Let's talk hydraulics

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Cylinder rebuild to be exact. How difficult? Where to find parts? Special tools needed? Tips? Tricks? Can my wife handle this? Thanks!
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You'll need an adjustable spanner to remove the gland nut at the end. Seals are readily avail at McMaster Carr. There may be a brass/bronze/soft steel sleeve guide to hold it in place, it may be fixed or slide out and should be replaced if it's wobbly.

To do it right, that piston shaft should be turned and hard chromed. Need an industrial chrome shop to do that, not bright chrome. Put it all back together with plenty of bearing grease, don't over-tighten the gland nut at first. Fill and bleed it with the port at the top to get all the air out then install.

Might be better to just replace it by the time you do it right with a new hard chrome shaft.

This post was edited by docmirror on 11/28/2021 at 08:10 am.
 
Check out surplus center .com and see if you might replace it at a reasonable cost. If the ram is not heavily rust-pitted you might get by resealing it , otherwise it may be better/cheaper to replace it.
 
My favorite spanner I made using cheap HF adjustable wrench and 2 press pins.
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I have a hydraulic shop close by. The owner is very helpful for parts and advice. Hard to believe she knows the best part to use. If she doesn't have o ring in stock, she orders it and I'll have it in a day or two. She even shows me how to install a U seal I couldn't.

Old dental tools are handy.

An electric tea pot filled with motor oil heats and softens o rings making it easy to install.

Small engine honing stones help clean rusty ends.


Lathe and assortment of Emery cloth to polish rid.



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All great advice from the others. I will add one thing. Be sure to look for set screws in the cap before removal. I learned that one the hard way. No saving that one !
 
I forgot, some caps are threaded on and some use a wire. Mine use the BPIA wire.

Look for a wire on side of cylinder.

They make a spanner to remove threaded ends.
 
George that is a neat idea for an adjustable spanner. I am gonna have one like it hanging in my shop real soon.
 
Back when I worked for the Mesa School District , we made up a hose with a shut off valve & hooked up to the air compressor.
After all the retaining rings were removed we would apply air slowly and let air pressure seperate the ram from the barrel .
that way you could control it .
Make sure barrel end is against something solid .



azpeapicker Ph Cell 480-250-3864
 
(quoted from post at 09:57:15 11/28/21) I forgot, some caps are threaded on and some use a wire. Mine use the BPIA wire.

Look for a wire on side of cylinder.

They make a spanner to remove threaded ends.

After looking at the end of the cyl again, I think Geo is right on this might be a wire lock type. Clean the end out with a small wire brush and some varsol. You will see a round wire ring, with a gap like a piston gap. Need a very small, very good curved pick to get the end of the wire out of the gap. May need to press down/in on the flange to get the wire out of the gap. Once the wire is out, the lock flange and bushing will come up. If it's stuck, I use a come-a-long on the shaft to pull the flange, bushing, seals out.

I have seen an old one that used a huge snap ring, but that was on a 1940s cylinder and it was very heavy bore, with a thick snap ring.
 
Some can be a night mare to work on and others easy. Big thing is not nicking the new seal when you put them back together. As for parts if you have a hyd shop in the area that is the go to place and some tines the best if to have them do it while it may cost more if they mess up a seal they eat the cost
 

Yes, air will usually separate them. Air compresses, no matter how slow you add the air if the gland is stuck it will require building pressure to move it. Unless it moves with very little pressure, things can launch violently. Just like a firing range you need a backstop (rod end as well as the barrel end) and no one downrange if you are going to use air pressure. Using oil pressure is much safer, it doesn't compress and the pressure drops of as soon as there is a leak. Another method is to anchor the base and use a com-a-long on the rod to pull it apart.
 
if they mess up a seal they eat the cost
Not anymore. Case dealer put bolt in upside down on unload auger of my combine. Swung auger and bolt smashed the limit switch. I got charged for new switch and labor to install it.
 
(quoted from post at 15:34:44 11/28/21) I think this is a one way cylinder, The rod does not have to be chrome.

Nothing has to be done - but it's going to leak. I can take a picture and send it to confirm, as I have two just like that and both of them leak out the end shaft. They also have pitting on the inside of the sleeve, but I doubt that can be refinished. There is a seal up there that is turned around to keep moisture out of the cyl housing. That seal is gone, gone, gone, and it's been leaking for years already.
 
Yes but then I would be on their $hit list and never get them to do anything for me again or if they did they would get their money back from me on some other repair.
 
Just to add a bit. Back in Nov of 1995 I had a crime happen to me in and O'Reilly's auto parts store. It cause me to be disabled and I could have sued them but doing so I figured I could not longer buy parts from them. Sort of thin now I should have and maybe be better off
 

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