Is stabilizer bar on 3 point threaded on both ends?

This is my stabilizer bar on my mf65 & my prior thread some commented that it is threaded on both ends. In the picture, the left side of my bar is not threaded-at least I can only turn a couple three times and locks up. Are all bars threaded on both ends?

(quoted from post at 08:17:15 02/25/22) This is my stabilizer bar on my mf65 & my prior thread some commented that it is threaded on both ends. In the picture, the left side of my bar is not threaded-at least I can only turn a couple three times and locks up. Are all bars threaded on both ends?
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto118599.jpg>

Click to expand...

That is not a stabilizer bar if it is the same one from your previous post. It is a top link, and it should be threaded on both ends, one left and one end right so it works like a turnbuckle. You may have seized up threads and need to get after it with a pipe wrench (or such), penetrating oil, and maybe heat. You could go to a farm supply store and purchase a new one that has a shorter body than that one to have more adjustment range.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 02/25/2022 at 04:25 am.

Thats a toplink. If both ends wont screw in and out get a new one.

One side is right hand threads, the other side is left hand threads. Turn the left side the opposite way of the right side. The left side in the picture needs to be turned out the same distance as the right side.

I agree that it is a top link, but it has been repurposed as a stabilizer. There is no reason for it to not work as a stabilizer, except that even though it was originally threaded at both ends, the threads can be ruined by a combination of threading too far and a heavy side load putting a hard stress on it. I would just get a new one like it.

It is not unusual for them to lock up. If you can't store your tractor inside, then the rainwater runs right down the threads, and they get rusty or galled up. A pipe wrench will probably fix that issue. I've fixed several by using a 36 pipe wrench on them, and I've also broken the eye end off trying to get them to turn. Top links are available at any decent farm supply store in a variety of lengths. I just did a web search and see that Harbor Freight has one for $23. If you get yours free or get a new one, oil the threads and turn it occasionally to make sure it is free, and it should last a lifetime.

If you have an acetylene torch, you can probably break the stuck end loose by heating the body and applying a lot of torque to the end.

NOTE: The two ends are threaded in OPPOSITE directions. If the stuck end has a left-hand thread and you're trying to turn it counter-clockwise, then, well you know...

Yes, that is threaded on both ends. Most are, and that one would be.

Remember it is threaded in reverse on the opposite sides. So you have to spin one side opposite of what your brain is trained to want to do.

You should get it loose and greased up both ends, take both ends out, then start them equally so the same exact amount of thread is showing on each end.

Then you can put it on the tractor and the implement, and use a short rod or sturdy screw driver through the hole in the middle to adjust it longer or shorter.

Paul

It works like any other turnbuckle.

the trick to getting full range is to screw both ends all the way out to where they come apart, then screw each end in one turn!
At that point hold the ends, and adjust length by turning the center section!

the trick to getting full range is to screw both ends all the way out to where they come apart, then screw each end in one turn!
At that point hold the ends, and adjust length by turning the center section!

In your photo of the link on the right hand side there is a threaded plate designed to lock your adjustment in place.

If the link was designed with one end fixed the plate would not be required so yes yours originally would have been threaded on both ends.

Of course it could be seized, bent, welded, rusted, modified......

Looking at your picture, it would seem that the end with the check nut is screwed at least part way out, while the other end appears to be screwed all the way in!

HTH, Dave

To get full range of adjustment, both ends need to be in/out the same amount!

One end screws to the right and the other end screws to the left. If one won't move it is rusted. Try soaking it with penetrating oil or applying some heat. Sometimes you just have to buy a new one.

As others have said, this contraption IS right hand threaded on one end, and LEFT hand threaded on the other end. My first guess would be, you are trying to turn the end (that only turns a couple times) the wrong direction.
Since the end that's giving you trouble appears to be screwed all the way in as far as it can possibly go, I'm thinking this is your problem. The tube is likely only threaded inside 8 or 10 threads (or what ever). Your eyelet was/is screwed in so far that the far end (inside) goes beyond the actual tube threads. So, the eyelet went deep enough into the tube, that it has exposed threads internally of the tube. These threads have been exposed (internally) and likely all rusted up. To help free it up, take threaded eyelet piece entirely out of the other end, stand the top link up with the missing eyelet end up, and dump some penetrating oil of your choice down the middle of top link to the inside rusted threads at the other end. Then place back in vice and continue your efforts to free it up.

Note, that flat piece on the end that you are not having trouble with, just acts as a set nut once this adjustable top link is set on adjustment. It really should be screwed all the way out to the eyelet end when not in use as a set nut for the adjustment.

The flat jamb bar on the unscrewed end is usually regular (right handed) threads. Which means the one you are having trouble with is the left-handed threaded one. steve

That top link looks pretty decent. Just soak it in loosen it up oil as others have said and work it. Don't hurt to have other top links too. I have one on much of my equipment- probably 6 just in category 1.