Starting up an old f12

handcrank

Member
Haven't started my f12 in five years. Is there a checklist that I should go over
before I try to start it up. Thanks..
 
Partially remove the oil drain plug to let it leak a tiny amount to detect coolant. If coolant fix that first. If clearish water, let that leak out then tighten the plug if the oil is clean/usable. Check the oil level. check the coolant level. Check the position of throttle and spark retard. Make sure it is out of gear and brakes locked/wheels blocked. If old gas is in it I would drain it into a jerry can or gas can to use after the tractor runs as a 20% mix with new. Kill button in the run position. Choke on. Thumbs to the side of the crank handle and only pull up to 12 O'clock. Jim
 
I like to pull the spark plugs and give one shot of oil out of a pump can into each cylinder. About a tablespoon or so.

Beagle
 
Pull the plugs and check for spark. The points may need cleaning. About a teaspoon of gas in each cylinder will help seal the rings.


If gas was left in the tank and carb, draining it and starting over with fresh gas would be a good start.

Once fresh gas is in the tank, remove the drain plug on the carb bowl, let it flush. If no fuel comes out, the needle valve is stuck. Gently tapping the bowl might loosen it up, spraying carb cleaner in the drain hole will help with the flushing.

If no gas comes through the carb, no use trying until there is.

Look things over in general for chewed wiring, mouse, bird, mud dobber nests.

Check the fluid levels, crack loose the oil drain plugs and let any water drip out.

Once it starts, be sure it gets oil pressure. Some will loose oil pump prime when stored long term.
 
Go over to the Farmall Board and ask your question, lots of F-12 and F-14 owners can explain it to you.
 
No thanks. I wouldn't soil myself by going over there. I'll just leave it alone. I've never owned a Farmall and never will. Ho, Hum.
 
yes they have a fuel pump. pretty much the same one the old flathead fords had. the excess fuel is returned to tank. the w12 and w 14 is the same engine. even the old w9 has a fuel pump.
 
If the tractor has sat too long, I first pull the valve cover and crank over the engine to make sure there are no stuck valves. Replace cover if good after I oil the rockers. I like to silicone the cork gasket to the cover ut not to the head. Makes pulling the cover easier.

Next I add coolant and drain & put in fresh gas.

Then I crack the oil pan drain to let out any water to make sure it isn't flooded with coolant or gas from the fuel pump. If the diaphragm in the fuel pump crane is, it may dump gas into the crankcase. If the orings on the sleeves fail, it will let coolant into the crankcase.


I pull the spark plugs, add some oil, a out a teaspoon, put a hose on the carb drain to a can setting in the tool box and have someone pull me for a bit. I make sure oil pressure gets up, and gas pumped I to the can. If I remember right a 3/8 hose does the trick. I also check out to make sure the clutch isn't stuck/rusted to the plate.


If all that is good, I put a spark tester and crank over to make sure I have spark on #1 and I hear the impulse trip.

If all is good, I pit it back together, install the spark plugs and set it at half advance, choke, mid throttle, and crank.
 
I use 2-cycle gas from my chainsaw for that very reason. A 'dry start' is too risky. Dribble it in the carburetor of my old car to get her started, too.
 

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