(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

U-make-it ROPS

D

docmirror

Well-known Member
I'm going to be working on grades soon, and using the PTO. I didn't find a ROPS for my unit, but one shop said they would make if for $1200.

So - I bought some steel and got out the sparky and away we go. I got the real thick wall 2" square stuff. Heavy but worth it.

mvphoto85515.jpg
 
you really need to run the numbers on the overturning stresses involved to size the steel accordingly--of very importance is the design of the attachments
 
That'll fold like a bad hand in a high
stakes poker game.Might be able to get one
off a Ford 2600/3600.Rear axle might be the same or close to it.
 
i would say full fenders are just as important as ROP'S. going over with those wheels turning u will be sucked right in without a seat belt.
thats not for me, its pretty light!
 
IMHO you need to put an X between your up rights all the way from the bottom to the top cross member
 
I admire your wanting to protect yourself ! There have been a
few times when I was skidding logs up a hill where I wished I
had a rops. That being said, and Im not poo pooing your
effort, but that is still no where near strong enough in my
opinion for roll over protection. Is this the pot calling the kettle
black because I dont even have anything ? Yes. But as good
as yours is intended Im not sure it would do much in a roll
over.
 
I don't want to ruin your day but if you think that will help save your life in a rollover you are DEAD wrong. That isn't even remotely strong enough. I know there are some people that will say anything is better than nothing. I worked volunteer fire and rescue for years and helped remove the body of a guy that got pinned & crushed by something similar to what you have just made. I feel to this day had he not had his home made rollover frame that he would be alive today. I don't mean to beat you up or be to harsh but I have seen first hand how good intentions can go deadly wrong. Please rethink what you are doing.
 
The ROPS on my 2900 lb Kubota is made of 1-1/2 x 3 tube, mandrel bent in the corners. Wall stock is about 1/4.

Manual says (paraphrased): When the ROPS is up.....wear a seat belt. ROPS down, no seat belt. With a ROPS, if you
don't stay in your seat, you run the risk of being crushed by the ROPS itself. When the ROPS is down, you don't want to
be strapped to the seat, as crushing is almost a given. Your best hope is being thrown from the tractor.

A lot of the strength of the ROPS is needed as the tractor rolls from being upright, to upside down. Holding a tractor
upside down doesn't take too much structure.

Wander past a tractor store and compare those ROPS with a similar tractor in size & weight.

I'd will be wary on hills with your rig.
 

Sorry to rain on your good intentions .
The ROPS needs larger frame members , more bracing and mounting to the axle that wont shear off .
 
Just - wow. Some of you picture engineers. I get a good laugh, and thanks for that. Like I didn't get the shear and bending moments of the materials before I started.

I guess, if I get it up to 40MPH, yeah, it might bend - some.

Good point about the fenders though. I have very little space between the load arms and the tires, but I can move the tires out. I'll shop for some fenders.

Keep up the commentary, it's freaking hilarious.
 
Tie a chain to the top cross piece on the end and pull sideways on it by jerking from a 3 foot slack. If it bends sdeways it is
too weak. do the same from the rear and front. Noble, but not triangulated. Jim
 
Yes I agree with that as the test. We did a similar test in the shop when adding a safety chain on a top drive unit. Had to release the grabber which was like a 1000 lbs. and make sure that the slings and shackles and eyes all held the load from the drop. Then the engineers okd it. After about 6 drops. Then replaced the shock loaded slings with new ones again. This homemade unit is not even close to passing !plus it should have been schedule 80 pipe with round corners. Those pieces sticking out like that is never seen on roll over stuff. Maybe its for jamming into the ground as a brake . No engineer would pass that. And if you were a contractor that would definitely hAve to be engineered.
 
Would the one made at the shop you asked be
OSHA approved and tested for your
tractor...probably not. If it is intended
for safety in a rollover it should be the
correct one for the machine. Life or death
is no laughing matter, I'm sure we all know
that when it comes to machinery. Basically
you have a frame for an umbrella. I hope you
take everyone's comments for your safety
seriously.
 
