undercoatng 2010 chevrolet

wilson ind

Well-known Member
Checked with z teck on best under coat; They di not remove any panels as i front has soft panel around
?wheel. extra charge to remove aby panel Thinking NO How about anybody use fluid film??
 
(quoted from post at 14:20:24 05/19/21) Checked with z teck on best under coat; They di not remove any panels as i front has soft panel around
?wheel. extra charge to remove aby panel Thinking NO How about anybody use fluid film??
on't know, but just thinking outloud....isn't an 11 year wait too long?
 
Any undercoating at this point will be sealing in the rust you can't see, and promoting it. Some form of a oil is your best bet to slow down what rust is there, provided you don't park on a clean concrete driveway (it will drip for a while.

Rust proofing is best applied on a new car.
 
Bill,
I never heard of fluid film before, so I googled it.
Here is what I found.

FLUID FILM is not formulated to remove rust. However, if applied over existing rust, it will stop it immediately from spreading further. FLUID FILM will penetrate rust and rust scale to the base metal, loosening and easing in the removal process.

FLUID FILM provides slick, lasting lubrication that could last up to 36 months in locks, or hinges and seat tracks under normal operating conditions. It also keeps locks from freezing, even in sub-zero temperatures.

Fluid Film is an annual application. Bring your vehicle to AUTEX before the winter season, and your vehicle will be protected against corrosion for 12 months in most environments.

Does Ztech apply Fluid film?

When Z tech undercoated my 07 GMC when it was new, they drilled holes and plugged them later to apply undercoating. Didn't remove any panels.

Does your 2010 have rust holes?
No rust on my 2007,
 
Im not sure what kind of product z teck is. Ive never experienced it. Is it waxy based coating ? I once bought a 1993 ford f 150 a couple years old. I took it to a place called Ziebart uncoating. Their product was almost like a product a thick wax. Didnt hold up at all. All it did was peel. The truck was pretty clean when I took it in. I wasnt happy. In my area of Western New York with all the salt I have had my truck sprayed by Carwell, and have used fluid film. I have also mixed diesel with used oil and done my own. On a brand new vehicle a waxy product might work. My truck gets driven over 15,000 miles a year through ever weather condition. I would suggest an oil based product. My current truck is showing rust bubbles. I bought it 2 years ago and its a 2012. Im trying to slow down the rust. A heavy coating will only hold the moisture.
 
I bought a 2010 chevy last year that was exceptionally clean for its considering it's from Ohio/Michigan. It only had a couple of bubbles starting over rear wheels.

I powerwashed the underside(which was a rather unpleasant job). I also pulled tail lights and washed inside of bed panels as best I could. I then hosed it down with Fluid film. I pulled all the door panels, tail lights, and head lights to get it pretty much everywhere.

It's probably to soon to say, but I haven't noticed the wheel wells getting any worse. I'll probably go over the underside again soon, but I don't think I'll be pulling any door panels this time around.

I think the gallon of fluid film was 30 or $40 and the sprayer was $90ish. Pretty cheap if it works.
 
... I(t) has NEVER been on salt road its stored from early October till late april or usually may... Well I am not sure what you are worried about, if this is how you are going to continue using it?? Some peoples coin purses are just to fat.
 
I sprayed fluid film on some battery boxes one time and it was hot the next day I couldnt figure where the gawd awful stench was coming it was that fluid film smelled just like a sheep truck in July in hell Ive never used it ever again . It is made from sheep wool lanolin
 

Local bodyshop owner I trust uses Fluid Film on older vehicles and likes it. Says an annual application after a thorough wash inside cavities and out. For new vehicles he uses the cosmoline that is available now. ZERO rust with that stuff.
 
Thanks for the warnings. I've never used it. Never heard of it before Mr. Wilson posted it.

I use phosphoric acid, which smells too, to reduce rust back to iron.

Then I paint with rustoleum primer.
 
(quoted from post at 06:05:56 05/20/21) Thanks for the warnings. I've never used it. Never heard of it before Mr. Wilson posted it.

I use phosphoric acid, which smells too, to reduce rust back to iron.

Then I paint with rustoleum primer.


Geo, you have been making a big deal of a smell from phosphoric acid. I have been using it regularly for 49 years, and have yet to notice a significant smell.
 
(quoted from post at 15:13:57 05/20/21)
(quoted from post at 06:05:56 05/20/21) Thanks for the warnings. I've never used it. Never heard of it before Mr. Wilson posted it.

I use phosphoric acid, which smells too, to reduce rust back to iron.

Then I paint with rustoleum primer.


Geo, you have been making a big deal of a smell from phosphoric acid. I have been using it regularly for 49 years, and have yet to notice a significant smell.

Well he also claims it turn rust back into iron!!!!!!

:shock:
 
(quoted from post at 15:47:15 05/19/21) Musty recommends spraying on diluted bar and chain oil

Or used motor oil, any type.
Then as soon as possible go for a drive down every dusty dirt road you can find for 100 miles worth.
That will stop the dripping and the oil treatment will last longer.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top