Looking for a loader tractor - recommendations needed

alfio

New User
Hello all,

Long time lurker/reader of the forum, first time poster.

I'm reaching out today because we've moved to a new place and I'm trying to figure out what sort of tractor makes sense. The place is 40 acres, mostly wooded and very hilly. Uses for the tractor would be bushogging the flat areas (10 acres or so), pulling logs, moving gravel, and likely some hay work in the future (would like to run a square baler at some point but not a must have right now).

I currenty have a Massey SCUT (GC1720) and can probably handle some of the mowing with that but would like to get a bigger tractor with a heavy duty loader that can handle more of the work in the woods, have a bigger bucket (for mulch and gravel), and generally help lifiting heavy stuff (1,500 lbs. minimum lifting would be a great help!).

I'm partial to diesel engines and I'm not looking for the newest greatest thing so older models are very much in play (though I probably need power steering at a minimum).

I always do my own repair work (or as much as possible) and parts availability is therefore important. In terms of budget, I'd like to stay in the $3-7K range which isn't too much cash to play with but it's what i can spend on this at the moment.

Would appreciate any recommendations / ideas. Thanks!

a.
 
3-7 thousand is not a lot to work with but you could probably get a good condition Ford 5000 with loader in that range. The
major disadvantage would be no mechanical front wheel drive.
 
Alfio, this is a much hashed over topic and there are other threads on this if you search. Unless you live in an extremely sparsely populated remote area, you are
really making this a challenge with your budget topping out at $7,000. NOW, that said, just a few threads down 1206MO posted some auction results that had a
IH1066 with a loader in Kansas that sold for $6800 if I recall, so they do exist. You will be looking at a 1960's or 1970's tractor most likely, no 4WD (which
would be really good for you in your very hilly area). I would say you will be looking for awhile, but you may get lucky and be at the right place at the right
time.
 
Oops the 1066 did not have a loader. The 1086 did have a loader and sold for $7900. At least you specified a budget which most dont.
 

yes, the budget is a limiting factor but i'm not worried about lack of 4wd (i have other equipment: skid steer, mini excavator) which i can use if i get in trouble.

i am looking at the older Fords, missed out on one recently but still keeping an eye open.

a.
 
(quoted from post at 09:42:25 10/18/21) Unless you live in an extremely sparsely populated remote area, you are
really making this a challenge with your budget topping out at $7,000... I would say you will be looking for awhile, but you may get lucky and be at the right place at the right
time.

Looking for a while is not a problem! Money is time but time is money, right?

I'm not in a hurry and, given time, I may be able to increase my budget some. As I said above, lack of 4 wheel drive is not (at this time) a huge need. i'm more interested in something that will meet my (basic) criteria and will help me get some work done around here.

I guess the main reason is to get some ideas on specific brand/models that will be a good it for what I'm looking for.

a.
 
The Plains states tend to price lower than many other regions in the US. Also, a usable 1066 with loader does not come up for auction everyday in a given area. A jockey would probably price that 1066 at 10,000 dollars or more if on his lot.
 
Sounds like a 50 plus HP utility tractor could suit your needs. Condition and options will make more difference than brand name. By the late 1960's most brands made pretty good utility tractors.

On greasy hills I've noticed that rear tires with 45 degree lugs and front tires with three ribs hold side hills a little better than 23 degree rear tires and smoother floatation front tires.
 
alfio,
You couldn't find a small diesel powered terramite for $7K.

Many sites that sell used tractors.

I would never buy an old ford with SOS.

Just me, I would want a tractor without HST on a loader, no clutch.
 
I am working NY986 and the Ford 5000.
I have a 1974 5000 with a loader. It
is a great old tractor and does
everything I need. Bullet proof heavy
tractor. Very similar to what you are
doing. As others said don't get an SOS
trans in a Ford
 
like has been said 3to 7k is not a big budget but I would not get a 2wheel drive if your in any hilly area 4 wheel drive will be better at resale also
 
I would recommend any of the older IH utility models in the 84 series. A lot of those had loaders
placed on them in my experience. Internationals usually had fairly decent hydraulic capacity to
support using a loader.

I would also recommend any of the older Ford models from the 3000/3600 up through the 6000 or 7000
model sizes. I personally have not seen as many Fords with a loader as the Internationals. In my
opinion, the Ford front axle was heavier built and more loader capable than the International axle.
That's my opinion, others here may disagree.

These tractor models with loaders on them are out there in your price range.
 
