John Deere 2010 starts and immediately shuts off

CJF1981 · Jul 30, 2021

I was using my 1963 John Deere 2010 to disc a hunting food plot and it shut off. I noticed prior to this it running and then almost shutting off, but
revving up after almost shutting off. At those times when it was almost shutting off, I engage the clutch to stop pulling the discs hoping to get the
engine back to normal. However, it will start up and immediately shut off. It does this every time I start it. I do have to spray some starter fluid to get it
started most of the time. After shutting off every time I started it, I unplugged the battery. I checked the ignition where the wiring goes and it was
scolding hot. After it shut off I would think it would be warm not boil an egg hot. I was told that it could be ignition/wiring? Any thoughts on where to
look or what to try to fix this issue? Thank you in advance.

showcrop · Jul 30, 2021

Could you give a little more description of "the ignition where the wiring goes"?

used red MN · Jul 30, 2021

When you say ..ignition where the wiring goes.. are you talking about the ..ignition coil.. as shown in the link? If so and it is getting really hot it is probably failing.
Example coil

Tom in Mo. · Jul 30, 2021

Bad ballast resistor.

Steve@Advance · Jul 30, 2021

Assuming this is gas, if you are feeling the coil, no, it should not be any hotter than the surrounding engine components, probably cooler.

An internally shorted coil will overheat and quit working, just as is happening.

If you replace the coil be sure to get the correct one, some use a resistor, some don't. If the coil has been changed it might be the wrong one causing the overheat.

Also check the points gap. Closed up points will cause the coil to run hot.

thehickdaddy · Jul 30, 2021

I remember my dad saying the factory 2010 ignition wire had resistor in the wire that gave him trouble til he bypassed it with copper wire and ran internal resistor ignition coil.
About 5,000 hours since the bypass and no more phantom ignition trouble.

CJF1981 · Jul 30, 2021

I should have been more clear. The ignition switch where the key goes. There are several wires that run into the back that were scolding hot. See
attached image from the parts catalog for this tractor.

CJF1981 · Jul 30, 2021

It was the back of the ignition switch where the key goes. See image attached. I did not touch the ignition coil.

CJF1981 · Jul 30, 2021

Would like to know more on how to do this so it doesnt happen again. Any advice would be appreciated.

CJF1981 · Jul 30, 2021

Where would this resistor be locates?

CJF1981 · Jul 30, 2021

CJF1981 · Jul 30, 2021

Will do. Do you anything about bypassing this so it doesnt happen again just like one of the comments below mentioned?

Steve@Advance · Jul 30, 2021

It's normal for the ballast resistor to get hot, if that's what you were feeling.

It is not normal for the back of the ignition switch to get hot. If it is heating up, it is going bad.

If you want to eliminate the resistor, replace the coil with a NAPA IC14SB. It is a true 12v coil with no resistor needed. Be sure to verify the part number stamped on the coil can itself, not just what the box says or the counter person says will work.

Janicholson · Jul 30, 2021

Because it has a ballast resistor, the wires and spade connectors that are hot should be replaced with new ones. The little spade terminals on the switch need to be sanded spotless shiny, and when the new connectors are pushed on there should be dielectric corosion inhibiting grease covering them to keep them good. The grease can be easily found at big box stores like Menards/Home Depot/Lowes/Fleet Farm/. it is often used to cover aluminum fittings to copper fitting connections. Also there are no coils with internal resistors. True 12v coils are just wound with wire and number of turns appropriate for 14+ volts charging voltage. I would keep the resistor because the way it is wired assists starting by bypassing the resistor as the starter motor spins the engine. Jim

jayrak · Aug 1, 2021

(quoted from post at 14:22:37 07/30/21)
<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto96015.jpg>

Where did you find a parts manual?

CJF1981 · Aug 1, 2021

I bought one years ago for the model 2010. I have the parts and service manual. They were quite expensive if I recall. I believe they were bought from
John Deere.com

Jim.ME · Aug 2, 2021

John Deere parts manuals are on line, here is a link:

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/

Jim.ME · Aug 2, 2021

Does your 2010 have the Ignition Switch Replacement Kit, you posted a picture of, installed or does it still have the ignition switch with the resistor mounted right on the back of the switch?

