Moving rear wheels Day 2

super99

Well-known Member
I went out this morning and tried heating the U bolts as was suggested, no go. Then I heated the hub. I got them hot enough that the infra red thermometer just said Hi, I know it was over 550 because one of the ones I did earlier read that much. I let it cool while I heated the other side and then heated them again. I sprayed them with a diesel fuel /ATF mix and went to town for some errands and when I got home, I heated them 2 more times. They are soaking in loose juice now, I'll give them another shot before bed and see what tomorrow brings. There is no room to get a hydraulic jack under the bolt head as someone suggested. There isn't enough room to get a good swing at them with a hammer. I had the rims off and turned them around, it may be easier to take the rims and tires off to get them out on the open. I took the air chisel with a punch end on it and worked on the side of the hub to try to get some vibration on them to help break the rust. After the first heating, I drove it out and did donuts in the driveway while hitting the brakes, but with all of the rain, I just tore up the driveway. Glennster suggested an air chisel working on the bolts, but all of my chisels a wide enough I think they would just make the holes bigger. We'll see what tomorrow brings.
 
I don't like to do it, but I have had some axle hubs that had rusted in place and the only way I could get them broken loose was to heat the hub and take a sledge hammer and hit the axle itself square on the end to jar it aloose. Never had a bearing problem so far....
 
I wish you better luck than some of my experience with those u-bolts. I have at times gave up, cut the u-bolts, removed the hub and used a 10 ton press to push out the stubs. Then bought new u-bolts and reinstalled the hub.
 
Save yourself the trouble and just cut them off and be done with it. Maibach has new ones on the shelf with nuts and washers. Last set I bought was going only like 19 bucks a bolt if I remember right. Cheapest you will find them anywhere and youll be done in an hour rather than days and youll know the bolts arent compromised from all the heating and beating.
 
you did not try my advise. block the tractor up. the wheels must be off so you only have them hubs on the axle. do the hammer thing as i said do the air punch also. and yes it can take a bunch of time. you need to vibrate the housing where the bolts go through. not much benefit in cuttting them as you are still left with the bolts seized in the hub. last year i spent 4 hrs vibrating and hammering the rear rim off an oliver 88. totally seized to the hub from calcium. the other side only took me 2 hrs. so be prepared for hrs of work if they are stuck as tight as you say. still say your sledge hammers are your best friends here. plus driving around will do nothing to welded rust, its the same as a weld.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top