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Replacing press-in zerks?

stevieb49829

stevieb49829

Well-known Member
Location
Spirit Lake, Idaho
My hydraulic cylinder has a press in grease zerk on one cross tube that is not fixable. Is there a way of removing them that does not involve destroying the hole its pressed into? It didn't move with a visegrips on it. And if I snap it off, its too hard to drill out. There's got to be a way, short of welding a nut over it. steve
 
Use the vice grips, but then ous (the big screw Drivers) to pry on the vice grips where they clamp on.. Jim
 
Funky is correct. I replaced a lot of drive in alemites on fertilizer buggies. They are very soft and drill out with little effort. They are so soft that they can break off if they become clogged up. I much prefer the threaded ones.
 
This one is so hard the visegrip's don't even leave a mark on them - they just slide off. So trying to pry the visegrips up will not work. I'm leaning toward the welded nut trick here really shortly. And I will tap the hole for a screw-in one when I get this one out.
 
Try a cold chisel driving it under the flange first on one side and then the other. I have ermoved many a zerk like that. And I have found the castings they are in are too hard to drill. If the chisels do not work as is then heat it and let cool and try it again.
 
The cross tube is mild steel, so the cold chisel just might do the trick. I'll try it in the morning. If I shear it off, I'll pull the pin and drive the rest out to the inside. steve
 
I've replaced drive ins with another then tacked a little weld to hold it in place. These were situations where a little heat wasn't going to damage a seal.
 
Cat Guy: That's where I went just before nodding off last night. I won't even pull the pin - just drill and tap a new hole. Might leave a little divet in the pin, but that will just hold some grease for an emergency. I will try the claw hammer first, though. steve
 
IJ, I have another one that is stripped out. I think the spot weld trick will work there, but there is really limited space through an access slot. I may leave that one until I tear the whole loader apart for paint, to get the bucket stuff out of the way. steve
 
The claw hammer just sheared it off. BUT, I tested the stub with a sharp drill bit, and its soft enough to drill out and tap. I'm good now, except for drilling and tapping overhead, laying on a moving blanket. Barney says safety goggles are called for. steve
 
I was wrong. The remaining stem was hard enough to eat a really nice, sharp drill bit. So, I pushed the pin half way out, drove the stub into, and out of the cross tube, drilled the hole to size and tapped it. Ready for a new screw-in zerk, when I get to town. Thanks for all the ideas. steve
 
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