Case 830CK part 2 need help with questions

I put up some pictures and info about our Case last week. I had time this morning to look a little closer at it. Its always been very reliable and Ive never really had to work on it. As a result even though weve owned it for a decade Im still fairly ignorant about case tractors and equipment. The engine set up is familiar to me, 4 cylinder gas engine, updraft carburetor, same firing order as my Farmalls. It has developed a hard start and now a no start situation. Cranks over fine but it wont catch, just cranks. After looking at it I think its in desperate need of a tune up. The folks at J.I. Case put all the adjustment info right in the valve cover so I have all I should need there.


I have 12 volts to the distributor but when I manually open the points I dont get a consistent spark. The points look really dirty, the plug wires are so brittle Im scared theyll break if I move them much. The plugs are really rusty too. The questions right now are mostly about getting parts. I guess the first one is, whats the difference between a 830 and a 830 Comfort King?
I have been getting my parts from this site but I dont see what I need for this tractor. Our local farm store didnt have anything for it either. I will need points, rotor, cap,wires, and plugs. Where do the case guys go for parts?


This is a Prestolite 1BT-4403 distributor. And Champion D16 plugs. Should I stick with those or is there a better plug?
Also Ive never had the carburetor off the tractor. This seems like the time to have a look at it too.




Can you tell us what carburetor we have here and where I can get a kit for it? I hope to order parts this week. As always thanks for your help and knowledge!

I would leave the carb alone until You get the ign tuned up.

Diagnosis first. You have started that with the things you can see, but changing those can both disguise or create added issues. 12v to the distributor is the first issue to be solved. 90% of the time a 4 cylinder engine is shut off it stops with the pistons about 1/2 way up. The points are normally closed at this location so 12v at the distributor is wrong. When the points are closed there should be no voltage at the distributor terminal, and opening the points with a plastic fast food knife should then provide 12v there. Replacing and gapping the points correctly would be my step #1. The other mentioned parts should be replaced one at a time to be sure they work. Take off one plug wire at a time and replace it. Take images to be certain you are replicating the way it was. Spark plugs last. They don't all quit at once, and though needing to be replaced, are not causing the starting issue. If the voltage at the coil input from the key is less than battery volts when the key is on and the (New) points are closed, the ignition switch may also be at fault. Open circuits will read full voltage even if they are actually not capable of delivering the needed amps when put in use by the load. Jim

Post on the Case page, you will get your answers. John Saeli is you go to guy on the Case page, he can supply you with what you need both Knowledge and parts.

Thank you muleman. Ill copy and paste this over there.

Jim. I went back up and tested as you described with a plastic knife. Yes the points are closed. With the points open I see 12volts. With the point closed I intermittently see 12volts. If I wiggle them the voltage drops off. So Im thinking they are worn and not gapped correctly. Ill take your advise and start there as soon as I can find the right points for this distributor. Thank you.

I think your right. If its not broke why am I messing with it.

I would start with a basic tune up, plugs, points, condenser, and plug wires.

If the plugs have been in a long time and are not fouling, go back with the same D16, if they are oil fouling, go up to a hotter D21.

Points and condenser, replace them but save the condenser! It may be better than the new one. The new ones are known for being bad out of the box, so if it runs bad or won't get spark after the install, put the old condenser back in.

While you're in the distributor, check the centrifugal advance. The rotor should turn a few degrees and spring back when released. If it's frozen, slow to return or flops back and forth without returning, the distributor needs to come out, be disassembled, lubed, and repaired as necessary. Another critical test id side play in the shaft bushings. The bushing or bearing, whichever it has, must be tight or the points will not stay set. Points that will not stay set will be short lived and never operate properly.

Wires should be either solid wire or spiral core resistor. Avoid the graphite string type resistor wires. If you can't find a specific fit set, you can buy universal and cut them to length.

If the carb is working, you must be doing something right! As long as it's working, leave it alone! It is a very simple carb. The only moving parts are the float and needle valve. If it's not flooding, runs and idles good, what more can you ask? The biggest enemy is a trashy gas tank, or sitting with ethanol in the bowl.

PS, forgot to add the parts should be available on this site or at a real auto supply can match them up. Don't scrimp, if there is a premium name brand, go for it. Aftermarket parts are commonly poor quality, you need all the help you can get with quality.

Also, if the valves have not been set in a long time, this would be a good time to take a look, while the plugs are out and it's easy to turn.

https://www.external_link.com/

John will have everything you will ever need, and provide great advice and answers to any questions you have.

Tim

Tim,
Im planning on calling him tomorrow! Thank you.

Steve thank you for the info. The plugs were in there when I got the tractor so I think well replace them with the same. I plan to check the distributor and valves too. I didnt find the ignition parts on this site but Im planning to call John Saeli tomorrow. I havent had trouble with the carburetor so I guess I should leave well enough alone!

Why not just file the points and gap them and start it ? Then check everything you need to order. MAny times thats all it takes. Hold the coil wire out from the coil a bit , get someone to crank it and you should be seeing and hearing the spark jumping. Points is the first thing to look at with a dpark problem

Thats a good idea. If I can get it to start Id much rather work on it in the shop. I start dropping tools and parts in the dirt then I never find them back! I just want to get it back to the reliable tractor it has been. I use it to blade the driveway when we get snow. So Id rather go over it now instead of when its 15 degrees F with a pile of snow around it! Also I figured with the state of things in 2021 I should probably get these kind of parts on hand now in case I cant get them later. Thank you

Like Jim said replace one thing at a time and check results. Mass replacement will result in frustration and disappointment with nothing good happening. Start with the points. Then if no joy move to wires or plugs. Neither of them goes bad all at once. checking results again. Moving strategically one thing at a time. Our old 830 CK used to be hard on points as I recall. Been gone for 40 years now.