Getting tire over outer rim edge

So far I've kinked neck, had pry bar nail both hands, slipped in mud and conked forehead on rim... Then a buddy tried helping and about 20 mins later his hand was in the way of fast moving 4' tire tool. There has got to be a way to get the tire outside rim back over the rim metal edge without tearing new tube or bead part of tire. Open to suggestions, funny sarcasm and would prefer not to spend 350 dollars or more for a 3 minute task. I haven't tried the rock breaker digging bar, yet. It is on a JD industrial loader with a gannon scraper/ripper box on back.

(quoted from post at 17:54:04 11/02/21) So far I've kinked neck, had pry bar nail both hands, slipped in mud and conked forehead on rim... Then a buddy tried helping and about 20 mins later his hand was in the way of fast moving 4' tire tool. There has got to be a way to get the tire outside rim back over the rim metal edge without tearing new tube or bead part of tire. Open to suggestions, funny sarcasm and would prefer not to spend 350 dollars or more for a 3 minute task. I haven't tried the rock breaker digging bar, yet. It is on a JD industrial loader with a gannon scraper/ripper box on back.

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On or off the tractor? Front or rear, size, and pictures of how you are going at it would help. first bead or one on and going after the second bead?

Most rims have a narrow and wider side beside the dropped center. Tire should go on from the narrow side so the bead can drop into the center. What are you using for lube? the right tire irons can make a difference.

This post was edited by Jim.ME on 11/02/2021 at 03:05 pm.

Hopefully the rim is still mounted on the tractor. It's probably easier to watch a youtube video than explain, but here goes.

If trying to dismount the tire from the rim, you'll need to break the bead so to speak, the bond between the tire and rim. That takes some force and there are various ways to do it. Dismounted rim/tire on the ground, I've used some wood blocking and the loader bucket using down pressure. I have done the same while mounted with the back of the backhoe bucket to push in the sidewall and leave space to get the tire spoons under. The tire guy used his boom, but I had already had the bead broken for him.

From there, the tire spoons, (they work best in pairs) are used to guide a small section of the bead over the rim at a time. Too much or too little is all a person needs to learn about, then it's relatively easy. You don't want to stress the bead, so it takes a little care, but not impossible. I'm assuming the tire is not huge, say 14.9 - 28, 13.6-28 etc. etc. It seems the 2nd bead is easier once the first one is off the rim.

I just paid the tire outfit for a service call to replace a tube, $400+, I did not have time to do it. They put a boot in the tire and re-filled with CACL ballast, which I think I'll change to a non corrosive type at some point. On this one the previous owner let the valve core leak and it ruined the outside of the rim, inside was not rusted at all. Entirely separate discussion LOL !

Do a search on youtube, you'll see how it's done fairly quickly !

Re-reading post it sounds like you have the tube in place and are trying to get the outer/second tire bead over the rim. What are you using for lube? Have you anchored the tube in the rim? Have you put air in it, if so how much? I prefer to use a pull chain on the tube stem and leave the tube loose while mounting the tire, with very little air in the tube, as you don't want the tube holding the tire out from dropping into the center of the rim as you work the bead on. I start the tire bead over the rim 180 degrees from the stem hole and work both sides evenly to the hole. If you are doing this on the tractor you could get the tire into the rim drop and let the jack down a bit to hold it in the drop. Once the tire is on the rim (jack it back up if you let it down to hold the tire) I anchor the stem and inflate/deflate the tube two or three times to help center the tube up, before inflating it the final time. Just my thoughts, others will vary.

All I can add is that I struggled with tires for years until I got proper tire mounting grease. I used dish soap on the beads for years, but tire grease is 10 time slicker on the bead. I now use Murphy's tire mounting compound.

For remounting the tire, if everything is good and clean, you shouldn't need a 4' bar to remount the tire.

The best tire tools we have are old passenger car leaf springs.

Good luck.

Proper tire mounting grease really does make a big difference.

what kind of tire are you talking about so i can visualize what is going on? there is nothing hard about a tractor tire then can give a suggestion.

I presume you are talking about a rear tire. The part of tire bead already over the rim, has to be toward the center of rim and not on the bead shoulder where it will end up being. It has to do this to allow room for the rest of it to be worked over the rim. It is easier to do with rim mounted on a jacked up tractor. Start at the top, and work your way around and downward to allow gravity to assist you and not work against you. The last time I did it this way, it was going on so easy that I had to be careful that the bead on the other side wasn't working itself off, while I was working the one side on. The last little bit did get tough. I had to rotate the part undid up to the top for that last little bit so I could use pry bars in a better way. And yes, you got to be careful with the tube at the very end also.

