Paint Question

Vicinalvictor

Well-known Member
I'm working on a 5 x 10 utility trailer frame. I power washed it, but it is old and rusty. I cannot decide whether to use a rust converter, paint it with Rustoleum or what? What do you guys think?
 
Definitely use the rust converter. You won't be sorry. After that is done you can paint over it for a nice finish if you want.
 
For rust converter to leave a paint-able surface must the surface first be cleaned of rust scale and to some degree roughness?
 
Small angle grinder with a crimped wire cup. Take as much rust off as easily possible. Clean with acetone and spray with rust-olem rusty metal primer. Follow directions as to doing color coats.
 
Hit the big top flat spots witn and abgle grinder and some 60 grit flap wheels. Then rinse with dupont Metel prep Then prime and paint.
 
You need to remove loose rust. But the one in use recommends leaving some rust on for it to react with. It goes on Grey and when enough coats are applied it turns black, then it's ready for paint. I can't think of the brand now, but I get it a the hardware store and it's called rust stop. Has always worked great for me.
 
I repaint lots of rusty metal. Get what you can with the 3 twisted wire wheel. Here's the trailer frame I did last February.
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Be aware that rust converter is not a permanent solution. As soon as the reaction of the converter reaches completion, the part starts to rust again. Even if the product says it's the final solution.

You need to paint over the rust converter once it has "dried."
 
The active ingredient in most rust converters is phosphorus acid.

Check out Amazon for a gallon of phosphoric acid.
I think you get more bang for your buck at Amazon.
 
I don't know what you have for power washer size but I have good luck with a 3500 PSI power washer with a good rotary nozzle. Any paint that is left is stuck on well enough it will not come off under the new paint.
 
i understand its the frame that is in question. the auto collector people have used pore15 for years on the cars they restore. it is applied over stable rust. just remove loose rust and dirt and any grease [clean as for paint] . yes; wire brushes and phosphoric acid also have theyr place in other situations.
 
Well, old and rusty, can mean many things. If it's flaky, crispy rust, you'd better sandblast it if you want a thorough job. Go full blast and get the steel looking gray and smooth, then the old junk is gone. Spray on two full coats of self-etching primer and then topcoat. I've never been real happy with just applying rust converter before a topcoat. My opinion is rust converter is a band-aid.
 
Looks like Loctite bought the Extend brand, so it's probably not too bad. I've used the old stuff & was satisfied.
 
The rust converter is really only good for light surface rust, usually on new metal. For what you are doing I think you would be better off using a knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder and clean it off. Then use an epoxy primer on the spots.
 

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