John deere 4230 clutch

Hi everyone well I'm splitting a 4230 tractor to swap out a wet clutch .
Does anyone know it their is a clutch alignment tool available for this model or parts number. I been looking around and can't seem to locate one. It a quad rage transmission if that matters. Some clutch kits don't come with that alignment tool. I do know it needs to be adjusted also on the fingers. In the past I used the socket on the extension on cars but in this case it's a little different. Thanks in advance!!

There is an adjusting tool to adjust both clutch finger heights,but I do not know of an alignment tool.
Those clutches are not engaged as you install them,hydraulic pressure engages them,when in use,unlike dry clutches as on a 4020.

(quoted from post at 17:08:02 05/02/22) Hi everyone well I'm splitting a 4230 tractor to swap out a wet clutch .
Does anyone know it their is a clutch alignment tool available for this model or parts number. I been looking around and can't seem to locate one. It a quad rage transmission if that matters. Some clutch kits don't come with that alignment tool. I do know it needs to be adjusted also on the fingers. In the past I used the socket on the extension on cars but in this case it's a little different. Thanks in advance!!

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No alignment tool is needed as the traction and PTO discs are "loose" until the engine us started and clutch pressure comes up.

The mechanism is set up so the two clutch hubs are retained fairly close to centered, and will easily fit over the male splines if you bar then engine over a little as you GENTLY roll the halves of the tractor back together.

As to setting the fingers you REALLY need the elaborate and $$$ official tool.

You can take the flywheel off, install the new clutch assembly and "march mark" it and the flywheel and take the unit to a dealership or or other shop that has the tool, and have them set all 6 fingers.

Mite as well replace the crankshaft seal while you're in there.

Use new flywheel bolts with the appropriate thread locker/sealant on them or you may wind up with a situation of engine and transmission/hydraulic oil migrating between the systems.

Then, install the clutch, matching the marks you made so it's as it was when it was set.

Did you remove the little hex shaft that drives the transmission pump through the plugged hole at the back of the tractor BEFORE splitting it?

If NOT it MAY have gotten bent. If it hasn't already been "pulled", pull it before rolling the tractor back together and check it over carefully before reusing it.

Welcome to YT
You have received some very valuable information. I remember the 1st tractor I supervised being split to R&R Perma-clutch when I served as a JD dealer service manager in the late 70's. I thought how did JD engineers imagine that those ""thin clutch discs"' could last very many hours of use. They weren't called a Perm-clutch for no good reason. My 4255 has 11600 hrs on original clutch discs & the clutch has been disengaged/engaged while operating a rd baler over 100,000 times since '91.

If you are getting a complete rebuilt clutch assembly, it may come already adjusted. Check with your supplier. No alignment tool needed.