Starts but will not move

This is not an old tractor, actually new with only 87 hours on it, still broken. Yesterday when cutting a small field, I noticed that the tractor was not engaging
in High or Medium gears, only low. The dealer said it needed a clutch adjustment. The clutch appeared to be working and I can put it in all gears plus forward and
reverse. The adjusted anyway and high/medium worked for about an hour. Stopped to move to low and now NO GEARS WORK. Tractor runs, revs/shows it has power but
will not move. The clutch feels tight but there is no play in it. I can put it all gears with no grinding. No jerking, no movement at all. It appears the tractor
does not know it is in gear or that the gears are not moving out of neutral. The PTO works. Appreciate any help you can provide.

Kioti CK3510 SE, two years old and 87 hours.

I also have a Kioti 35 cant remember the other numbers.Sometimes you have to get rough with the forward - reverse lever. Mine is 10 years old and has about one thousdand hours

Could be the input shaft/pressure plate splines are stripped. Any warranty?

What does it have for a transmission sounds like maybe a 4x3.

Are you sure you have the range lever engaged? I've been running a newer kubota lately and the range lever really doesn't like being shifted from low to high.

transmission is 4 x 3 Dry Single Stage Synchro Shuttle, 12 travel speeds F/R

We think it is tied to the H/M/L range selector. Can't image the gears being stripped, little use, no abuse, no grinding only 87 hours. When this started the tractor would work in High or Medium and would not turn over in High Neutral. Didn't recognize that H/N but would recognize and start in Low Neutral. And would move in low. Going to do some test to see if issue is with F/W selector or H/M/L selection. i.e. to see if it will start when in a gear vs neutral.

Should have tested this yesterday but didn't think to. Tractor has to be in neutral to start. Tractor IS Starting when Shuttle Lever is in ANY position - Forward/Reverse/Neutral. Tractor will not turn over if in H/M/L on the Range Shift Lever. So feel the issue is with the Shuttle Lever. Can see the position changing below when shuttle lever is moved, don't know why it is not recognizing the position.

This post was edited by GoingBroke on 07/10/2022 at 09:22 am.

Is the range shift a manual gear type or hydro/power shift?

its manual. We think it has something to do with the shuttle lever. The tractor is starting regardless of the shuttle lever position Forward, Neutral or Reverse. Tractor thinks it is always in Neutral...otherwise it would not start. It is F/R shuttle lever is changing position, I can see and hear it moving into other positions. Cannot see inside transmission. Tractor won't start when I leave the Range lever in a gear, High, Medium or Low. Still won't move, telling me it thinks it is in neutral not Forward or Reverse. Just don't know what causes this or how to fix.
Checking all fluids again too.

I have no idea if this will help you but hopefully I can post a link to an online parts diagrams from Michigan Big Iron and Equipment. From the parts sites I am used to using this one has a bit of a learning curve. There is ..Change Assembly.. button to view a different subsection within the Transmission section. The shifter linkages and levers are shown in the Chassis group. To change to other sections like Chassis when you click the CK3510CHSE ..which I hope is correct by your description.. it will then show you all the parts sections. Hopefully you know some mechanical terminology, it looks like they use roll pins or some type of drive in pin to hold levers onto shafts that go through to transmission case to turn levers inside to do the shifting. I would make sure those all are in place and not sheared letting the outer lever turn without motion transferred to the shaft going inside.
Parts diagrams

If this link work right it will show you the shuttle transmission
Parts diagram with shuttle shift

I think your first step is to determine what the warranty coverage is. No point buggering with it if it's under warranty. Let them fix it and pay for it.
Beyond that... I think dealer is telling you they'd look at basics first... clutch. Then if that doesn't fix it, go rooting in the transmission. Nobody wants that... so look at the clutch first, then go from there. Taking apart 12 speed syncro reversing transmissions is not that much fun and actually quite technical. If you want them to shift properly, the shim tolerance need to be set correctly so that the shafts have correct preload.

Rod

"Adjust the clutch" is a clueless dealer cop-out.

On a dry clutch system, the clutch clamps by mechanical spring force. If there is any free play in the clutch pedal AT ALL, the clutch is clamping down with all the force it can possibly make. The only way for a clutch adjustment to make any difference is if the pedal is so far out of adjustment that its holding the clutch partially disengaged. That's zero free play plus several turns of the adjustment past that.

A clutch that "slips" with a properly adjusted pedal is shot. There is no "adjusting the problem away."

Sounds like it's not likely that you're going to get any useful dealer support but that does not mean you should quit trying if the tractor is under warranty. Make their lives hell.

Now is the shuttle shifter a switch on the steering column, or a mechanical lever that mechanically shifts something on the transmission? If it's electrical it's entirely possible that the shuttle shifter is the problem because it would use simple gate logic to determine neutral, allowing you to start.

HOWEVER, that would be an entirely SEPARATE problem from before. Shuttle is all or nothing. Your original problem, you had low but no medium or high.

You might want to back that one up a bit... The dealer is probably speaking to the more common things they see come through the
door as it relates to the problem. There's a huge number of tractors out there, especially in that class... where the owners
didn't know what a clutch was until they got on the machine. They've driven automatics all their lives. So the dealer starts at
square one. I can also guarantee you they've seen this happen... either from a knowledge perspective or a simple wear/abuse
situation. You can't imagine sometimes what people can break until you see it.
For what it's worth, I had a clutch slipping this spring under load. Upon closer investigation, when I went to adjust it, I
found the pivot broken loose one one side of the cab floor.. and it was in fact sitting in such a position that the clutch was
partly disengaged. So stranger things have happened. Possibly a bolt has fallen out, as happens on a new tractor... so you check
that stuff and go from there.

Rod

You don't describe "more common things" with the phrase "stranger things have happened." Common occurrences are not strange, and a main clutch getting so badly screwed up that it is slipping, even by a novice operator, in <100 hours is indeed strange.

Since this is looking like a transmission issue and warranty will cover dealer is picking it up to repair. I will post an update on what it end up being and the fix for anyone else that may have this or a similar issue in the future. The diagrams were a tremendous help and we still hope its something simple.