I hate to say it but the iron everybody wants you to use would end up weighing more than the tractor when done. It's only a light little Ford of about 3000LBS. I would attach the verticals to something better though with a gusset in the bottom corner for stiffness. As for the ends sticking out my brothers 2940 has ends sticking out a wee bit like you have. I can not say if it is original or not since he bought it used and was there when he got it. You are not likely to tip it over unless the bucket is up pretty high and that will keep it from rolling over completely upside down. As for weight and size of iron they need to look at some of those old Stiegers the roll frame in those cabs must have been just for looks. I doubt if any of them would have held up under one of them rolling upside down. Those weight a good 10 times what you have. Jim is probably right about the jerking with a chain for a test though what you use to jerk the chain would have a lot to do with the durability of the frame. Say jerk with a pickup or other tractor would probably tip the tractor over anyway.
 
What the others have said - it is too
lightly built.
Should have been 3x5 1/4in rectangular
tubing. Plates where it attaches to the
axles should be heavier. Uprights should be
attached to the plates with 100%
penetration welds. How's your welding
skills?
I admire a DIY kind of guy but can not
approve that.
How much ballast do you have on/in your
tires? A well ballasted tractor is a more
stable platform. Makes the need for rops
less likely.
 
The weight saved by making it about 2' shorter, losing the top bar ends that stick out and making the angled braces at the top much smaller would have 'paid' for the increased weight of 3x5 tubing for the uprights.
 
The good news is that very few tractor
roll overs actually occur, and I doubt it
will be more dangerous than none. So from
hat perspective ot is a success.
 
Some info that might help someone.

This one will take you to the NIOSH site with some designed and approved ROPS plans for a few tractors. (This doesn't want to link so, copy and paste in a browser)

www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/aginjury/crops/default.html

Here is a national plan to help pay for adding ROPS that may apply in some locations.
https://www.ropsr4u.org/
 

Yrs ago I installed many JD Roll-Gards & I can guarantee that JD Roll-Gards are constructed from a lot heavier materials than docmirror's frame.
 
I'm not sure it's possible to build a
rops that would hold that old Ford. The
weakest link will be the mount. Don't
know where everyone is getting this big
thick tubing. Bigger yes but I haven't
seen a rops over 3/16 thick and most of
them are more like 1/8. No idea whether
the bigger,thinner tubing would be
stronger but I don't trust most factory
rops either.
 

What were you expecting, docmirror? An attaboy? A line of people waving money at you to make them one? The responders are saying what they are saying because they care about your safety. It is up to you

I think Janichalsons suggestion on how to test it is a good one. You should be able to pull on the topmost point of that frame and lift the wheels off the ground. Anything less than a rock solid frame that doesnt flex in any way will save you from a roll over.

First thing I would have done was using heavier steel. Maybe not much heavier, considering how small a tractor you have.
Second thing is to make it shorter and narrower. That may sound counter intuitive, but a shorter frame will be less likely to collapse as it rolls. Maybe the suggestion of mounting an X inside the frame will help with that.

Not everyone is trolling you. Most want to help you survive a rollover.
 
(quoted from post at 09:32:33 12/07/21)
What were you expecting, docmirror? An attaboy? A line of people waving money at you to make them one? The responders are saying what they are saying because they care about your safety. It is up to you

I think Janichalsons suggestion on how to test it is a good one. You should be able to pull on the topmost point of that frame and lift the wheels off the ground. Anything less than a rock solid frame that doesnt flex in any way will save you from a roll over.

First thing I would have done was using heavier steel. Maybe not much heavier, considering how small a tractor you have.
Second thing is to make it shorter and narrower. That may sound counter intuitive, but a shorter frame will be less likely to collapse as it rolls. Maybe the suggestion of mounting an X inside the frame will help with that.

