Massey 35 Governor repair

The MF35 started surging and over reving so finally I suspected the governor. The first picture shows what was left after fishing them out of the oil pan. I made a gasket but decided to wait for a new one I ordered. I drained the oil and changed the filter. The third picture shows the umbrella that is put over the governor. Previous posts and repair videos indicate the tab location at 8:00 oclock. But this umbrella was from a repair 15 years ago and the direction is on it. I think I will follow that. Do you guys put any thing on the gasket when installing the timing cover? Also, the lock nut holding the bearings can only be tightened so much...its not flush against the gear but I don't want break the end of the cam. Its about 1/16th clearance. Hope it works and I welcome any advice for the repair. Thanks. Will be using the Ford 3000 giving the MF35 a rest.

When you tighten the nut, does the ball assembly get tight, or does it spin? It must be tight. Some require a big flat spacer plate behind the ball assembly, not sure what determines if it is required or not, maybe what you are up against if the nut does not sandwich everything back tight. Seems I remember something about the front of the cam gear machined flat? The flat gear does not need the spacer maybe? The back side of the ball assembly needs to be supported from behind, up against the gear or the spacer. The nut torques to 65-70 ft lbs.

While it's apart, be sure the vent hole is open up inside the cam where the umbrella stem goes in.

The up arrow is sufficient, it just positions the tab for when the cover is put on. You don't want to trap the tab behind the cover. If the cover does not go flat against the block, something is wrong. It spins around to where it needs to be when started.

I don't want to make more work for you, but I would highly suggest dropping the pan, cleaning everything out, removing the pick up tube, cleaning it thoroughly, then clean it again! There are a couple of pan bolts that are somewhat hidden at the back, be sure not to miss them!

Good idea to open the oil pump, inspect the drive screw that locks the gear to the shaft. That's a weak area, anything that gets past the screen (like pieces of the governor) has the possibility to lock the pump and shear the screw or split the gear. Be sure the pump shaft is straight in case anything went through the gears. Check the relief valve for metal fragments and free movement.

Inspect the timing gears carefully for chipped teeth or imbedded pieces of the governor cage.

If you drop the pan, put the front cover back on first, then the pan. You can put a dab of silicone where the pan gasket crosses the intersection of the cover and block, and any other transitions, like the rear main cap. Some contact cement will hold the gasket to the pan while you position it.

Thanks Steve...the cage does spin, but I'm afraid to over-tighten as I have turned it pretty good and the crankshaft is turning. I can stop it but don't want over do it. There is no washer with the kit as it would help tighten it. Is the cage supposed to be tight against the gear? I will check the other components as recommended.

Yes, the cage must be tight, it turns with the gear.

The spacer should have come with the kit. Was there one behind the one you took off?

The lock nut was welded together with the remnants of the ball bearings ( at least that's what it looked like). I will try to separate tomorrow and see if there was something behind the lock nut. I was hoping it would snug up and tighten without any help.But it got extremely hard to turn as it threaded on.

The spacer is a thin plate, about the same size as the outside of the cage. It goes between the back of the cage and the front of the cam gear.

Here's what you should have:
Governor Assembly