Instead of blowing the little bit of money you have on some clapped out old tractor why not work out a financial plan to save as much as possible toward your tractor fund between now and spring? Anything you can add to the pot improves your options.
 
Tend to agree. Anything within budget may take another 7K to fix up.
Old saying you get what you pay for applies.
 
I see a lot of tractors with loaders selling in that range,most won't win a beauty contest but this is a good time of year to buy and with fuel and heating bills going up probably be a good year to pick up a bargain.
 
One thing about you can always buy a new tractor and then
when it breaks you can pay to fix and make the payment to.
Sometimes I think we need to change the name of this site
from yesterdays tractor too www. Im to scared to fix anything
buy a new kubota dot com I have less than 5000.00 into my
one loader tractor about 15 thousand into the other that
included complete engine overhaul new hydraulic pumps and
paint and replaced a bunch of sheet metal new batteries new
seat new radio pretty much made a new tractor out of it .
 
(quoted from post at 13:57:36 10/18/21) One thing about you can always buy a new tractor and then
when it breaks you can pay to fix and make the payment to.
Sometimes I think we need to change the name of this site
from yesterdays tractor too www. Im to scared to fix anything
buy a new kubota dot com I have less than 5000.00 into my
one loader tractor about 15 thousand into the other that
included complete engine overhaul new hydraulic pumps and
paint and replaced a bunch of sheet metal new batteries new
seat new radio pretty much made a new tractor out of it .


SV, I can see it now. Suddenly you are rarely on the site. You are not posting about repair projects. You announce that you don't have time for repairs anymore. You announce that you are buying a Kubota. THEN the big announcement! OHHHH! SV has a girlfriend, LOL.
 
You mentioned you have a skid steer and
mini excavator.
In that case I would skip the loader on the
tractor. A loader makes a long, clunky
behemoth out of an otherwise nimble farm
tractor. If you like the Fords look for a
65-75 three cylinder 4000 or a 76-81 4600.
They are simple, reliable, have good parts
availability - new and used.
You should be able to get a good one for
under your $7K price range. If you like
Fords and must have a loader on it look for
an industrial model - 4400, 445, 545, etc.
They were Made as loader tractors and are
shorter, lower than the ag models. All the
ones I mentioned have the same basic
chassis but different steering and
transmission configurations in them.
Skip the Select O Speed trannys and the
shuttle shift with torque converters in
them.
 
Not sure how big your skid steer is but if I had a skid loader I dont think I would be using a loader
on a tractor. For pulling trees I find cut the.m Up a bit and use the skid steer.
I have hills and clay and front assist tractor is a must with a loader on it. 2 wheel drive is ok for
everything else.
 
I'm on my third early Ford with a loader. All bought under $5000. All needed a bit of work to get up to decent operation. Anything you buy around $3-5000 is going to need some time, and some bucks to get it right. Common stuff - rear tires, fluids, valve job, batt, tune up, seals, and grease.

I have a 641, 861, and 961. All were built in the late 50s up to the mid 60s. They are tough as nails, and very primitive. No bells, no whistles and none of them will win any beauty contests. All have loaders, my 961 has the hyd ram pressure unit off the tractor and while it works, the operation is kinda slow. The front mounted pump with shaft is preferred.

Downside - most are 6V, but if maintained right will start in fairly cold weather. Goofy gear shift, but never fails, don't get 'select-o-shift'. Loaders are aftermarket, and some are clunky, but also they are over-built so rarely need much. They leak.

Upside - Very solid built. Some have spin out rims, or they have swapping rims and extendible front axle so can be made quite safe for hilly terrain. Convert to 12 get a Pertronix and it's all good. Clutches seem to last a long, long time, or I'm a good operator. Parts easy to find and cheap.

Caution: With a loader you MUST get the optional 'power assist' steering. Not joking.
 
(quoted from post at 12:30:01 10/18/21) Instead of blowing the little bit of money you have on some clapped out old tractor why not work out a financial plan to save as much as possible toward your tractor fund between now and spring? Anything you can add to the pot improves your options.

yes, this is definitely in the works. also, if and when i get to selling some things i'm not using as much these days (dump truck, spare trailer, etc) i can fund a higher dollar purchase.
 
(quoted from post at 12:36:58 10/18/21) Tend to agree. Anything within budget may take another 7K to fix up.
Old saying you get what you pay for applies.

i understand but most of my purchases are along the lines of good price + parts + sweat equity = good deal. i've gotten burned a couple of times but it usually works out in my favor. its a good way to learn about future repairs as well.

a.
 
