MF 165 crankshaft bearing replacement

Massey_165 · Nov 28, 2021

Ive got a MF 165 diesel, I currently have it split replacing the rear main seal. Ive been loosing oil pressure when it gets warmed up also, will probably replace crankshaft and rod bearings. Will I need to keep the rear main seal housing off in order to replace the crankshaft bearings? And can I replace them just by removing the oil pan? Any advice would be great! Thanks.

rustred · Nov 28, 2021

loosing oil pressure once warmed up is also associated with camshaft bushings. what psi are you starting with cold and when hot?

John Deere D · Nov 28, 2021

Quote:

Will I need to keep the rear main seal housing off in order to replace the crankshaft bearings? And can I replace them just by removing the oil pan? Any advice would be great! Thanks.

Your $$$$'s Sir.....

I have always removed the crankshaft, and with an OUTSIDE Micrometer verify the condition of the crankshaft Journals. Tapper on Journals?? are Journal oval...? are Journals already undersize???
Then I would use Plastigage to verify that you were sold the proper Bearing shells.
Respectfully:
Bob..

Steve@Advance · Nov 28, 2021

A leaking rear main is often a symptom of other problems.

Combining the leak with loss of oil pressure says there probably are some bearing clearance problems.

Worn rings will also contribute by pressurizing the crankcase.

Taking short cuts on a diesel rarely works. They are not as forgiving as a gas engine. Proceed with caution, a dollar saved now can greatly multiply to an expensive fix later!

Dieseltech · Nov 28, 2021

Worn main bearings will cause the rear rope type main to leak, as crankshaft is not centered anymore. Loose main and rod bearings will cause low oil pressure when hot, not worn cam bearings as cam rides directly in block bore. Be careful working on any diesel, repairing it half a$$ means doing it over..

Massey_165 · Nov 28, 2021

Around 50 psi when it starts and runs, after warmed up it drops to zero as soon as I idle it.

Massey_165 · Nov 28, 2021

Will I need to split the front of the tractor to in order to get the crankshaft out? I have the middle split right now.

Massey_165 · Nov 28, 2021

The oil pressure would drop to zero after it was warmed up and I idled it, I hogged for two hours and the oil pressure would be fine until the rpms were dropped. Should I look at anything else besides crankshaft and Rod bearings? Trying to figure out how to get the crankshaft out, right now the oil pan is sitting on a block, would I need to split the front also?

RBnWA · Nov 28, 2021

Main bearings can be changed without pulling crank. I loosen all main bolts a bit. Do one bearing at a time. Roll the top one out and roll the new one in. RB

rustred · Nov 28, 2021

the engine has to come out. then u flip it upside down on an engine stand or bench and go to work removing the crank. you wont be removing or installing a crank from the bottom. plus u will most likely removing pistons also to check those also and the rings. like wahts the engine story here? hrs? this is not a cheap engine job. so if your not up to fix it properly use 15-40 oil and dont idle it. plus what oil are u using now? but sure you can roll new brg's in but u need to be having a close look at the old ones first and the crank might be egged anyhow. then the oil pump also dont forget.

used red MN · Nov 28, 2021

I do not know if the engine will have to come away from the front assembly. You will have to get the front pulley off and the front timing gear cover to remove the crankshaft. I am
surprised no one has recommended that you get a manual. The link shows the 165 tractor repair manual available through YT. If you are okay with a downloadable repair manual go to the Farm manuals fast site, search Massey 165. They have a good discount going right now, to me those are every bit as good as a hard copy and you can print any pages to get in hand reference.
YT MF 165 manuals

rustred · Nov 28, 2021

May I ask , have u rolled brgs in before on an engine ?

Dieseltech · Nov 28, 2021

Engine MUST be removed, front pulley and cover assembly, clutch, flywheel, rear seal holder removed before crank can be removed from block.

RBnWA · Nov 28, 2021

rustred if your asking me yes sir. Have done all inframes that way. RB

caterpillar guy · Nov 29, 2021

Lots of good ideas/advice here. Though you could look at rolling in the new bearings and a new oil pump and probably fix your oil pressure problem for a while.How long that while will be is anybodies guess. If you are looking at a set of sleeves and all this summer. I would try to get a better look at the journals measuring would be a good idea this would tell the wear and roundness of them. IF not worn nor out of round then you could put the new bearings in now and then sleeve it this summer with little lost work or money. If out of round or worn severely then it would be best to do it all together at one time. For the purpose of tightening up the clearance on the bearings if not worn bad you could put shim stock behind the shells to squeeze tighter though this will be poo pooed by most here. At a .001 it woud not have to go all the way to the end of the shell and would close it up that much. If you decide to do this put in one at a time and give one complete revolution to make sure it will turn then do the next one. This will tell you if one is to tight or to out of round to turn. This will be mostly on the rods.

Massey_165 · Nov 29, 2021

When I got the tractor it hadnt ran for 7 years, it was running when parked. It has around 3200 miles on it, not sure if it has be rebuilt before. And Im using 15w40 right now. I put about 2 hours on it before the oil pressure started dropping.

Massey_165 · Nov 29, 2021

I may try to roll them in then and see if that will fix my oil pressure problem for now. I dont know a lot about rebuilding these or changing the bearings. Right now Im struggling with how to stabilize the front half of the tractor to take the oil pan off, right now the oil pan is sitting on a block hold up the front half. And how would I determine what size bearings and thrust washers to use?

John Deere D · Nov 29, 2021

Quote:
And how would I determine what size bearings and thrust washers to use?

As per pictures for Journals.

Bob...

John Deere D · Nov 30, 2021

Quote:
....and what thrust washers to use?

(1) Purchase a SERVICE MANUAL.

Note picture...Dial indicator indicates THRUST clearance on Crankshaft...

Verify in service manual the Specifications for the crankshaft thrust.

With a 0>1 Micrometre check thickness of PRESENT Thrust washers that are installed on crankshaft.
Order Thrust washers proper thickness to reduce Crankshaft Thrust to within specifications.

With all due respect, the engine in your Tractor was engineered to specific operating Diesel Engine tolerances and shall never last if not assembled as to the engineered specifications.

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rustred · Nov 30, 2021

no, i was asking Massey 165. appears to me like this is his first engine work or the brgs. anyhow.

rustred · Nov 30, 2021

keep an eye on that idle ,... might need to keep it in the 1000-1200 rpm range to prevent more engine damage. definitly dont slow idle it! until you are ready to shut it down. plus you did not say what is the pressure when warmed up and working. if you have say 30 psi just keep using it and watch your oil guage.!

Massey_165 · Dec 2, 2021

Yeah it is my first time doing any work with an engine, I havent worked on tractors much in general, pretty much clueless on the engine stuff, but I like figuring stuff out and doing it. Ive definitely learned a lot from you guys on here and have a service manual now. I think Ill try to roll the bearings in and go from there for now and see if that will get my tractor going for awhile.

MF 165 crankshaft bearing replacement

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