Wiring issues Ford Workmaster

FSA1953

Member
I'm looking to see if my generator is charging my battery how do I check this?
Also maybe a wiring diagram for 12 volt positive ground system with generator. Will it hurt to use the 30-0-30 ammeter for 12 volt or do I need to get the 60-0-60 ammeter?

Thanks for the help
 
You should have 12.6v at the battery with tractor shut off. You should have about 13 to 14 at the battery when running. Depends on rpm's too, especially with a generator.
A 30-0-30 ammeter is fine, has nothing to do with voltage.
 
I have 12.7 volts at battery with tractor off. When running I have 12.8 at battery shouldn't the volts be a little higher like 13-14? The generator is putting out 15-16 volts. The previous owner rewired it from 6 volt to 12 volt positive ground I'm trying to see if they wired everything correctly. Previous owner said battery would have to be jumped every couple of days so I'm thinking he missed a wire somewheres along the line for charging the battery. I can't seem to find and wiring diagram on showing what wires go where.

Thanks for the help
 
(quoted from post at 06:58:53 05/04/22) I have 12.7 volts at battery with tractor off. When running I have 12.8 at battery shouldn't the volts be a little higher like 13-14? The generator is putting out 15-16 volts. The previous owner rewired it from 6 volt to 12 volt positive ground I'm trying to see if they wired everything correctly. Previous owner said battery would have to be jumped every couple of days so I'm thinking he missed a wire somewheres along the line for charging the battery. I can't seem to find and wiring diagram on showing what wires go where.

Thanks for the help
re you certain that you have a 12v generator & 12v regulator?
 
Gentleman put brand new 12 volt generator
and regulator on have receipts when
purchased tractor. Generator is putting
out about 15-16 volts. Unless regulator is
bad. Idk
 
(quoted from post at 07:42:34 05/04/22) Gentleman put brand new 12 volt generator
and regulator on have receipts when
purchased tractor. Generator is putting
out about 15-16 volts. Unless regulator is
bad. Idk
re terminals on your regulator arranged , left to right, as B-A-F or A-F-B ?
kR8wEB5.jpg


This post was edited by JMOR on 05/04/2022 at 09:34 am.
 
If you have 14-15 volts at the generator, but it's not making it to the battery, either there is a wiring problem or a regulator problem. Even a new regulator can be bad or was damaged if improperly wired or polarized.

Also be sure the base of the regulator is properly grounded.

The 30 amp amp meter is correct.

Here's a link to a past post on the subject with a diagram.
Wiring Diagram
 
(quoted from post at 16:06:50 05/04/22) Is A-F-B
K, you can "full field" the generator to obtain maximum output by connecting the Field terminal to the Arm terminal while running at speed. If still no rise at battery, temporarily connect Batt to Arm and look for battery voltage rise. The combined steps virtually eliminate the VR. Remove jumpers immediately if engine is stopped.

This post was edited by JMOR on 05/04/2022 at 01:29 pm.
 
I'll work on moving the wires around and
see what happens.
I attached a photo of and open spot with 4
looks like clips for something terminal
block? I looked for one but the don't look
like the original. Any idea where I can
get an original terminal block if that's
what goes there?

Thanks
cvphoto124966.jpg
 
Picture not good enough to tell for certain, but that may be the terminal block just above & to right of your red circle, with no wires connected to it? Questions arises in my mind (because most right wire on VR looks smallest of the three is, does that center wire (Field) connect on other end to Field terminal on generator? Field is generally smaller wire than the other two. Of course, all can be changed over life of tractor.
 
Yes field is connected from VR to F on
generator. There's nothing in that area of
the red circle if that's where the
terminal block goes. The wires you see are
cut off of the fuel gauge, ammeter the
only thing that works is the oil pressure
gauge. Should I just up the gauge of the
wires from the VR to generator?

Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 12:35:40 05/06/22) Yes field is connected from VR to F on
generator. There's nothing in that area of
the red circle if that's where the
terminal block goes. The wires you see are
cut off of the fuel gauge, ammeter the
only thing that works is the oil pressure
gauge. Should I just up the gauge of the
wires from the VR to generator?

Thanks
wouldn't change your wire gauges. The terminal block remained the same part for many Ford tractors & is available on YT site.
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/8NNN14448A_Terminal-Block_17470.htm
On a NAA (generation before yours) tractor, it was located as shown here: Perhaps others can tell you if same location or not.
1KHcAD8.jpg
 
All wires going from the VR to generator are all 12 gauge wire and the ground wire to generator is a real small wire
 
(quoted from post at 15:34:30 05/06/22) All wires going from the VR to generator are all 12 gauge wire and the ground wire to generator is a real small wire
hat is ok, as if good mechanical connections, gnd wire carries no current & if bad mechanical connections , it only carries a fraction of an amp for energizing VR coils, unless the gen were completely isolated, which seems unlikely.

This post was edited by JMOR on 05/06/2022 at 02:03 pm.
 
I was just reading my response from my
Facebook chat room and a gentleman said he
doesn't think the 12v generator might not
work with positive ground if so how'd the
6v generator work then. He said I may have
to switch everything to negative ground
for the generator to work is that true? If
so I'll need a diagram on which wire goes
where so I do it correctly.

Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 09:14:56 05/07/22) I was just reading my response from my
Facebook chat room and a gentleman said he
doesn't think the 12v generator might not
work with positive ground if so how'd the
6v generator work then. He said I may have
to switch everything to negative ground
for the generator to work is that true? If
so I'll need a diagram on which wire goes
where so I do it correctly.

Thanks
"V". He said, "he doesn't think"! Stay away from facebook OPINIONS. No, that is not correct. Only thing required for a generator to output one polarity or another is which way it is polarized. Once it has been connected and run in a system, it is in fact polarized. If polarized one way and then installed with a battery connected differently (i.e., battery pos gnd & gen polarized for NEG gnd, then the regulator has a good chance of being damaged. Illustration shows the POS to NEG clash at cut out contacts, where gen polarity is opposite battery polarity..
apekG8Y.jpg


This post was edited by JMOR on 05/07/2022 at 06:42 am.
 
What's the difference between the 12v 3 post solenoid and the 4 post does it matter? I see some wiring diagrams showing the 3 post and some 4 post.

Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 18:15:55 05/08/22) What's the difference between the 12v 3 post solenoid and the 4 post does it matter? I see some wiring diagrams showing the 3 post and some 4 post.

Thanks
he 3 post type requires either a ground or battery voltage to be applied to the small terminal to energize. Batt or Gnd depends on the solenoid part number. Most old Fords require a ground to be applied via neutral safety start switch.. Your tractor originally had a 4 terminal unit that needed gnd from neutral safety start switch AND battery voltage from the ignition switch. Later in life there came along another 4 terminal unit requiring batt voltage to one small terminal to activate and the second small terminal supplied battery voltage out to the ign coil during start to bypass the ballast resistor , thus compensating for the lower battery voltage during start. There are even % terminal solenoids.
 
I have rewired my tractor and now I'm at a
stop. The fat yellow that's circled does
that get hooked to the terminal block or
straight to the ammeter? Cause the
instructions that came with the wiring
harness shows it going to the terminal
block and another drawing I got from this
site shows it going to the ammeter and
another wire from the ammeter to the
terminal block. Which is correct? Also
when I do hook the ammeter up with two
wires separate wires the yellow wire to
the terminal block I get a discharge and
when I switched the separate wires I get a
charge this is with the tractor not
running. Should the ammeter always have
power to it with the key off or do I need
to add a third wire from the ammeter?
cvphoto125682.jpg
 

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