(quoted from post at 15:19:53 10/18/21) You mentioned you have a skid steer and
mini excavator.
In that case I would skip the loader on the
tractor. A loader makes a long, clunky
behemoth out of an otherwise nimble farm
tractor. If you like the Fords look for a
65-75 three cylinder 4000 or a 76-81 4600.
They are simple, reliable, have good parts
availability - new and used.
You should be able to get a good one for
under your $7K price range. If you like
Fords and must have a loader on it look for
an industrial model - 4400, 445, 545, etc.
They were Made as loader tractors and are
shorter, lower than the ag models. All the
ones I mentioned have the same basic
chassis but different steering and
transmission configurations in them.
Skip the Select O Speed trannys and the
shuttle shift with torque converters in
them.

thanks for the recommendations, much appreciated

not super worried about the length but it is something to keep in mind. i'm mostly interested in the tractor to fill a gap in my equipment shed. i have to have a smaller skid steer and mini excavator (because of the work I do) but i need something at home with some power so that i can lift/drag around heavy items and get some larger scale mowing done.

a.
 
(quoted from post at 16:37:04 10/18/21) I'm on my third early Ford with a loader. All bought under $5000. All needed a bit of work to get up to decent operation. Anything you buy around $3-5000 is going to need some time, and some bucks to get it right. Common stuff - rear tires, fluids, valve job, batt, tune up, seals, and grease.

I have a 641, 861, and 961. All were built in the late 50s up to the mid 60s. They are tough as nails, and very primitive. No bells, no whistles and none of them will win any beauty contests. All have loaders, my 961 has the hyd ram pressure unit off the tractor and while it works, the operation is kinda slow. The front mounted pump with shaft is preferred.

Downside - most are 6V, but if maintained right will start in fairly cold weather. Goofy gear shift, but never fails, don't get 'select-o-shift'. Loaders are aftermarket, and some are clunky, but also they are over-built so rarely need much. They leak.

Upside - Very solid built. Some have spin out rims, or they have swapping rims and extendible front axle so can be made quite safe for hilly terrain. Convert to 12 get a Pertronix and it's all good. Clutches seem to last a long, long time, or I'm a good operator. Parts easy to find and cheap.

Caution: With a loader you MUST get the optional 'power assist' steering. Not joking.

thanks for the model specific recommendations.

i know little about the older fords but they do seem to be common around these parts. i'm not sure if they could meet my desired lift requirements (1,500 lbs. minimum) but i'm interested in learning more.

a.
 
(quoted from post at 19:19:53 10/18/21) You mentioned you have a skid steer and
mini excavator.
In that case I would skip the loader on the
tractor. A loader makes a long, clunky
behemoth out of an otherwise nimble farm
tractor. If you like the Fords look for a
65-75 three cylinder 4000 or a 76-81 4600.
They are simple, reliable, have good parts
availability - new and used.
You should be able to get a good one for
under your $7K price range. If you like
Fords and must have a loader on it look for
an industrial model - 4400, 445, 545, etc.
They were Made as loader tractors and are
shorter, lower than the ag models. All the
ones I mentioned have the same basic
chassis but different steering and
transmission configurations in them.
Skip the Select O Speed trannys and the
shuttle shift with torque converters in
them.


Pretty much what I was going to say. If you have a skid steer, a decent one, why the need for a loader tractor?
 
(quoted from post at 05:13:44 10/19/21)
(quoted from post at 19:19:53 10/18/21) You mentioned you have a skid steer and
mini excavator.
In that case I would skip the loader on the
tractor. A loader makes a long, clunky
behemoth out of an otherwise nimble farm
tractor. If you like the Fords look for a
65-75 three cylinder 4000 or a 76-81 4600.
They are simple, reliable, have good parts
availability - new and used.
You should be able to get a good one for
under your $7K price range. If you like
Fords and must have a loader on it look for
an industrial model - 4400, 445, 545, etc.
They were Made as loader tractors and are
shorter, lower than the ag models. All the
ones I mentioned have the same basic
chassis but different steering and
transmission configurations in them.
Skip the Select O Speed trannys and the
shuttle shift with torque converters in
them.


Pretty much what I was going to say. If you have a skid steer, a decent one, why the need for a loader tractor?

my skid steer is a compact model - i use it for work and because of the projects i do, i can't have a heavy machine (hence the limited lifting capacity).

a.
 
thanks for the model specific recommendations.

i know little about the older fords but they do seem to be common around these parts. i'm not sure if they could meet my desired lift requirements (1,500 lbs. minimum) but i'm interested in learning more.

a.

