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massey 175 alternator wiring

C

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We want to convert our MF 175 from an alternator with external regulator to an alternator with internal regulator.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram to help us with this?
 
Like this?
cvphoto126677.jpg
 
A couple things come into play here.

Gasoline engine or diesel? Many MF diesels do not use an ignition switch, just a start switch. An oil pressure switch controls the gauges, etc.

What alternator are you planning to use?
 
My neighbor bought this tractor from a dealer.
Said it came with a new alternator. It is a diesel
Tractor that came with an original external regulator.
the new alternator that was installed before it sold has an internal regulator.
New alternator was tested off the tractor and works like it should.
 
As miangus posted the diesel wiring is different. The alternator will be excited from the oil pressure switch. I do not have a 175 wiring diagram to rework for you, but from other MF diagrams I have, I believe there are connections for other things, made at the external regulator, which will need to be addressed as part of eliminating it properly. You will need a diode in the new excitation wire which will need to be run from the oil pressure switch (normally located behind the oil pressure gauge in the dash). You can purchase pigtails for the alternator with diodes already in them to save chasing for a diode to build your own (or adding a resistor or indicator lamp).

mvphoto92548.jpg


mvphoto92549.jpg


mvphoto92550.jpg


mvphoto92551.jpg
 
Hello cabin welcome to YT! I am horrible about giving
lengthy replies that explain things in detail. I am going
to break away from that here because you already have
a lot of information. I believe your tractor has a fuel
gauge on the dash, can you turn the ignition switch to
the on position and make the fuel gauge register
without the engine running? If so that tells us there is a
circuit from the ignition switch to connect the excite
circuit of the alternator to. This is shown as number 1
at the alternator in the diagram posted by Stevie. If
that answer is yes it eliminates the need for the oil
pressure switch.

So looking at that diagrams posted so far do you think
it is clear enough for you to connect your alternator
correctly? As was mentioned by another poster
properly disconnecting the current charging system
components also adds some complexity to your task.
Lastly if you are not real good with wiring diagrams, in
JMORs post everything inside the box with dashed
outline at the upper right is the internal circuitry of the
alternator and can be disregarded for the purpose of
this post. Now I went on more than I wanted to anyway.
If you would give a quick answer to my two questions it
would help us proceed in a proper direction.
 
(quoted from post at 12:49:33 05/27/22) Hello cabin welcome to YT! I am horrible about giving
lengthy replies that explain things in detail. I am going
to break away from that here because you already have
a lot of information. I believe your tractor has a fuel
gauge on the dash, can you turn the ignition switch to
the on position and make the fuel gauge register
without the engine running? If so that tells us there is a
circuit from the ignition switch to connect the excite
circuit of the alternator to. This is shown as number 1
at the alternator in the diagram posted by Stevie. If
that answer is yes it eliminates the need for the oil
pressure switch.

So looking at that diagrams posted so far do you think
it is clear enough for you to connect your alternator
correctly? As was mentioned by another poster
properly disconnecting the current charging system
components also adds some complexity to your task.
Lastly if you are not real good with wiring diagrams, in
JMORs post everything inside the box with dashed
outline at the upper right is the internal circuitry of the
alternator and can be disregarded for the purpose of
this post. Now I went on more than I wanted to anyway.
If you would give a quick answer to my two questions it
would help us proceed in a proper direction.
Click to expand...

used red MN, from having a MF diesel and working on several others along with looking at the 175 parts book; his tractor has a start switch, not ignition switch, and there is an oil pressure switch at the back of the oil pressure gauge unless someone has changed the wiring set up in the past. The oil pressure switch controls gauges and other switched electrical functions normally switched by an ignition switch.
 
JimME okay, 10-4 we had a 1080 and it was that way. I
just saw that the 175s were produced until 1975, and
he said it came with an alternator and I am sure early
models had generators. Just thought there may have
possibly been some changes to the wiring of the
system. The suggestion to check the fuel gauge was a
simple way to tell which way to go.

To cabin fever your tractor apparently has a oil
pressure switch that when it sees engine oil pressure
closes and acts as an ..ignition on.. switch to power
the fuel gauge and whatever else. So as others have
mentioned that will be your point to connect your
..excite.. circuit. It would be quite helpful if someone
had a wiring diagram for your tractor to post. I have
access to one for a 135 with a generator but I cannot
assume it is close enough for long distance repair
instructions. I am sure if I had the tractor here I could
follow it and it would be close enough for me to get
what I need but that is not the scenario here. Sorry
about taking you off track.
 
If you really want a internal reg like a Delco 10si. I would hook up the battery terminal like normal. #2 wire I'd run it to the pos on the battery. And the #1 wire to the switched side on the oil pressure switch on the back of the oil pressure gauge. I did that once on my 175.

Problem was I lost the tach since it runs off the back of the old 10DN alternator, and there isn't a 10si with that drive. I put a rebuilt 10DN back on mine just for the tach
 
(quoted from post at 14:04:48 05/27/22) JimME okay, 10-4 we had a 1080 and it was that way. I
just saw that the 175s were produced until 1975, and
he said it came with an alternator and I am sure early
models had generators. Just thought there may have
possibly been some changes to the wiring of the
system. The suggestion to check the fuel gauge was a
simple way to tell which way to go.

To cabin fever your tractor apparently has a oil
pressure switch that when it sees engine oil pressure
closes and acts as an ..ignition on.. switch to power
the fuel gauge and whatever else. So as others have
mentioned that will be your point to connect your
..excite.. circuit. It would be quite helpful if someone
had a wiring diagram for your tractor to post. I have
access to one for a 135 with a generator but I cannot
assume it is close enough for long distance repair
instructions. I am sure if I had the tractor here I could
follow it and it would be close enough for me to get
what I need but that is not the scenario here. Sorry
about taking you off track.
Click to expand...

Early ones did have generators but they were using the externally regulated Delcos at the end. The parts book shows a mechanical tach, driven off the back of the alternator. So either way he may be giving up a tach or searching for a different alternator.
 
I have a MF85 and a 175. The 85 had a generator. 175 has an alternator ext reg, that's the Delco 10DN. When the generator on the 85 died I converted it to the 10DN alt. It was a direct fit except for the mount. Used the pulley off the gen for the proper drive speed for a tach.

When I put the alt on the 175, I added the hydraulic switch to the oil line, like the 175 and wired the regulator to it.
 
Is there a wire on the #4 terminal of the regulator?

If so that wire can supply power to the diode on the plug in harness.

Or if you don't want the hassle of altering the wiring, get a one wire
alternator. It eliminates all external wiring except the main output wire.

It can also be bought with a tach drive.
 
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