Riveting on new brake band linings ....

Crazy Horse

Well-known Member
Just finished up a little job riveting new 3/16 x 1 3/4 x 10 inch woven linings on the 2 brake bands from our club's Massey Harris 101 Junior. The rivets were the hollow end type. I watched a number of videos and pretty much all of them showed relining shoes (2 per side) and not a pair of linings on a single circular band. The videos all showed a guy using a rivet punch with a hammer and an extra set of hands to keep things in place while doing it.

Because the circular band restricted a good hammer blow directly from above, I made up a rivet clincher which bolted up to my bench vise. Photos below explain how it works. In the last photo, you can still see a pair of small bolts and nuts which initially positioned the band in place ..... they were finally removed before the last rivets were squeezed. This part was easy, the trickiest part was making sure your 3/16 inch rivet holes in the lining were in exactly the right place and then countersinking the linings to the correct depth for the rivet heads.
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(quoted from post at 17:27:20 12/04/21) Great idea,looks well thought out.

I agree, simple, yet appears that it would work exceedingly well.
Certainly plenty of power.

I printed a picture for future reference.
Thank you.
 
I would have clamped the upset driver in a vise and set the rivet from the outside.

Most rivets are driven from the head.

This post was edited by Ozlander on 12/04/2021 at 09:23 am.
 
Ozzie ..... I guess it doesn't matter much really, up/down, in/out, top/bottom, left or right ...... same end result I'd say. Here's a video clip below of a pro doing it with a hydraulic unit, he's doing it from the same side I did (see the last half of the video where he sets the rivets). He seems to know what he's doing. I forgot to read the comments below the video, maybe somebody told him he was doing it different than most others would, not sure.
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That's a work of art.

I have beat thousands in with a punch in a vice to set the rivet head on and roll them with a ball peen hammer. None ever failed that I know of.

Early in my career shop owners would not spend money on the correct tools you did it the way they first did it. I have a brake rivet machine tho its a rare event to need it I GOT it... : )

In todays world a lawyer would eat you alive for that crude work.

This post was edited by Hobo,NC on 12/04/2021 at 10:06 am.
 
Nice use of a vice.
I gave my son this vice. He uses it to press out broken axe handles.
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The vice is better to take apart before moving.
It weigh 175 pounds.
 
Great idea! I may have to rig up something like that. I use a rool pin punch to do pads on deere wet brakes. I an definitely saving the pics for a winter project.
 
Hi MHNut, you had bought the MH25 from my friend near Fort Saskatchewan a while back right? How is that project going? Or was it just for backup parts from another one you already had?
 
(quoted from post at 18:22:29 12/04/21)
Most rivets are driven from the head.

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I'm confused....I suppose some rivets may be driven into the hole but I always thought they were "peened" or "spun" on the other end.
 
Hi Crazy Horse. I needed that 25 for a restoration project I have been working on. I'm restoring my great uncles red styled massey harris 25 that he bought new in 1938. In particular I needed the rear wheels off of it. They where in great shape. I have all the mechanical resto done. Tractor runs great now. Waiting for my local body shop to get the wheels painted (should be this week) then I'll run it some this coming summer to weed out any other problems mechanically and then do the rest of the cosmetic resto next winter hopefully.Thanks for the interest.
 
(quoted from post at 10:25:50 12/05/21)
(quoted from post at 18:22:29 12/04/21)
Most rivets are driven from the head.

__________________________________________________________

I'm confused....I suppose some rivets may be driven into the hole but I always thought they were "peened" or "spun" on the other end.

I worked for Boeing and Beech aircraft for many years. Seen a lot of rivets driven.
 
So Ozzie, you now mention mention your experience with aircraft industry riveting of surface-level or domed head solid-ended rivets on a metal airplane frame or skin. Hmmm, certainly a different situation altogether than riveting on molded or woven brake liners with a below-surface countersunk head (not level with the surface) and a hollow-ended rivet (instead of a solid-ended one). I'm sure you've seen countless aircraft rivets of this type being done, but how many brake shoe linings have you seen done at a professional brake shop? I suspect about as many as I have ..... none.
 

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