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Minnesota running gear

K

kRM1976

Member
Trying to get the front spindle out of one of the front tubes. I heated it pounded on it, try spraying JB around it for a few days can't get it to budge. Any ideas?
 
Heres a pic
cvphoto117540.jpg
 
the absolute worst thing you can do is heat something like a spindle and beat on it, the shaft will be mushroomed and you will never get it out.

you have to heat it and move it back and forth which will require lubing it or using wax melted in , once you get it to move freely it then can be heated and driven out.

working it back and forth will loosen the rust, if you get it to twist and move freely you may have to go around the shaft with a flat file and emery cloth to drive it out.
 
It's froze, I was thinking about the wax thing but never tried that. I put a piece of oak over it so I would't mushroom it.
 
old blacksmith advice would be to heat the sleeve piece around the spindle till cherry red hot. pour COLD water over it till it is cold to touch on the sleeve. walk away and let spindle cool it self till COLD. if it doesn't fall out on its own, beat it down using brass drift while using pene spray. FIX GREASE ZERK BEFORE REASSEMBLY!!!
 
The Minnesota running gears i have seen, have a casting, and then the spindle sits horizontal,in the casting, don't think there is a zerk in there, better not be anyway! But i agree heat will expand the casting!
 
I had anAllis running gear do that and had a similar set up with aht spindle coming up through the tube like that. I could not get anything to soak in the crack. I chained the reach to the back of a tractor backed right up tight to the reach then with another tractor started turning the wheels with it hitched to the tongue. As it moved I pried down on the arm for the tierod. IT would very slowly work it's way out. Once out I used emery clothe on the spindle and probed the tube with a scraper. Then drilled a second hole for a grease fitting so that side has 2 fittings. I now grease it once a year whether it needs it or not. Works good for hauling logs or whatever I need. Was under an old self unloading box.
 
(quoted from post at 18:05:32 02/13/22) the absolute worst thing you can do is heat something like a spindle and beat on it, the shaft will be mushroomed and you will never get it out.

you have to heat it and move it back and forth which will require lubing it or using wax melted in , once you get it to move freely it then can be heated and driven out.

working it back and forth will loosen the rust, if you get it to twist and move freely you may have to go around the shaft with a flat file and emery cloth to drive it out.
Click to expand...


el6147, does it look mushroomed to you??? it doesn't to me.
 
I bought a DMI wagon that was froze up and we ended up splitting the tube to get it apart. Cleaned everything up and welded the tube and it has been fine ever since. Tom
 
(quoted from post at 19:58:43 02/13/22) Air hammer works for me. Attach the correct sized pouch. It will be out in a few seconds.
Click to expand...

You say this as if we all know what the correct sized punch is.

I've never seen an air hammer punch that's 1-1/2" diameter, so it must be something smaller. Most sets have a pointy one, a longer pointy one, a straight chisel, a muffler cutter, and sometimes a scraper.

Seems like if I take the pointy one, jam it in the threaded hole, and start hammering, that's going to be counterproductive.

What kind of punch do you use and how do you use it?
 
As someone else on here said, split the axle: cut it vertically with a whiz wheel/die grinder, and drive the spindle out. Then clean it up, lube it, and weld the axle back up. This a fast, easy, effective way; only takes a couple of hours at the very most, and is actually a common repair method. Mark.
 
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