Not everyone is trolling you. Most want to help you survive a rollover.
Click to expand...

Agree, the criticism is out of concern, not meanness. If you're happy with it, fine. But there are some pretty smart cookies here trying to help.
 
Larger with thinner walls is much better here, 3x3x3/16 or 3x4x3/16 would have been much better. The general rule of thumb I if 3/16 isn't enough go bigger rather than thicker. That's not always true or appropriate, but most times it is best. In this case 4x4x1/8 would be much stronger than 2x2x1/4.
 
(quoted from post at 23:10:25 12/06/21) Just - wow. Some of you picture engineers. I get a good laugh, and thanks for that. Like I didn't get the shear and bending moments of the materials before I started.

I guess, if I get it up to 40MPH, yeah, it might bend - some.

Good point about the fenders though. I have very little space between the load arms and the tires, but I can move the tires out. I'll shop for some fenders.

Keep up the commentary, it's freaking hilarious.
Click to expand...

Sad to read that you find the well meaning comments regarding the safety of what you built hilarious.

You posted the outcome of your engineering and fabrication skills, like many others I don't know you from Adam but we fundamentally still care enough to reply and point out our concerns.

For comparison here is a photo of a JD 401 similar size to your machine.

Manufacturers are not known to spend a nickel more than they have to when making a product so you could say the ROPS on the tractor in this photo was built with money savings in mind.

You can make your own assumptions when comparing it to what you have built.


mvphoto85525.jpg
 
The lucky horse shoes will save it.

I assume with the top part flared out like that you are making a sun shade.

It will be nice for that.

Paul
 
(quoted from post at 06:30:36 12/07/21)
(quoted from post at 23:10:25 12/06/21) Just - wow. Some of you picture engineers. I get a good laugh, and thanks for that. Like I didn't get the shear and bending moments of the materials before I started.

I guess, if I get it up to 40MPH, yeah, it might bend - some.

Good point about the fenders though. I have very little space between the load arms and the tires, but I can move the tires out. I'll shop for some fenders.

Keep up the commentary, it's freaking hilarious.
Click to expand...

Sad to read that you find the well meaning comments regarding the safety of what you built hilarious.

You posted the outcome of your engineering and fabrication skills, like many others I don't know you from Adam but we fundamentally still care enough to reply and point out our concerns.

For comparison here is a photo of a JD 401 similar size to your machine.

Manufacturers are not known to spend a nickel more than they have to when making a product so you could say the ROPS on the tractor in this photo was built with money savings in mind.

You can make your own assumptions when comparing it to what you have built.


mvphoto85525.jpg
Click to expand...

I like that one. Incorporates a roll bar turned sideways on each side. Should work pretty well, if the tractor does the pitch-pole. Most rollovers I presume are to the side, but I see the roof would provide some stiffness. The stamped steel ROPS I looked at in the catalog were about 11Ga, although most of them were 3" sq or round. Thankfully, the torsion and modulus compared to .250 wall 2" is pretty close. Natch, because it's a small xsection, the 2' sq does look less rigid, but the eng specs tell the story.

The only thing I might add at this point is a cross brace from top left, to lower right, as it's welded to the uprights for the loader. They are bolted to the axle with four 3/4 bolts each side. I might test it with a cable and lift it sideways off the ground, take some measurements and see if there's any deflection, but I'm sure it'll stay rigid. Not going to rollover test it, as I need the tractor.
 

I agree with the previous posters who suggested a function and safety test. Via pulling fore, aft and to the sides from the top of the ROPS . Until the tires on the opposite side are raised off the ground. .
Better to know the truth than to live in hope and/or denial.
 
(quoted from post at 12:39:16 12/07/21)
I agree with the previous posters who suggested a function and safety test. Via pulling fore, aft and to the sides from the top of the ROPS . Until the tires on the opposite side are raised off the ground. .
Better to know the truth than to live in hope and/or denial.
Click to expand...