As these are farm tractors, all the loaders are aftermarket, and have varying degrees of lift. 1500Lbs is quite a bit, and most times, that will lift the rear wheels off the ground, if there is enough ram pressure to get it lifted. I've lifted a 40' long 5x10" steel I beam which was about 700 with no problems but the rear tires are going to lift. I put a barrel filled with water on my rear blade to counter weight. This is not convenient, and it's not what the tractor was designed for, so compromises are common.

A industrial tractor would be ideal, but my finding with all those in your price range is they are on their last gasp, and will need $$$$$$$ before it will do the job. I looked at some of the early industrials with a loader, and they all say 'needs valve job' or 'needs trans work' or something really pricey. If you look at the industrials, check everything out very well. The farm tractors with a loader is a compromise design but I make it work.
 

If it does not have 4WD , power steering ,live hydraulics , diff lock , three point hitch and live PTO . Dont
Buy it . Hydraulic brakes are usually better
To have .
Probably should add another $10,000 to the budget . Or even think of something new when interest rates are low .
 
(quoted from post at 12:48:37 10/18/21)
yes, the budget is a limiting factor but i'm not worried about lack of 4wd (i have other equipment: skid steer, mini excavator) which i can use if i get in trouble.

i am looking at the older Fords, missed out on one recently but still keeping an eye open.

a.

2WD tractor with a loader on wet hills . No , do not try to convince yourself that this is acceptable .
 
I would trade the massey in on the next size larger. I have a JD 4200 cut and it gets used for everything including brush hogging
 
I looked up the wheel width combos on my 961 and 861. The rear can go all the way out to 78" wide, which is 6 feet 6 in. I have fluid in my rear tires on the 961. Front will go out to 80" with reversed front rims on hub. Use on hills is still a concern, but it can be mitigated to an extent. As with all things tractor, it is up to the operator.

I'm building my own ROPS for the 961 now as the stanchions for the loader reach about chest high right now. I'm going to weld off that, and go up another 4', and put in cross braces. I work my tractor at Timberon, NM at 7000' elevation in the rocks and mountains. There are places I will not go, but there are also places where the wide stance keeps it quite stable.

Building a ROPS on an old tractor is again - something the operator would decide on and deal with. Common sense in use should still prevail.

Edit: I looked at my rims on the 961, and I have the optional orchard rims. I can go all the way out to 94" width by reversing the arced inner, and extending the outer bolt flange all the way. Hard to tip that bi-atch over!
mvphoto83410.jpg



This post was edited by docmirror on 10/19/2021 at 05:54 pm.
 
(quoted from post at 09:16:44 10/19/21)
(quoted from post at 05:13:44 10/19/21)
(quoted from post at 19:19:53 10/18/21) You mentioned you have a skid steer and
mini excavator.
In that case I would skip the loader on the
tractor. A loader makes a long, clunky
behemoth out of an otherwise nimble farm
tractor. If you like the Fords look for a
65-75 three cylinder 4000 or a 76-81 4600.
They are simple, reliable, have good parts
availability - new and used.
You should be able to get a good one for
under your $7K price range. If you like
Fords and must have a loader on it look for
an industrial model - 4400, 445, 545, etc.
They were Made as loader tractors and are
shorter, lower than the ag models. All the
ones I mentioned have the same basic
chassis but different steering and
transmission configurations in them.
Skip the Select O Speed trannys and the
shuttle shift with torque converters in
them.


Pretty much what I was going to say. If you have a skid steer, a decent one, why the need for a loader tractor?

my skid steer is a compact model - i use it for work and because of the projects i do, i can't have a heavy machine (hence the limited lifting capacity).

a.

Ok, I understand and I've read your updates. You are not going to find what you want in a small farm tractor, not with 1500 lbs lift and the ability to move it on a hill. You are talking a 75-150hp farm tractor probably, and that's just lifting power, not breakout force. Sounds to me like you are looking for an industrial loader tractor, with a 3 pt and PTO, definitely power steering and probably 4wd. You are not going to get what you are looking for in lift from "an old Ford". I think you are going to have to change your parameters a bit, either less expected lift or a bunch more money.
 


Two more points: Gravel weighs 1,400/yd. Your 5000 Ford will not likely have a bucket capacity over 1/2 yard. So you need only 700 lbs. capacity. Second: There are great buys in buying something big. Any 40 year old 50 HP tractor will have five times as many lookers as a a 40 year old 100 HP tractor, and pricing will usually reflect this. The bigger one may very well start out overpriced but will often drop a lot before selling.
 

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