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IH 1086 slipping

crsutton81

crsutton81

Member
I have a 1086 that once warmed up it will start slipping horrible under a load. The clutch that is in it now was installed approximately 8 years ago with all new parts and flywheel turned. Our local mechanic told me when I purchased this tractor 20 plus yrs ago, that he had welded out the T/A to totally take it out of play. He has since passed in a car accident and not totally sure what all he did do to that part. Assuming the T/A is not a factor in this situation, it would have to be time for another clutch job wouldn't it ? Is there anything else it could be ? The control linkages for the clutch do have slack in them for it to fully engage. It does see a fair amount of hard pulling still as it is our field cultivator tractor.
 
I think you would almost have to split the tractor to really know what is going on . One question, was the clutch surface on the fly wheel smooth? Was it turned? If it was deeply grooved and not replaced or turned it would cause premature wear on clutch disc. What kind of shape was the pressure plate in last time the clutch plate was replaced? Several components there that can fail, and very hard to determine just what is causing the clutch to slip without a look inside.
 
Bruce when it was split the last time, it did receive new pressure plate, clutch disk, all bearings and rear engine and front tranny seals. It also did have the flywheel turned and in good shape.
 
things that come to mind, is its tail twisted pretty good, what do you mean by hard work [pulling], how many pressure springs on pressure plate, and number of pads on disc. also open up inspection plate to see if she has developed a seal leak.
 
Sounds like you pretty much have it pinned down. It is time for a new clutch. Hard pulling should not matter but loader work is hard on a clutch. Do them tractors have a foot throttle? Loader work with hand throttle running two thirds open or better is very hard on the clutch.
 
I would find the specs for the flywheel and measure it when you get it apart. First clutch job on our 3088 they cut the flywheel, third time for a split found they cut the flywheel to minimum specs. As soon as the pads wore a little, no more clutch! Was a real head scratcher til thought to measure flywheel. Everything looked like it was fine but wouldn't work.
 
I don't get all this flywheel turning. I don't turn them and have done many clutches over the years with none coming back for many years. Trucks and tractors.
 
I agree with you Caterpillar guy. I think some of these shops just automatically cut the flywheel when doing a clutch job whether or not it actually needs it! I'm sure our 3088 didn't need that done the first time it went for a clutch but I didn't get to see it before the work was done. Of the few I've worked on I only ever saw 1 that really needed cut as the flywheel had been over heated to the point the pads wouldn't get a grip. Clutch had to be slipping for a long time. The neighbor brought me that one to cut and I only took enough off to get under the heat hardened surface, a few thousandths of an inch if I remember, not a quarter of an inch! Paul
 
These tractors have a hand throttle only. This particular tractor has never had a front-end loader on it. I'm pretty sure that no fluids are leaking into the clutch area. I do have a draft link pin on the 3 pt that leaks only when it's parked for an extended period of time that I want to fix when I can get a moment to do it.
 
First I've ever heard of a TA being "welded" on a large frame tractor. Is that even possible?

Assuming that hasn't let go, it HAS to be the clutch. There is no place else in the tractor that could slip "sometimes" period. The rest is all steel gears. If one of those slipped, it would be exactly once, it would make a horrible racket, and you'd know unless you were the most oblivious person on the planet.
 
Pull that plate off the bottom and make sure the throw out bearing is not touching the pressure plate fingers when the clutch is not pressed in.
 
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