone who mbought a Mahindra although I don't know anyone who did.
 

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