Diesel fuel tank

41B-boy

Member
Location
Chehalis, WA
howdy gent's,

Newbie question. Please don't laugh.
I'm about to put a new 300 gallon Diesel fuel tank into service. It is in a covered shed, in Washington state, pretty mild temps all year.
I will work pretty hard to use 120 gals a year, good buddy neighbor next door will use about 80 gals per year, and just pay for what he takes.
Now, the questions: should I fill it to the top, and try to keep it as full as possible to avoid condensation? Or, will condensation present a big problem
anyway?
What if I don't use enough to start each season with fresh fuel? I use Cenex ( CHS ) Ruby Red diesel, good stuff... should I be concerned about spoilage, slime,
or sludge?
I'm installing a new filter/delivery system tomorrow morning... if I treat it, will it remain serviceable?
Don't worry about insulting me. Perhaps y'all might start at the beginning and offer some tips, procedures, and lessons learned.

TIA, Fr. Bob
 
I'm in maritime Washington. Average winter temps are mid 30's.
2-3 weeks during Nov-Jan in the 20's.
I believe the Cenex (CHS) Ruby Red is #1 grade. Have used it for years, never jelled in the tractor.
 
Hey stranger hows those B rims lookin. Here at the farm all they do is fill the tanks no treatment added. RB
 
Richard,

Ooohhhhh, dey be's so purty. S'peshully with the #5 mower on...

So, YOU of all folks know our climate. Should have thought to just ask you first. :)
I'll get it all plumbed up this weekend and get a fuel delivery next week. You get that building up yet?

Fr. Bob
 
Use your regular fuel and treat it once in a while with algae treatment if it sits a lot. Fill it in the fall so it's full in the winter when temps very the most. Use some howes diesel treat in the winter for anti gel if you need it. Shouldn't need it above zero temps tho.
 
I am not an expert and don't know anything about your climate, but I would suggest using a biocide meant for diesel. It would cost less than $10 to treat a tankful of fuel. To me that is pretty cheap insurance against the problems that biological contamination can cause.
 
You could install a drain in a lower position in the tank than where you are picking up the main outlet and drain it once in a while as you find necessary to get rid of condensation.
 
Yep back in April. Started on Monday finished Saturday. Mainly just of 2 of us did it. It sure is nice. One of these days i might find some time to stop in and agitate ya. Busy busy. RB
 
I would keep the tank full like jon says, to prevent condensation. We couldnt get a fuel supplier to fill a diesel fuel tank stored inside a building here. Have you checked with your supplier and possibly your insurance company about where you intend to locate your fuel tank?
 
Sounds like you need a 100 gallon tank, modern diesel has a poor shelf life I wouldn't want that much hanging around
 
I also have a 300 gallon tank and it takes us close to a year to go through it. I buy #2 and add the recomended amount of Power Service fuel treatment, we have no winter issues. I also add a bioside, cheap insurance against a nasty algea problem. Water is a problem here due to temperature fluctuations. Every 300 I have seen has a drain plug, put a valve in place of the plug and then stick the plug back in the valve as insurance against accidental or unauthorized drainiing. Tilt the tank slightly so the drain is lower than the pump end and drain off the water a couple times a year.
 
I suggest contacting your insurance company about having a fuel tank in the shed. They should not object because many pieces of farm equipment have large fuel tanks, combines for instance. 330 gallons in some cases. trucks, tractors, etc. Right now, I have 430 gallons of fuel in my shed in the tanks of 1 combine, 3 tractors, 1 truck and a portable 110 gallon tank. I have 2 500 gallon tanks outside that get filled once a year. Before filling I pump everything out of the bottom of the outside tanks. Goldenrod makes water block filters that I replace before each annual delivery. I have a clear bottle available to take a fuel sample before filling my equipment. I use the same fuel as you're getting. Keep sediment bulbs clean and replace filters on your engines regularly. In 25 years of doing this I have never experienced any fuel problems and quite often deal with -20F conditions.
 
