Have you ever ?

SVcummins

Well-known Member
Used jb weld to fill a groove like this in a shaft made it smooth and made a new surface for the seal to ride on?
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My cousin built up some front idlers on his track tractor with it and they lasted a long time . He also built up a roller in a round baler with it and worked so I thought I try it
 
Not me but dad has.
Also watched my dad fill in grooves on v belt pulleys so the belt would last longer.

Also amazed when dad comes across a v pulley with two notches broken out from failed attempts at removal by means of 2 jaw puller.
Dad welds up the notches, then uses jb Weld to smooth out the pulley so the belt will live longer
 
Worked on a New Holland L785 skid loader with leaking wheel seals, shafts were so worn I put JB Weld under the speedy sleeves. Still not leaking 10 years later.
 
Only temporary. If the seal wore the metal shaft, it will wear the jb weld. The company I worked for 45 years ago use to tell me to take the shaft out of a gear box with the worn seal groove and chuck in a lathe and cut a deeper groove. Then brase it up and turn it back down in a pinch. Brass is still softer than steel. I don't know how long it lasted as it went out the door.
 
(quoted from post at 03:28:34 06/24/21) Only temporary. If the seal wore the metal shaft, it will wear the jb weld. The company I worked for 45 years ago use to tell me to take the shaft out of a gear box with the worn seal groove and chuck in a lathe and cut a deeper groove. Then brase it up and turn it back down in a pinch. Brass is still softer than steel. I don't know how long it lasted as it went out the door.

It took DECADES for a rubber seal to wear the groove in the steel shaft. If the JB weld lasts a few years, seems like you'd be ahead of the game. Heck it may last as long as you need it to.

Ideally you'd get a machinist to spray weld and cut a new surface, but have you checked shop rates lately? Also the machine will be down while you wait for the machine shop to get to the job, which could be weeks.

If SVcummins had seen it work so well and was already convinced to try it, why did he ask the question in the first place?
 
I've used JB to hold a Redi Sleeve on, and so far it's working.

The sleeve was more a slip fit than press and the shaft was rust pitted.
 

Is this on your truck axle? Just curious, what modification would you need to make on a sleeve for that application? There should be a couple different widths available. I have installed them on truck axles without modification.

Also, look into a unitized wheel seal, the type commonly used in newer oil bath hub applications. The inner part of the seal goes on the spindle and grips/seals. It doesn't turn on the spindle, the seal is two parts and turns within itself. JB weld would work fine to fill the groove using that type seal.
 
Tractor or truck if tractor yes I did it on a mf65 diesel, it's still going after 10 years. If on a truck I wouldn't think it would last that long, but the other side is rubber and is a lot softer than JB.
 
Devcon is what you want.....used in industry for years. Build it up and turn it down with a lathe or it can be sanded. I've used it on exhaust manifolds with 100% success.
 
If you have access to a lathe, you an turn down the shaft to make the ready-sleeve (or speedy sleeve) fit. The sleeve usually adds 0.022 to the diameter. The seal is expected to flex to accommodate this extra 0.022 diameter.

For example, I had a 1.131 shaft--no sleeve would fit. However, the nominal 1.125 sleeve will fit shafts between 1.122 and 1.127, but enlarges the shaft to between 1.144 and 1.149. I turned the shaft down to 1.125 and installed the sleeve, which brought it up to 1.147, which is the original size + 0.016--well within the capability of the seal. Good luck. Dave
 
(quoted from post at 13:28:17 06/24/21) I have some devvon but I decided to order the speedy sleeve anyway

The other option (IF possible to do so) would be to install the seal a little "deeper" or "shallower" so the lip will ride on unworn steel.

One other point, sometimes the replacement seal is made a little differently or a "sub" from another company and the lip will be located a little differently and will wear on a different spot with NO change in how "deep" the seal is installed.

Have you check the new seal vs. the old seal closely?
 
Not on an axle but on the final drive on my D Handle 1/2 drill motor.
I then took it to a machine shop to turn it down true for a new thrust bearing.
Still use it.
 

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