Allis WD valves

Hello, Having trouble setting valves on my WD Allis. I turn engine over till i have pressure blowing against my thumb on # 1 piston. Then slowly keep turning with the crank till mark is facing down on flywheel and magneto clicks, (should be TDC right?) So i set # 1 and # 2 but 3 and 5 seem to be opening valves at this point?? I am sure you can set 1,2,3,5 at the same time? No timing gears were removed when i removed the head and tractor was running before i started. Anyone have an idea i could try??

HELP

Turn the crank one more full turn after the first two are set Jim

Set the valves on no. 1, then turn the engine half
revolution for the succeeding cylinders, and follow
the firing order.

I prefer this method, when the exhaust is almost closed an intake starting open on # 4, set both valves on 1. Turn engine 1/2 turn and set the next cylinder in firing
order. Keep going 1/2 turn at a time until all valves are set in firing order. Remember, 1 and 4 are at TDC together, 2 and 3 are at TDC together, but the CAMSHAFT
determines which one is ready to fire.

This is how I set valves. When the intake valve is open I set the exhaust and when the exhaust valve is open I set the intake. That way you know for sure you get it right and you know for sure the valve your setting is 1000% closed

If you wait for the magneto to click, you are past TDC. Spark happens when the piston is past TDC and on its way down. So, in your case you will see some of the other
valves starting to open.

As long as the valve is closed, does it really matter where the piston is? I just roll them till the valves are closed and set those. roll some more and set some more.
AaronSEIA

I do it the same as Aaron does. Am I doing it wrong?

There are a number of ways to set valves as you are seeing. Your post sounds like you might be trying to do it by the Rule of Nine's method, but your numbers don't add up. If, you haven't succeeded yet and haven't decided whose method to use, I suggest you go with Dieseltech's method for now.

Forget about the mag. Forget about feeling for compression. Always rotate the engine in the direction it rotates when running while making adjustments, to keep geartrain slack in the proper place. If you go past the point wanted you can back up, but back up more than need then turn forward in the proper direction to get to the point you need.

You have the rocker cover off, so look at the rockers. If #1 cylinder is at TDC on compression, both valves on #1 cylinder should be closed and the #4 valves "on the rock" (look closely at the rockers as you turn the engine and you will see the exhaust is finishing closing and the intake is just starting to open). The timing mark should be lined up, if you want to check it. Set both valves on #1 cylinder. Turn the engine 1/2 a rotation. Valves on number 3 cylinder should be "on the rock" and the valves on #2 cylinder will be closed. Set both valves on #2. Half a turn more and #1 will be "on the rock" so you can set #4's valves and half a turn after that #2 will be "on the rock" so you can set #3's valves.

'Usually' the firing order on most engines is 1342 or 153624. So on a 4cyl, when the valves 'rock'(intake
opens as the exhaust closes-both valves will be tight) on #4, #1 will be on TDC(both valves will be loose),
and #1 can be adjusted. Just observe as you bar(rotate) the engine over. Adjust, and then go thru the firing
order-#2 will rock and adjust #3 and so on until done. Companion cylinders-the pistons go up and down at the
same time, but on a different stroke-intake, compression, firing, exhaust. On a 6cyl, it's 1&6, 5&2, 3&4. The
companion #s always equals 5(4cyl) or 7(6cyl).This can be done if there aren't any timing marks. Easy, peasy!
Mark.

True, piston location isn't what is needed, where the cam lobe is, is important. Just because a valve is closed doesn't mean the lifter is at the lowest point on the lobe. The cam lobe is like a ramp so unless you rotate and keep checking the clearance to find the lowest point, how do you tell where the lifter is on the ramp. If it's not at the lowest point when the clearance is adjusted, you can end up with extra clearance when it is running. I'm interested, how do you tell it's at the low point for making adjustment?

That is why I adjust valve the way I do. intake open then adjust the exhaust valve. Exhaust open adjust the intake that way your almost 100% sure the cam is where it needs to be t get a correct adjustment

I use a very simple but fool proof method...

Pull the plugs so not fighting compression. Start with the front valve for
convenience, turn the engine until the valve is closed, get the feeler gauge
in, start hand turning the engine, feeling and adjusting for the loosest gap
wherever it is found. Snug down the lock, turn it through again just to be
sure it's right.

I feel for a slight drag on the gauge.

If this is the first assembly after a reassembly, I'll not worry to get it
perfect as it will need to be redone after the initial run and head retorque.

Then go back through, checking again, but this time being very meticulous to
get them exactly right. I'll usually start it up with the cover off to listen,
and be sure they are all oiling.

This method takes a little longer, but worth it to be sure they are right.
Especially if it is one that is not easily accessed because the tank has to
come off!

Wow. Talk about making a simple job complicated. You could even do like you do with a hot cam. Turn
engine until valve is completely open and then turn engine one full turn. That way you know for sure
the lifter is on the very heel of cam.

Or, like we used to do, adjust while engine is running to find lowest point of cam.

I just go right down the firing order watching mate cylinder valves. That way all cylinders are
adjusted alike on those old engines. The simplified version of turning engine only once can give you
slight variations on different valves and you always have to remember the sequence for different
firing order engines.

(quoted from post at 11:59:45 03/12/22) If you wait for the magneto to click, you are past TDC. Spark happens when the piston is past TDC and on its way down. So, in your case you will see some of the other
valves starting to open.

Click to expand...

"If you wait for the magneto to click, you are past TDC"

He said it was running before and he didn't do anything that could affect timing.

According to "spec" impulse IS to occur @ TDC.

Its called valve overlap . If you changed nothing get number
one on tdc do the loose rocker arms . Roll it over get number
4 on tdc do the loose rocker arms your done