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Wisconsin THD crankshaft threads

K

Kato-nokesswather

New User
I want to run a die over the threads after using a brass hammer on the crank end to remove the flywheel. Anybody know what the thread pitch is? I tried a 1"-14, but it will not start. Then I took a thread pitch gauge, and even tough the 14 pitch was close, it still wasn't correct in my opinion. Would it be Metric?
 
I don't know what the thread pitch is, but seriously doubt it's metric.

Getting rid of the mushroom is the first step. Try some surgical grinding, get
down below the root of the crushed threads. Chances are the nut goes beyond the
first few threads, so losing them will not affect the strength.

What you don't want is to gall the nut forcing it over the bad threads and have
it take out the good threads below.
 
wore out: Current thread standards are called UN for Unified National Standards in which National Fine is 12 TPI. Former standards were called USS for United States Standard in which National Fine was 14 TPI. Therefore older equipment may have 14 thread national fine fasteners.
 
1-14 is the common fine thread. Any fastener house you go into shelf stock in Gr.5 and Gr.8 bolts will be 1-14. 1-12 hardware has to be made or outsourced.
 
I did but it will not go to the bottom of the thread. the threads are not that bad. another mechanic said that those cranks are softer, so I wonder if I "mushroomed" further in. I just want to take my time and not wreck it.

I have photos to share.
 
Well I guess in my 42yrs. of selling bolts and nuts Ive been fooled. Go to your local fastener house and try to buy a 1-12 X Whatever and see what their response is. Just saying!
 
Kato, if you cant chamfer the end to remove the collapsed
threads try the thread files. There are adjustable jaw retreading
tools but are pricey. I used to sell them but depending on your
clearance the file should work.
 
Now I know an aircraft mechanic is trained to have
everything perfect, right on the gnats butt. Here is my
opinion, so you filed it with the thread file but the look
of the very bottom of the thread grooves does not
satisfy you. Put some oil on it, then as a way of limiting
the torque you are applying use a 10 in. groove lock
pliers and attempt to install the nut. If it goes on with
the torque you can apply with those and you are not
gritting your teeth it will be fine. And if once you get
past the damaged threads it will again spin by finger I
then have a double shot of confidence it will be fine.
Do tell what this fine engine is powering? If it is an
airplane I am not going to ride with you in that thing for
sure! ;>) BTW, if you make one more reply you should
be good to post pictures, likely up to this point that
option was blocked. You add them via the ..Choose
files.. button in the lower part of the post or reply
page.
 
The end has a chamfer on it, I did little damage to the end. its just that the "nut" binds when I try and thread it on. Its seems to start, but then binds. I can keep on using a thread file for a bit. time will tell.
 

cvphoto118768.jpg


cvphoto118769.jpg


cvphoto118770.jpg


cvphoto118771.jpg
 
Without a doubt sir, I AM A PROFECTIONIST! I think you need to if your working on an airplane. You kind of don't want them to stop running. My motto is, airplane maintenance should be preventative maintenance. My brother, my brother in-law and I are restoring a Kato-Nokes swather, probably from the 50's my dad had. Built in Mankato, MN I believe. Being the aircraft mechanic, I was tasked with getting the engine going. Dad's engine sat out in the elements since the 70's and was locked up. So we purchased two running engines and I am setting it up like the original. We were hoping to complete it before dad died, but he passed this last Tuesday.
 
That is a pretty clean thread, Id wire wheel it and run a hardened nut over it once you determine the pitch.
 
The UN threadform designator was selected as the first two letters of the word UNified. The Unified threadform was developed jointly by the governments of Canada, Great Britain, and the U S A to be an INTERNATIONAL standard that would overcome the logistical problems encountered during World War II created by the non-interchangeability of the U S and British standard threadforms.

Interestingly, ten years after the Unified threadform was introduced, its basic geometry of the Unified threadform was adopted by the International Standards Organation (ISO) as the ISO Metric threadform. Naturally, the Diameters and Pitches of the ISO Metric threads are dimensioned in millimeters rather than inches.

Some decades later, the ISO accepted the Unified threadform as an ISO Standard threadform, under the name ISO Inch.

It's true that many textbooks and other supposedly-reliable references say that the anti-acronym of the UN threadform designation is Unified National, but the originators of the threadform were specific that their intent was replace national-standard threadforms with one Unified international threadform.
 
Very sorry to hear about your fathers passing, my condolences to you and your family. My Dad passed away unexpectedly after Christmas in 2010 at 75. Normal as can be during the holiday festivities, the Lord apparently said it was his time. He was not rich in this world, but big in heart.
 

Like a grade 8? I think I saw a YouTube video where the cut the threads on a nut perpandictular so if any burrs were formed they could escape. Like a homemade thread chaser.
 
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