Some questions on my AC 172 rotary mower...

Will Herring

Well-known Member
So I put the 172 mower on my "not restored" WD today (after adjusting the draw bar), and boy you can tell the difference, as the restored tractor has M&W pistons on it and will play great with the mower in heavy weeds. But it still did a good job.

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Anyway, I thought I would try to remove the blades to measure and find replacements as these look bad, but I could not get the castle nuts to budge. Any tips?

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I have thought of flap disc putting a new edge on these in place, but man they seem really badly worn.

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Also, side bar, when I adjusted my draw bar to attach the mower (I had in my head you want the draw bar all the way back to use the mower), this front bolt is literally seized in the bar... Guess I need to use a sledge to knock her free?

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Do the castle nuts have a cotter pin or
other retainer that may be broken off in it?
Keep spraying them with oil and if you can
use a very powerful impact. Worst case cut
them off if you can find a replacment.
 
Years of rust has the nut sized to the bolt. Like someone else mentioned cut it off with a cutting torch, or heat it red, and let it cool it will
come off. The blades don't look very bad. I think if you just used a 4 inch grinder you could put an edg back on the blades Stan
 
If you flip the axle and put the wheels inside behind the frame makes for a better cutter in my opinion can get closer to things.Also gives the cutter more hitch weight which gives the tractor better traction.
 
Dad had a John Deere mower that the bolts holding the blades were backwards thread. Check with AGCO online parts and see if that is
mentioned in the parts description. Tom
 
I also think you have a lot of life left in those blades. Do they cut alright? It looks like they cut pretty good from looking at your picture. I believe when the blades
have a jagged edge like that they actually cut better. If they cut OK, why don't you just keep on cutting but keep those nuts soaked with Deep Creep, etc. after each
cutting?
I wish you could see the blades on this one.
You'd cringe. (;>))

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Will. It occurred to me after my post below that my blade pin nuts call for a torque setting of 600 ft/lbs. I use a 6' piece of heavy pipe to get those nuts off and back
on again. Yor pins and nuts look to be somewhat smaller than mine (Land Pride) but you might be able to get them off by applying a lot more torque.
 
Tom. Just looking at the picture of the nut I can see threads above the nut that appear to be right hand. At any rate, he should be able to tell by a close look onsite.
 
J Hamilton -- There may be a broken piece of cotter pin in there (I did remove a pin that was rusted as heck).

37 chief -- Heat seems to be my option here but I may try to angle grinder the blade back first.

Traditional Farmer -- It is sure easy to hitch this way lol. Always wondered how it would mow if the wheels were set different though.

tomstractorsandtoys -- Will definitely check this one, thanks.

Moonlite37 / Bill(Wis) -- I am really starting to think about just grinding them sharp in place... They cut okay, but you can tell that heavy brush and tall weeds they just bog down too much from beating the grass instead of cutting it. It needs some sort of an edge on it, it's really rounded badly. But yeah... I suspect the torque on these bolts is high (BEFORE the rust, haha).
 
(quoted from post at 01:41:43 08/23/21) If you flip the axle and put the wheels inside behind the frame makes for a better cutter in my opinion can get closer to things.Also gives the cutter more hitch weight which gives the tractor better traction.

I've got the same mower. I don't think you can "flip" the axle around. The wheels being outside the cutting width are a pain, but it's a great bush hog.
 
That'll work. I get under mine with a grinder when the leading edge of a blade gets blunted over from rock strikes. I never saw a need to balance them. They seem to run
just fine without.
 

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