I have a home buit wood splitter and the Wisconsin motor won't start so I bought a new 7hp motor. The motor is connected to pump by 2 vbelts. The motor starts and runs fine if belts are not connected but won't start if connected. I was told can't get parts for Wisconsin motor.
- Thread starter d52turner
- Start date
Eagle Beagle
Member
Get two belts larger than you have and make an idler pully that has a spring to move the pully up to the belts. A short handle on the idler
pully arm will allow you to release the tension on the belts while you start the engine with your other arm.
Beagle
pully arm will allow you to release the tension on the belts while you start the engine with your other arm.
Beagle
Does the pump turn over easy not connected to the engine? If it doesn't, maybe the pump is the problem or the controls aren't set right to release the
load. I have solved a similar problem on an air compressor that I have by using a v belt centrifical clutch. In your case you would need a dual belt
clutch. These clutches allow a startup at low rpm and engage at a high rpm. Not a cheap solution but it works. Or if you could rig up something that
would tighten the belts. I think your problem is more on the pump/load side. I've only seen a few splitters with a clutch system.
load. I have solved a similar problem on an air compressor that I have by using a v belt centrifical clutch. In your case you would need a dual belt
clutch. These clutches allow a startup at low rpm and engage at a high rpm. Not a cheap solution but it works. Or if you could rig up something that
would tighten the belts. I think your problem is more on the pump/load side. I've only seen a few splitters with a clutch system.
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
A properly designed and working hydraulic system will have very little load on the pump when not calling for movement.
If the pump is staying loaded all the time, something is wrong.
If the pump is staying loaded all the time, something is wrong.
If the new motor is a Honda clone, they dont start well
cold with a load on them. The compression release
doesnt let it make enough power to get around to the
next power cycle and keep running.
I have a similar engine on a two stage splitter pump
powering a trailer. I ended up putting a go cart clutch
between the engine and the pump. Engine can start at
idle the automatically engages as rpm is turned up.
Belt tensioner is the simplest idea, but my pump cant
take side load of belts.
cold with a load on them. The compression release
doesnt let it make enough power to get around to the
next power cycle and keep running.
I have a similar engine on a two stage splitter pump
powering a trailer. I ended up putting a go cart clutch
between the engine and the pump. Engine can start at
idle the automatically engages as rpm is turned up.
Belt tensioner is the simplest idea, but my pump cant
take side load of belts.
wore out
Well-known Member
What Wisconsin parts did you need, even though the company is gone there LOTS of parts out there.
https://www.m-and-d.com/Wisconsin-Engine-Parts.html
https://www.pittauto.com/default.as...ustomer/piauel/customerpages/pl_wisconsin.htm
Two sources.
Loosehandle
Well-known Member
- Location
- Wisconsin
If you have belts get longer ones and
rig a tighter so no load while
starting. You can get parts for
Wisconsin, I have a AEN on a splitter
wouldn't trade it for anything
manufactured today.
rig a tighter so no load while
starting. You can get parts for
Wisconsin, I have a AEN on a splitter
wouldn't trade it for anything
manufactured today.
Brian G. NY
Well-known Member
In my experience, in very cold weather, the pump will turn hard by virtue of the increased viscosity of the oil even when valve is open.
I have also found that using ATF rather than hydraulic oil helps to alleviate this problem to some extent. At 2 degrees today, I won't even attempt to start my splitter. LOL
crsutton81
Member
I'll have to agree with Brian. We
have a hydraulic powered baler that
will not start on any other fluid in
cool weather other than the old 303
hydraulic fluid. ATF would be
better. I tried using regular Hy-
Tran in it once, but it's too thick
for the 5hp electric motor to get
going with cold fluid. I did install a >hot water heater element in the
suction side of the tank going to the pump and that helps a lot if I can remember to turn it on ahead of time to warm up the oil when using a thick based oil. This is on a 2 stage hydraulic pump.
have a hydraulic powered baler that
will not start on any other fluid in
cool weather other than the old 303
hydraulic fluid. ATF would be
better. I tried using regular Hy-
Tran in it once, but it's too thick
for the 5hp electric motor to get
going with cold fluid. I did install a >hot water heater element in the
suction side of the tank going to the pump and that helps a lot if I can remember to turn it on ahead of time to warm up the oil when using a thick based oil. This is on a 2 stage hydraulic pump.
BillinCentralMO
Well-known Member
I use a magnetic block heater to warm up the small engine and then I start it. Got the idea from watching
Rusty6s videos in Saskatchewan. Got it from Carquest for $99.
Rusty6s videos in Saskatchewan. Got it from Carquest for $99.
Eagle Beagle
Member
Hey guys, don't overthink this. All he needs is some type of clutch so the engine can get above starting RPM.
Who here has a truck auger that the engine slides in one direction to tighten the belts? Put corn in that auger and try pulling the starter
rope with tight belts.
Who here has a truck auger that the engine slides in one direction to tighten the belts? Put corn in that auger and try pulling the starter
rope with tight belts.
Fritz Maurer
Well-known Member
You are correct. One of the best 9hp class out there. Its a shame what happened to them. But they cost so cussed much to fix! (Major overhauls I mean). I have a ACN that I can start by grabbing the rope sheave by hand.
crsutton81
Member
Another thought...I had something
happen to the pressure relief valve
on mine once. It got some foreign
matter in it where it would not open
enough to let cold fluid pass
through and lower the pressure on
start up. I replaced it and that
cured the problem for that time. You
should have a relief valve somewhere
in the system. Probably would be in
the control valve.
<img
src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto113745.jpg>
happen to the pressure relief valve
on mine once. It got some foreign
matter in it where it would not open
enough to let cold fluid pass
through and lower the pressure on
start up. I replaced it and that
cured the problem for that time. You
should have a relief valve somewhere
in the system. Probably would be in
the control valve.
<img
src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto113745.jpg>
Traditional Farmer
Well-known Member
- Location
- Virginia
My spitter with the Honda motor will start right up on the 1st pull and and full choke no matter how cold.With open center hydraulics and the valve in the neutral position should be almost no resistance.Using Premium hydraulic fluid from TSC.
caterpillar guy
Well-known Member
Dump the pump and engine.Hook to tractor hydraulics and go to work. Dad runs his that way works good and moves with the tractor.
This is what I use to start a lot of things, lawnmower, honda motor on air compressor, generator, and chainsaw. Kinda spendy, but sure works good!
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