Watch this video at the 11:45 mark. As is said by others keep the bead of the tire that is already over the rim lip down in the smaller diameter section of the rim ..valley if you will.. is most helpful. Clamping a vice grip on the rim lip at the point the bead crosses over the rim opposite of where you are prying to hold the progress from going backwards is also helpful. Stressing the use of good mounting lube cannot be over stated. Progressing around the rim advancing 2 - 4 inches past the spot where the bead is crossing over the rim lip to get the next pry spot or ..bite.. with your bar. And as you see him do go to the other side or half already over the lip as stated at the first and get the tire to settle in the ..valley.. or reduced diameter area again is key, so working back and forth as you progress. A tire tool with a spoon profile as is on the one in the link is ideal. My uncle has one we have used for years on the farm it is more flat and has a ..speed bump.. sort of hump across it and it works far better than any other tire spoon I have seen.
Video

Tire spoon

I could not get a skid steer tire on I took it to a local tire shop he made it look like magic. Of course he knew what he was doing plus he used euro past as a lube. The next ones I did I used euro past it did not go as easy as he made it to be but I won...

I deal with car tires some can be a pain (low profile) euro past makes all the difference. A special lube is worth the investment.

So you dont want to pay $350 for a tire guy to do a 3 minute job. By time you guys get out of the emergency room and ruin the tire and tube, the job will cost $1000.

You've got to get the bead that's on back away from the rim bead ledge and into the middle channel to have any hope of getting the tire on

Industrial so that means you're probably working with a stiff old 12 or 14 ply tire too. Usually once you get to those, they go on locking ring rims because they are too hard to pry on over a drop center rim.

We need to know what size tire and how many plies it is-etc?If its over an 8 ply or is bigger than a 18.4x38 mine go to the tire shop.

I thought about including the size and should have. Yes a rear tire, it is 8 ply, 14.9-24/13-24. Guess is the 13 and 14.9 are minimum/maximum width and 24 is size of rim in inches. I greatly appreciate the suggestions.

Does anyone know where to purchase rendered beet juice. It has the consistency of axle grease and is dark green. I've found many places to purchase the juice for ballast but having a hard time tracking down the thick grease type. Thanks again for the thoughts and suggestions.

A method I've used to break beads on tire/rim that is off the tractor and works well. Put a couple of boards or box steel under one side of the rim to keep it above the ground. Next you can use the flat part of a loader bucket front edge set just off the rim and roll bucket down. it forward. If that ends up lifting front of tractor then move it over so the corner of bucket (either side) is on tire and again roll it forward. When it is a smaller front tire or baler small tire I've used both an F150 4x4 and Suburban 4x4 or one of the other tractors to drive front wheel around the rim keeping the moving tire as close to rim as possible without damaging either tire. Be sure no one is standing in line if the tire laying on ground manages to slip out and move.

Drawing of Jim.ME's important point.

Oh that's not so bad. Your main challenge is the tire is old and stiff, as the size indicates it's from around 1960.

14.9x24 is the new size and 13-24 is the old size.

Make sure you're not trying to stretch it on the "long" way as shown by JMOR's illustration. Any kind of soap is better than nothing. Work it on in small bites.

Did you get your tire mounted yet or are you still working on it?

If you are looking for the beet grease for tire mounting I would suggest checking with your local parts store. I doubt they will have the beet grease, but they will likely have one of the common tire mounting (paste) lubes, like Tru-Flate/Camel #12-095, Murphy's, Frey Lube, etc.. A lot of shops take some paste and mix water with it to use as a liquid as well. The last pail (8 lbs.) of 12-095 I got was less than $20 and will last quite a while.

After looking again at rim the shorter shoulder is of course on inside rim. With the full fender it can be gotten at under the foot platform. At this point I'm putting wedges between rim edge and tire bead on inside and adjusting lift (using angle ram along with top link ram). Just about at point of hiring a tire guy to come out. Depending their location the travel time is about the same as hourly rate when they arrive. Thanks for posting the drawing it helped visualizing where back bead needs to be for any hope of getting front bead over. I got it about 1/2 way around by myself but couldn't keep everything in place while pressuring the two tire bars. So I took a break to reposition backhoe and continue digging new well pickup. Sank Case 580 CK extendahoe to the frame. We've had 3.5 inches of rain in last 2 weeks and parts of creek bed are loam, not rock. Another day, another mess. Thanks again.