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Great lights for barns, shops

P

Philip d

Well-known Member
One of the fluorescent fixtures in our barn got damaged recently beyond repair so I replaced it with one of these high bay UFOs. This ones only 100W and according to the chart is suitable for 10-14 ceilings like we have. It was easy to install and is a lot brighter than the 6 bulb 4 foot t5 fixture that it replaced. A fraction of the cost and consumes less power also. We install these in lots of places at work. Instant on and lots of light, everyone loves them.
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Those are good lights. We have the same ones in one of our warehouses, except we have the ones that change colors. This allows those guys to know without looking what areas are full, or whatever. I think they have onky had one unit go bad in like 3 years now.
 



I have been looking at those. It appears that they all come with just a cord but no junction box. When replacing a florescent fixture you would have to first install a junction box with outlet, which technically calls for a permit.
 
Within the last year, I've helped put up several hundred of those in some of the area dairy barns. Pretty much a troublefree light.
 
This one did come with a male cord end, I just cut the end off,
stripped the cord back about 4 inches and made the
connections inside the existing junction box the fluorescent
was tied into. Our barn fixtures all have cords and are tied into
junction boxes.
 
What happens (in the dusty ag environment) when dust and chaff builds up on top and insulates the cooling fins? (out of sight, out of mind, most will never be checked or cleaned off, most likely).

I realize LED's don't make the kind of heat incandescent do, but the cooling fins are there for a reason.

On a related note, my late Uncle was a Master Electrician and wired MANY barns and other ag buildings from the coming of Rural Electrification up into the early 90's.

In barns and haymows they used fixtures with a "mason jar" globe to protect the bulbs and catch the hot pieces if one ever "popped".

Often, they were mounted to steel "hexagonal boxes" which had various unused screw holes in them.

It was surprising, over 30 or 40 years how much material could enter the box, winding up on to of the HOT porcelain lampholder.

Once in a while, you would hear of one lighting off and smoldering, NOT a good thing over hay and straw, probably caused a few barn fires when no one noticed in time.
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That is a good question about the dust on the heat syncs, I
may have to ask my journeyman that.
 
Couple questions about your electrical code

1 does cutting the cord cap off and hardwiring not void the csa rating as a rated assembly ?

2 does the code allow hardwiring extension type cord into a junction box ?
 
I cant see why not, the Sylvania lights we install at work have the identical cord only no cord cap and thats how we install those.
 
All LED fixtures or lamps have an electronic driver, the colling fins are there to keep the temperature within the tolerance of the electronics so the driver doesn't
fail. As for the dust, it depends on the dust, but if the dust is that flammable, a Class II Div 2 rated fixture should be used. But most materials have a rather high
autoignition temperature.
 
Yes youd be correct, thered be certain areas with flammable and explosive dust that they wouldnt be suitable where youd need a different IP rating than just 65 thats good for moisture protection.
 
Have any of you guys found the factory source where more info could be obtained then listed on the Amazon site? I am interested in the High Boy light with the reflector, as that's the only one recommended for lower ceilings. I've a 10 ft ceiling and they say this lamp works well from 9 to 16 ft. I'd like a clue to light spacing for good solid light you could read by in any part of the shop. Currently I'm using inexpensive 4 ft leds from a box store and they are NLA. Under $20 ea. I have 16 of them 4 rows wide and 4 lamps deep in a section of the shop spaced about 6' apart in all directions, they are not real bright ones, 2300 lumens/fixture but they light that area perfectly. I'd just like a rough idea of spacing so I'm not trying reinvent the wheel. Thanks. Larry
 
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