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International 354 ignition

G

GreenAcre

Member
Hi, -I recently acquired a 354 from a
deceased friend's son. Don't know anything
about them. Hadn't been running for a
while, and he had a local shade tree do a
tune-up and didn't hook up the resistor to
the coil and blew it out. I checked the
coil and it's good. Points weren't opening
but still no fire so I'm assuming
condensor. I like pertronix and am
thinking of doing that instead. Main
question is why would there be what looks
like an original resistor mounted to it in
the first place if they were all 12 volt? -
I know I need a manual, but I'd like to
first just get it going. Thanks.
 
Many machines had a resistor as original equipment. Full voltage would be supplied to the coil through an extra contact on the starter solenoid for starting. Then reduced voltage would be supplied through the regular ignition circuit, through the resistor, to the coil for running.
 
(quoted from post at 08:17:52 06/07/21) Hi, -I recently acquired a 354 from a
deceased friend's son. Don't know anything
about them. Hadn't been running for a
while, and he had a local shade tree do a
tune-up and didn't hook up the resistor to
the coil and blew it out. I checked the
coil and it's good. Points weren't opening
but still no fire so I'm assuming
condensor. I like pertronix and am
thinking of doing that instead. Main
question is why would there be what looks
like an original resistor mounted to it in
the first place if they were all 12 volt? -
I know I need a manual, but I'd like to
first just get it going. Thanks.
Click to expand...


IH commonly used a ballast resistor and a 6 Volt coil in their 12 Volt ignition systems and had a setup that bypassed the resistor during cranking for a hotter spark while the battery voltage is drawn down by the starter load.

For more insight into this you can peruse the manuals at the links below.

You will have to copy the links and paste them into the address bar in your browser as they do not support direct linking.

Should be very helpful.

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/GSS-1310%20Electrical/index.html

http://farmallcub.com/rudi_cub/www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue%20Ribbon%20Service%20Manuals/FOS-20%20Chapter%206-Ignition%20Circuits/index.html
 
Even if you go with the Pertronix conversion, you still need to get the coil/resistor situation sorted out. Get it wrong and it will over load the electronics and burn it out.

The goal is to have either a true 12v coil and no resistor (which someone may have already done), or have a 6v coil and a 1.5 ohm resistor. The end result is about 3 ohms resistance across the coil primary including the resistor in series (if needed).

Be sure to go by what is printed on the coil, not what the counter man sells you, (they are often misboxed) or check the ohms before you buy it. The NAPA IC14SB is a true 12v coil if you need one.

Pertrinix may try to sell you an expensive high performance coil, it is not necessary and of no benefit on a tractor engine.
 
A. What ..blew out..?
B. What is your definition of ..no fire..? Not starting or checked for no spark? Check by holding the coil wire that would normally be in the distributor cap center 3/16 in. away from block while cranking.
C. Points were not opening? You corrected this and set them to a 0.020 in. gap with the rubbing block on the high distributor cam lobe?
Then we can go from there.
This is probably all systematically laid out in the IH ignition manuals wore out posted links to.
 
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