CJF1981 · Aug 2, 2021

Im not sure. I will have to look. If it has that ballast resistor, that might just need replaced? Also, assuming it does, can you get those at a standard
auto store?

Jim.ME · Aug 3, 2021

(quoted from post at 23:00:31 08/02/21) Im not sure. I will have to look. If it has that ballast resistor, that might just need replaced? Also, assuming it does, can you get those at a standard
auto store?

That resistor is part of the switch, the entire switch gets replaced. That resistor would be hot if you were feeling around in that area during/right after running. Hook a test light to the coil post the wire from the switch connects to and run it. If the light goes out when it quits the problem is likely between the coil and switch, if the light stays on the problem is something else; like coil, points, condenser or fuel. Check inside the distributor to be sure the condenser wire, or something else isn't grounding out after it starts. If you replace the coil you will need the right one to use with the ballast resistor on the switch, unless you replace the switch with one that does not have a resistor. Also what brand distributor does yours have? Delco and Prestolite used different coils. Some Prestolite distributors have a small nylon insulator on the tab where the point strap, condenser wire and wire from the coil hook together. Those can breakup and fail.

CJF1981 · Aug 12, 2021

Since my original post, I have replaced the 12 volt coil with one from Napa that matches the one I replaced. I put 4 new spark plugs in and a new ignition switch. My tractor will start up and run for a few seconds then shutoff. All the wires look good and everything appears connected. My next step is to try a voltage line tester to check the wires are getting current. As long as my battery is connected, the ignition switch turned on but not turned over, I should be getting current thru my electric lines? Any other thoughts? Ive uploaded a video below if its any help. Thank you in advance.

<video width=90% src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvvideos/cvvideo97298.mov controls>http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/cvvideos/cvvideo97298.mov</video>

showcrop · Aug 13, 2021

(quoted from post at 20:02:45 08/12/21) Since my original post, I have replaced the 12 volt coil with one from Napa that matches the one I replaced. I put 4 new spark plugs in and a new ignition switch. My tractor will start up and run for a few seconds then shutoff. All the wires look good and everything appears connected. My next step is to try a voltage line tester to check the wires are getting current. As long as my battery is connected, the ignition switch turned on but not turned over, I should be getting current thru my electric lines? Any other thoughts? Ive uploaded a video below if its any help. Thank you in advance.

<video width=90% src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvvideos/cvvideo97298.mov
controls>http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/cvvideos/cvvideo97298.mov</video>

Could you explain what you mean by "ignition switch turned on but not turned over"? and so that everyone can know how you are testing could you describe your "voltage line tester?"

CJF1981 · Aug 13, 2021

To clarify, I have not tested the wiring. From what I am gathering, Im still leaning towards my issue being a wiring problem. Since my tractor will not run, my plan is to turn the key to the on position so lights/electric would work. Then take a multimeter/voltage line tester and check all electric wiring lines. Im not an electrician or really experienced in testing the wiring on a tractor or vehicle. So Im looking for some help on this and also any other suggestions on what might be causing the tractor to shut off after changing the spark plugs, ignition switch, and coil.

showcrop · Aug 13, 2021

(quoted from post at 06:06:12 08/13/21)
To clarify, I have not tested the wiring. From what I am gathering, Im still leaning towards my issue being a wiring problem. Since my tractor will not run, my plan is to turn the key to the on position so lights/electric would work. Then take a multimeter/voltage line tester and check all electric wiring lines. Im not an electrician or really experienced in testing the wiring on a tractor or vehicle. So Im looking for some help on this and also any other suggestions on what might be causing the tractor to shut off after changing the spark plugs, ignition switch, and coil.

I suggest you get an in line spark plug tester at any auto parts store, so that you can check for spark right after it quits. no need tracing and replacing if they are sparing right? Also you have gotten thoughts and suggestions that you haven't reported back on. What is the deal on the switch? resister or not??

John Deere 2010 starts and immediately shuts off

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

New User

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Similar threads