A not running right

I have a 1949 model A that I used to sickle mow and rake about 2.5 acres of hay. I raked about 1.5 acres on 1 day then raked the rest the next day. It ran great.
I tried starting it on the second day of raking hay and it started awesome but then quickly started to sputter and blow plenty of black smoke with every putt. I replaced the spark plugs and the old ones were covered in soot-making me think its running really rich.
I took off and cleaned the carb (dltx 53) but some of the screws were broken so I couldn't clean every where. The float was also crinkled up but I didn't think that'd effect it.
What do I do now it still won't run right.

(quoted from post at 17:32:13 07/21/22) I have a 1949 model A that I used to sickle mow and rake about 2.5 acres of hay. I raked about 1.5 acres on 1 day then raked the rest the next day. It ran great.
I tried starting it on the second day of raking hay and it started awesome but then quickly started to sputter and blow plenty of black smoke with every putt. I replaced the spark plugs and the old ones were covered in soot-making me think its running really rich.
I took off and cleaned the carb (dltx 53) but some of the screws were broken so I couldn't clean every where. The float was also crinkled up but I didn't think that'd effect it.
What do I do now it still won't run right.

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Check to see if the crankcase is overfull with gasoline-diluted oil from the carburetor ''running over'' while it sat not running.

The black smoke and blackened plugs are evidence of flooding.

If the float is damaged it will flood. That will need to be replaced.

Flooding can also be caused by trash in the needle valve. If the tank is flaking rust or contaminated with trash it will continue to get in the needle valve and be an ongoing problem. An inline filter may help but may not work well with gravity flow systems. It can be too restrictive. The best solution is a good, clean tank, and original screens in place.

It is not really necessary to completely disassemble the entire carb. As long as you can access the internals and clear the passages, that is all that is usually necessary. A new float, and simple kit should be all it needs. Set the float to the specs which may come with the kit or can be found online. Be sure the tank is clean and screens in place.

Cleanliness of the incoming fuel is essential! Be sure to flush the fuel line before making the final connection.

Did you take that thimble looking cap covering the end of the choke shaft off? The little coil spring in there can jump off it s peg. When it does this the choke can be sucked closed and make the engine run rich. That crinkled float sends up a red flag too.

I think wore out is on to something. Sure is a PAIN when it happens to the B. Fix the float or it'll happen again. Good luck and let us know how it shakes out.
JD

If you didn't take out the brass plugs in the carb you are not able to clean those ports. Also the float needs replacing and probably the needle and seat. Good idea to shut off the gas when not in use. Ron MN

Thank you guys very much. I do shut the gas off and drain the carb every time I put it away but I will replace the float and gaskets and screens and let you know how it goes
Again thanks very much.

Your float cannot "crinkle" without getting smaller. A smaller float will float lower letting the gas level get higher. Your float is the problem.

Ok ... I gotta ask, if it was running fine and then wasn't and he opened the carb and found a ' crinkled ' float...... How???? And if it was running fine then how could the float be the issue?? I see no way it could self destruct in the carb?? Enlightenment please.....

A back fire can collapse the float and cause his issue.

(quoted from post at 04:55:16 07/22/22) Ok ... I gotta ask, if it was running fine and then wasn't and he opened the carb and found a ' crinkled ' float...... How???? And if it was running fine then how could the float be the issue?? I see no way it could self destruct in the carb?? Enlightenment please.....

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Hot day in the sun to a cool night can result in contraction.

No answer to your problem, but here is a funny story. Growing up the neighbor had an un-styled JD A with a No 5 mower attachment. He only used the tractor to mow hay by the time I remember. He was a smaller guy so he had to open the pet cocks to lower the compression so he could turn it over. He had gotten a new dog and the first time he went to crank the A the dog got all keyed up at the sound and bit him in the butt. Surprise! Surprise! After that he kept a wary eye on the dog. He would have his wife call the dog to the house and hope he got the tractor started before the dog heard the hissing and ran for his butt. RIP Don Kaney

(quoted from post at 20:32:13 07/21/22) I have a 1949 model A . . . the carb (dltx 53)

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FWIW, that's not the right carb. A '49 A should have a DLTX 71 (Gas) or 72 (All-Fuel).

That's reasonable....