Put a meter on the fuel line so you know how much the neighbor uses. It is easy to use more than you think. Have a drain in the bottom to draw off the water in the bottom of the tank. We draw off the water collected in the bottom that way and have used all these tanks for many decades with no fuel snake oil treatments and no fuel problems. Been running diesels here since the 1930's Using the same tank that grandpa used on the 36D-4 Cat. have about 2000 gallon in tanks not figuring the equipment. None of them set inside. One tank draws from the bottom on the end. Is about to get changed next time I have time. I would like to have just a roof over them for less water/snow setting on the tanks and keeps the hoses out of sun.
 
I don't use that much diesel either.
Where I live we have summer and winter blend diesel. So I buy diesel fuel using 5 gallon plastic diesel containers.
Try to use up summer blends about the time winter blends are sold.

I have a rule, Don't loan friends or family money. Don't do business with friends or family.

Alway talk to insurance agent.
 
(quoted from post at 04:55:11 07/02/21) I suggest contacting your insurance company about having a fuel tank in the shed. They should not object because many pieces of farm equipment have large fuel tanks.

You're using logic. Surely you've been around long enough now that you know logic has no place in insurance requirements.

More likely if you point out that you have several pieces of equipment with large fuel tanks in the shed, they will either require you to remove those machines from the shed or refuse to insure the shed and its contents.

Check your state laws regarding the bulk storage of fuel. My diesel tank seemed to be weeping earlier this year and I've been looking into replacement. My research was showing that it needed to be 25' from any building for starters.
 
When I installed my outside above ground tanks I contacted my insurance company to inquire about distance from building requirements. That's when I was informed that not
only were there no distance requirements but if I wanted to I could install the tanks inside of a building. That's also when the analogy of fuel tanks on equipment was
discussed, by the insurance company rep. One of my neighbors parks his semi and his combine inside of a building that also serves as his home. Another neighbor has 3
above ground tanks, 2 diesel and 1 gasoline right beside his dairy barn. In Wisconsin, above ground fuel storage tanks containing less that 1100 gallons do not have to be
registered.
 
Unless your fuel supplier has a minimum delivery size, I would go with a 100 or 150 gallon tank instead of 300 gallons. Different states and different insurance companies have very different rules on fuel storage, check what they are in your location.
 
Jon that is the logic most of you have.

Want to see the difference.
Load this 300 gallon tank on your flat bed without proper paperwork and placards and go threw a DOT inspection.
Whats wrong. You would think nothing of going threw an inspection with a truck that has 300 fuel tanks.
 
Might be better off buying a 120 gallon diesel tank for your pickup or it could be in a dedicated trailer. At least here in Oregon as long is it's under 120 (think that was the number) and diesel, either would be legal as I checked.
 
I would actually start by checking with your supplier for requirements and recommendations. Diesel is either a category 3 or 4 flammable liquid. In WA state they have plenty of rules on this kind of stuff, both for fire safety and environmental in case of a spill. They may also regulate tank drains, cofferdams, etc. as these are all sources of possible leaks. See the attached link for an idea of what you may be getting in to. A supplier may refuse to deliver if the customer's tank isn't to code--they will let you know what you need to do so they can safely and legally deliver. If not, then you're back to humping 5-gallon cans, which defeats the purpose of having the 300 gallon tank in the first place.

Do not fill to the tippy-top. 95% full is the typical standard, as diesel fuel expands by about 3% from 20F to 90F. You don't want to burp the tank on a hot day.
WA state fuel storage
 
But this one is not moving. The issue would be spill anywhere or fire inside. 300 gallons inside during a fire will not matter if it's in one or two tanks. And this steel tank will resist fire longer than the aluminum tanks on a truck, or worse yet the plastic tanks on most modern farm machinery.
 
Hey Barnyard, comment on insurance is spot on.
Nationwide made a mistake on my fleet insurance.
My insurance card said my C-30 was a C-60. Logic
tells us a 26000 gvw dump costs more than a 1-ton.
Pointed this out to my agent, and they changed it.
Next insurance bill was $20 higher. When I inquired
about this, they said the light truck is apt to be used
more than a heavy truck. I said that a C-60 with 8
tons of stone can kill more people per accident
than a light truck. They dont see it that way .
 
I have one on my flat bed along with a chemical shuttle pulling 1000 gallon of fertilizer.
 
I have a 500 a 300 a 250 a 100 for the back of my truck in a desert climate no problems with algae or anything but we only get three inches of rain every two years .
 

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