Hoping to get down and do that later this week. If I get to it, will report the findings. I have a 4x4 truck so should be able to lift side and back using a long chain. This is a good excuse for me to buy a winch.
 
(quoted from post at 16:54:39 12/07/21)
(quoted from post at 12:39:16 12/07/21)
I agree with the previous posters who suggested a function and safety test. Via pulling fore, aft and to the sides from the top of the ROPS . Until the tires on the opposite side are raised off the ground. .
Better to know the truth than to live in hope and/or denial.
Click to expand...

Hoping to get down and do that later this week. If I get to it, will report the findings. I have a 4x4 truck so should be able to lift side and back using a long chain. This is a good excuse for me to buy a winch.
Click to expand...

Does a gentle pull until one tire comes off the ground really replicate even a gentle tip over and impacting the ground???
 
you dont need a winch...JIM just told u how to test it!!! lead a horse to water dont mean he will drink. there is no babying stuff when you
test stuff. test it properly, even when it is built properly. when a tractor rolls over it, its usually not gently. you have to simulate what
can and would happen. get good info and then add your micky mouse testing. my my my.
 
the standard in design for impact is to use 50% of the dead load--on bridges for vehicles stopping is to use 30% for longitude force addition
 
The challenge with ROPS on old tractors is that the connection between the ROPS and rear axle housing is the weak point. The axle casting itself can break if the tractor flips on its back, allowing the engine and front end to crush the driver. This is one reason why ROPS are not currently available for the Farmall H line of tractors: the axle is the weak link.

Maybe you have a good design, maybe not. It is hard to judge based on a single photo. However, even the best designed ROPS for such a tractor may be in vain if the tractor chassis is not strong enough. Commercial ROPS are tested to destruction using sacrificial tractors for this reason. No one I know has that kind of money to do that on your own.
 
(quoted from post at 16:10:09 12/07/21)
(quoted from post at 16:54:39 12/07/21)
(quoted from post at 12:39:16 12/07/21)
I agree with the previous posters who suggested a function and safety test. Via pulling fore, aft and to the sides from the top of the ROPS . Until the tires on the opposite side are raised off the ground. .
Better to know the truth than to live in hope and/or denial.
Click to expand...

Hoping to get down and do that later this week. If I get to it, will report the findings. I have a 4x4 truck so should be able to lift side and back using a long chain. This is a good excuse for me to buy a winch.
Click to expand...

Does a gentle pull until one tire comes off the ground really replicate even a gentle tip over and impacting the ground???
Click to expand...

It doesn't, but even this 10% this test will fold the rops like a pretzel.
 
Yikes!! Wouldn't bet your life on it. But
hey, if you're sure, roll it down a hill
and see what happens.
 
I won't comment on the homemade ROPS, but will say depending on the grade, that you consider short wide turf tires and wheels. I mow in the summer at a golf course for fun. It's a lot different using a 2wd tractor on a steep grade than a 4wd tractor on the same slope. You'll need a lot of grip not to slide on that rear axle. I mowed with an MF-20 2wd and it was too much of a pucker factor for me. The first time I mowed on a steep slope I broke loose, but since I had the low, wide turf tires I slid down the hill. The boss said that's why they had the turf tires. I never want to experience that again. Getting too old for that type of thrill.
 
Respectfully, turf tires are not a good idea. The tractor will slide down the slope like skis on snow if the grass is a little bit wet. It would be a great way to test the ROPS.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

W
Addition to quick fix: Not to steal Tgrashers post;
Replies
0
Views
389
Wheat47
W
R
Another D14 story long..ish and a question about belt pulleys...
Replies
0
Views
207
rasman57
R
jon f mn
More progress on 830 com
Replies
3
Views
378
jon f mn
jon f mn
Momo Taro
Let's fix this DB 885
2
Replies
32
Views
1K
Momo Taro
Momo Taro
R
Sea Foam
2 3
Replies
45
Views
2K
wp6529
W
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top