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Craftsman Hydrostatic issues

J

JimS

Member
I was given a 98 Craftsman mower with a 15 1/2 HP Kholer and it says a hydrostatic transmission.

It didn't run but I quickly figured the fuel filter was on backward and there was an air block in the fuel line. Runs great, starts quickly now.

When I put it in gear, it stalls, either forward or reverse. I notice that I am unable to engage the brakes. If I lock the brakes on, I can still push it. When I moved it, I did pull the lever in the back for towing. I might not have released the brake. Regardless, I was able to push it by hand to load it.

My obvious question is, why won't it drive? I removed the back plate and pushed the tow lever forward. It doesn't click into any position and is in a position pretty much in line with the axle. Stated another way, when I move the lever back and forth, it does not have a distinct feel. It feels more like a clutch lever. IS that normal?

What other troubleshooting methods might I try? There doesn't seem to be much online for diagnosing this issue.
 
Get behind the mower and croch down. Look at the vertical plate making up the rear of the tractor. Probably on the right side, may be the left side, you should see a piece of wire bent so that it can be pulled/pushed on. If it is pulled out, it is in the drive disengage position. Push it all the way in and try your mobility test again.
 
Already did that. That is the lever that I am explaining doesn't have a distinct shift to it.
 
I put the mower on jack stands and removed the brake lever. The rear detent pin was easily removed, the front one did not budge (Don't know if that matters.). Regardless, with the brake lever off at the trannie, I can put it in gear and it spins and seems to operate.

This seems to indicate there is something wrong with the brake. I haven't a clue about this braking system. Any ideas?
 
It definitely seems to be a brake issue. On the jack stand, with the brake lever at the transmission removed, I can get it to work but with the lever back on, it responds as originally described.
 
The drive belt may have come off the transmission pulley and gotten jammed between the pulley and fan. Remove the battery from under the seat to check it out. The easiest way to fix this is to remove the pulley nut with an impact wrench.
 
Most of the tow release levers I've seen will hook in a slot in the frame to release the drive, and spring to the drive position when released. It operates a bypass valve inside the hydro unit.

That you were able to push it without sliding the wheels says the brake is released and the tow valve is open. With the tow valve closed, it should lock the rear wheels.

Tying to drive it with the tow valve open will only cause there to be no movement forward or reverse, as if in neutral.

Are you saying when you have the motor running, then move the drive lever forward or backward, the engine is loaded down and killed? And the tractor does not move? But with the wheels off the ground they turn without loading the engine? If so, that sounds like a mechanical failure inside the hydro unit, a failed bearing, failed pump or hyd motor. If there is a drain plug, might drain some oil in a clean glass, look for metal.
 
I dug into my TT without ever having entered one. My problem was immediately obvious. Other than the pain of getting the TA off the mower, working on the inside wasn't a problem. I'd wash the outside good before disassy to keep contaminants out. Model number should be on a tag somewhere on the housing for ordering parts. If its a TT, as I said, deal directly and good folks to help you.

My problem was years ago and as I recall the original fill was 10W-30 motor oil. I do remember getting a notice with my parts that the new recommendation for fluid was 10W-40. My other machines, more powerful and running other brands of pumps specify 20W-50.....so thicker seems to be better in pumps. Course in cold environments they could be sluggish till warmed up.
 
Unfortunately these transmissions were never designed to be serviceable, and most, don't. The shop time to tear into one goes a long way towards a new machine, so that's what most people do.

You might want to check Mustie1 and/or Taryl Fixes All on youtube. There might be a video that will be informative on the design and operation of these transmissions, and for sure I know they have both torn into these transmissions to see what makes them tick, and potentially fix it.
 
Something I discovered on hydro transmissions, some brands label them as non serviceable, but do enough research and possibly another brand, made by the same manufacturer, will have a parts breakdown.

Worked on a Gravely a few years ago, showed it as not serviceable.

Did some research, found Toro used the same platform, parts were available. So common they were even sold on Ebay as aftermarket replacements!
 
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