- Thread starter Crane guy
- Start date
used red MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coon Rapids, MN
Hello Crane Guy welcome to YT! You did not give us much to go on. I see you edited your post but nothing is written in it. If you want to add some more details you can go through the edit process again. Or you can just open your post which you would have to do to see this then just hit ..Reply.. above the top box where is says ..Edited by Crane guy. Where are you at in mechanical knowledge? Baby, Youth, Teenager or Adult? A Baby question would be did you replace the fuel filters. Is the emergency air shut off hanging closed blocking air the air intake to the blower? Not to common because they usually have a trip to let them full slam shut. To move up to Youth level questions or above we probably need a little more info from your end.
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
To answer the beginner level questions . I just type slower so they can keep up .
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
A four valve 4-53 with all the N series injector, piston, sleeve, springs , low lift cam and blower seals . Good for 2800 rpm and 140HP all day .
Idk what happened to my description, sorry just learning how to navigate through this.
I have a 453 no. Turbo detroit, losing rpms after about 2-3 seconds after it high idles 2500-2800 rpms roughly. I hve replaced blower, new seals in blower , new filters installed check valve in low suction side before pump. Overhead is set to spec, no oil puking out the crank case, new n50 injectors. Still wont idle steady and drops out at high idle?
Idk what happened to my description, sorry just learning how to navigate through this.
I have a 453 no. Turbo detroit, losing rpms after about 2-3 seconds after it high idles 2500-2800 rpms roughly. I hve replaced blower, new seals in blower , new filters installed check valve in low suction side before pump. Overhead is set to spec, no oil puking out the crank case, new n50 injectors. Still wont idle steady and drops out at high idle?
Fritz Maurer
Well-known Member
Pull the return line off the tank and see if there are
bubbles in the return fuel. What machine is this in?
Tank above or below pump? Any smoke?
bubbles in the return fuel. What machine is this in?
Tank above or below pump? Any smoke?
Fritz Maurer
Well-known Member
Was it presenting these symptoms before or after you did all this work on it?
Fritz Maurer
Well-known Member
It will never run smooth with air going through the injectors. Check every fitting between the suction side of the pump and the fuel tank. If you have spin-on filters, inspect the filter head for cracks where the NPT fittings thread in, wedge action caused by over tightening. If cartridge type filter, make sure good gasket on retainer bolt, and a good gasket where the can meets the head. If you have old braided DOT hose, or any hose that is crispy in way, throw it all out and get new hoses made up, or make them yourself if the hoses have reusable ends. If you have an auxiliary water separator, those can be a source of trouble also. If the suction line goes in the tank at the top, there will be a dip tube in the tank. The tube can crack next to the weld without breaking all the way off, thus creating an air leak. If all of the above checks out, hook a piece of hose to the suction side of the pump, bypassing everything, and put the other end in a can of fuel. If you STILL have air, then it is coming in past the pump shaft. Everything downstream of the pump is under pressure, air cannot enter. The above is not intended to be checked in stated order, start with the easy / cheap stuff first.
Fritz Maurer
Well-known Member
An idea that might be helpful is to plumb in a foot of clear vinyl tubing downstream of the orifice fitting. That way you can see whats going on at a glance without having to unhook the line or run it into cans and making a mess. Do not install the line anywhere between the pump and the orifice. It may not hold the pressure.
I sprayed ether over the head seam and it reve up briefly, might be putting a gasket kit in it. Also I have went over my fuel system 5 times thinking the same thing. I cant find anywhere that air is getting in. Its in every fuel fitting I crack on the fuel lines on head. The only thing I can thing it its a stuck check valve in the injectors on the compression stroke, but those are new ?
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
place 10psi air pressure on the fuel line from the tank to engine. You may hear air hissing or find leaks with soap bubbles.
Fritz Maurer
Well-known Member
Possibly a cracked nozzle retainer nut... if you have
foam at all the injectors either compression is being
blown into the inlet rail, or you are still missing a
vacuum leak between tank and pump. Bad injectors
like that are rare, plus you said it was running
poorly before all this work... I am hesitant to blame
this on the injectors. Hook up a temporary fuel
system directly to the suction side of the pump.
Bypass everything, including the tank. If you still
have foam, it is the pump or bad injector. No foam,
there is still an air leak between pump and tank.
Sometimes, it helps to put another pair of eyeballs
on the project... when these projects drag on for
days you get frustrated and start going blind to little
details. Went to a friends house last week where he
had been trying to start a IHC 9.0 for two days after
eliminating the water separator, which had failed (
(1987 school bus). Now a 9.0 is about the easiest
engine to bleed, ever. Operating the hand pump,
absolutely nothing. Started checking over his work
and found he had neglected to tighten the Union of
the two lines where he removed the water
separator. Just silly stupid mistakes you can make
when you start getting disgusted.
foam at all the injectors either compression is being
blown into the inlet rail, or you are still missing a
vacuum leak between tank and pump. Bad injectors
like that are rare, plus you said it was running
poorly before all this work... I am hesitant to blame
this on the injectors. Hook up a temporary fuel
system directly to the suction side of the pump.
Bypass everything, including the tank. If you still
have foam, it is the pump or bad injector. No foam,
there is still an air leak between pump and tank.
Sometimes, it helps to put another pair of eyeballs
on the project... when these projects drag on for
days you get frustrated and start going blind to little
details. Went to a friends house last week where he
had been trying to start a IHC 9.0 for two days after
eliminating the water separator, which had failed (
(1987 school bus). Now a 9.0 is about the easiest
engine to bleed, ever. Operating the hand pump,
absolutely nothing. Started checking over his work
and found he had neglected to tighten the Union of
the two lines where he removed the water
separator. Just silly stupid mistakes you can make
when you start getting disgusted.
Fritz Maurer
Well-known Member
Just like to throw in there, please make sure the emergency shut down is functioning....
sounds like you have checked almost everything. i've had to do this more times than i care to think about, back up and start at the fuel tank, first try looking at the bottom of the tank if possible for foreign
material. ie paper, gravel, rubber particles etc. don't forget to check the vent , then remove the sump tube if removable check for cracks or holes, if there are any elbows or reduction fittings take them
apart and check for foreign material, work on down the system all the way to the fuel filter line connections checking for the same as the sump tube. if nothing is found try teeing in a pressure gage between
the lift pump and the filters to see if you are losing charge pressure at high speed.
material. ie paper, gravel, rubber particles etc. don't forget to check the vent , then remove the sump tube if removable check for cracks or holes, if there are any elbows or reduction fittings take them
apart and check for foreign material, work on down the system all the way to the fuel filter line connections checking for the same as the sump tube. if nothing is found try teeing in a pressure gage between
the lift pump and the filters to see if you are losing charge pressure at high speed.
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