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John Deere 2010 HELP

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rubicon1234

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It's a positive ground gas engine. Previous owner connected the battery wrong and melted bunch of stuff. I made a new harness as per schematic provided by a local dealership. New generator, starter, battery and voltage regulator. Everything works fine but I noticed that the ceramic resistor behind the ignition switch starts smoking when the key is in the "on" position. It gets hot when the tractor is running but not to the point of smoking. Is the switch bad? Not exactly sure what that resistor is for, my guess it drops the voltage to the coil once the engine is running. Any ideas?
 
It's normal for a resistor to get hot.

Leaving the ignition on not running will really heat it up, and overheat the coil.
Not good to do that! The coil can get hot enough to burst the can!

If the resistor has grease or paint on it, it will smoke until it all burns off.
Be sure there are no wires touching it.

As long as it runs well, and the points last, it must be right.
 
The ignition should draw about 3 to just over 4 amps when not running and points closed. As noted, don't leave the ignition on not
running. Coils and resistor system switch on for 50% of the time and off for 50% thus cooling 1/2 the time. Continuous on is for
sure overheating it. Jim
 
What does the resistor connect to? That's what you need to find out.

It should connect from the key switch to the coil, nothing else. If you have it hooked up to anything else you have the tractor wired wrong.

"I have it wired right, but it's smoking." Respectfully, if it's smoking, you don't have it wired right.
 
Even with just the coil hooked to the resistor. With the key left on and the points closed, ignition current flows through it. The resistor may smoke as dust and any residue that may have gotten on it are heated, resistance makes heat.
 
Ill check wiring again. No fuses. It does have a resistor mounted under steering wheel. Its not in the schematic as well, maybe this was an issue in the past.
 
You have to make five or more posts before you can post pictures. It has to do with the scammer protection on this site. You should be close to having enough posts now to be able to post a picture.

I have never been into the electricals of a 2010 so take my words with a grain of salt. The predecessor of the 10 series new gens was of course the two bangers. The 20 and 30 series gas two bangers had a resistor before the coil. They also had a resistor behind the dash to dim the lights when the light switch is put in the dim position. Why they wanted to make dim lights even dimmer is beyond me but that is what they did. The light dimmer resistor is not ceramic like the ignition resistor. Could the resistor by your steering column be a headlight resistor like the two bangers or maybe like you suspect it is an old ignition resistor that was abandoned.
 
(quoted from post at 19:30:58 12/06/21) It's a positive ground gas engine. Previous owner connected the battery wrong and melted bunch of stuff. I made a new harness as per schematic provided by a local dealership. New generator, starter, battery and voltage regulator. Everything works fine but I noticed that the ceramic resistor behind the ignition switch starts smoking when the key is in the "on" position. It gets hot when the tractor is running but not to the point of smoking. Is the switch bad? Not exactly sure what that resistor is for, my guess it drops the voltage to the coil once the engine is running. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

xOvlNpY.jpg


The parts catalog shows a primary ignition resistor for all gasoline and LP gas models.

As others have said, they DO get hot in normal operation and if there's any oil or debris on them from sitting unused they will smoke when put back into service.
 
Both the ignition switch and light switch have resistors in the back of them. I also have that diagram, it does not show a resistor on the switch its self. Also I asked a local dealer for a schematic that shows the resistor. They were not able to help me. Typically the resistor is between switch and coil? The resistor I found mounted under the column I left out because schematic did not show it. Im tempted to wire it in between switch and coil.
 
(quoted from post at 11:18:43 12/07/21) Both the ignition switch and light switch have resistors in the back of them. I also have that diagram, it does not show a resistor on the switch its self. Also I asked a local dealer for a schematic that shows the resistor. They were not able to help me. Typically the resistor is between switch and coil? The resistor I found mounted under the column I left out because schematic did not show it. Im tempted to wire it in between switch and coil.
Click to expand...

Do you have a photo of the back of the ignition switch and a part number for it?

Looking at some older info, it seems the original switch had the resistor as part of it, when replacement was needed the little harness shown in the drawing I posted and an updated ignition switch were subbed in, current part number for the switch is AT21567 and it does not appear to have an attached resistor.
 
It appears there is a serial number break on the ignition switches. Serial number 055380 and before uses switch AR26528 (subs to AR30278) which has the resistor for the ignition made on the back of the switch. Serial number 055381 and after used AT21567 ignition switch and the ceramic ballast resistor AA5791R as in the picture wore out posted. So, if your switch has the ballast resistor mounted on the switch you don't need the separate ceramic ballast resistor. If there is no resistor on your switch you need the separate ceramic ballast resistor. A resistor is needed with a "6 volt" coil. If a coil made for use on a 12-volt system (usually marked no external resistor required) replaces the original 6 volt coil, the resistor would need to be eliminated for either system. The schematic may not show the resistor if it is made on the switch. They may have thought it was not needed to be shown if the proper switch was used and the wire to the coil was connected to the ignition terminal of the switch.

The switch you have in your picture appears to be the AR26528 which does not need the ceramic resistor shown in your other picture.
 
Thank you Jim. So its wired right. I was right to leave out the other resistor. The smoke must of been residue on the resistor and I should not leave the ignition in the on position. :)
 
(quoted from post at 20:12:29 12/07/21) Thank you Jim. So its wired right. I was right to leave out the other resistor. The smoke must of been residue on the resistor and I should not leave the ignition in the on position. :)
Click to expand...

Correct, don't leave the ignition switch on when the engine is not running.
 
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