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tractor season just started off with a problem

G

gotmyfarm!

Member
First start of the season today for the IH 666 diesel. Started right up and let it run for a few minutes. Put it in 1st was going to go for a short ride around to get used to it again. Try to start moving and the left rear wheel spun. Tried one more time with a little more rpm and still going nowhere, just spinning. I didn't think the tires had sunk into the ground very much, but I guessed they must've. I shoveled out a nice area around all 4 tires and thought it would be good now. Tried again and it went for ward a foot. Stopped. turned the wheel to the left to give the non spinning wheel more of a job to do to help the spinning left wheel. Tried again and got clear of the place where it had been parked all winter, but it was driving very jerky and just felt wrong. I shut the tractor off and got off to look at things. Well... that's when I noticed that the right wheel had no been turning at all. The spinning left wheel had done all the work and the right one had just skidded along. I haven't done any checking of anything yet, as I wanted to get some suggestions of what to do. Could the right break just be stuck? I googles this problem and people mentioned to someone else, the shifting could be stuck in two gears, but I really don't think that was my problem. I never dreamed of this happening. I always expect that at least the wheels will turn!
 
I would bet a brake is stuck. Try holding the other and trying to
move. Try both forward and back.
 
Break is stuck. Is there a place to spray some pb in there and then work the peddle rapidly. Hold other break on while going back and forth.
 
Brake is stuck but DO NOT spray the brake pads with any type of oil or you will have bigger problems. Check that all brake linkage is free to move. If I remember right that tractor would have disk brakes and good chance the pads are rusted up and or just flat out stuck together. Time to open up the brakes and clean things up. Clean the ball between the brakes and clean up the pads with brake cleaner spray but DO NOT put oil or any type on the pads
 
Don't use lube on the discs or they will be ruined. It's not
uncommon for brakes or clutch to stick when they have been
sitting. For one winters time they should let loose with
reasonable force. Hold the other brake so that wheel don't
turn and apply short relatively hard application of the clutch in
both directions. Don't smoke your clutch tho.
 
if it the brake stuck, just loosen the bolts on the drum! then drive around then tighten back up. did that many times. quick and easy job.
and if you have lots of time just remove drum and clean up the rust for a good job.
 
Soak it good and get it moving freely then tear it apart clean
everything with brake pad cleaner not break parts cleaner . It
could be just the linkage is stuck to
 
I just went out and tried holding the other wheel's brake and trying to break the stuck wheel loose. Nothing gave. Tried several times forward and backward. I'm thinking I'll have to take it apart there in the field and clean all the brake parts. I need to get cleaner. Also, I'm sure it looks like the whole tire is toed in at the top a little. I can fit my fist between the good tire and the fender, but not at all on the stuck wheel side. I don't know, maybe it's just not sitting on exactly level ground. How could that huge tire be crooked? Also, since I'm here with problems, the hydraulic 3 point arms aren't working. I think I'm going to have to take that apart also and I'm thinking maybe it'll need new seals and maybe new relief valve I think it's called. Not starting off good this year.
 
For the others who are helping: Is there a part of that wheel assembly she can lightly tap on with a hammer that might free up the pads? Often works with stuck drum brakes, but someone hear suggested these are discs.

Just a thought,

Gerrit
 
RedMF40, I have my books out and it says they are double disc brakes. Right now, I feel like I should just go back to working on the house and mowing the lawn with the push mower. Things I can easily handle. :lol:
 
RedMF40, You know why this is all happening. Last month I finally threw away my farming pants. The ones that were 90% duct tape and 10% jeans. That, and as a few have mentioned, the evil number of my favorite tractor. I'm going to mow the lawn now and let all these problems sink in for the night and wake up tomorrow and deal with them.
 
(quoted from post at 15:13:53 05/11/21) RedMF40, I have my books out and it says they are double disc brakes. Right now, I feel like I should just go back to working on the house and mowing the lawn with the push mower. Things I can easily handle. :lol:
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good idea to take a few steps back and evaluate, get on with other things. I like that approach.

Might be one of those rare cases where you can actually fix it with a hammer, though :)

Gerrit
 
Look at the axle shaft where it comes out of the cast housing and before it goes into the wheel clamp. Gauge the distance in
your head. Now look at the other side (that turns) if they are different by the amount your fist fits or does not fit, That
is that issue. If they are the same distance out, put a level (vertically on the moving tire side wall and note the bubble
position. Then the side that seems tipped. If the same, good, if different, don't try to break it free, it could do radical
damage beyond what is broken now. Was it left in the field for a reason? Jim
 
Was it left in the field for a reason? Jim[/quote]

It was shedded all winter. She said she just took it out for the first time this season.

Gerrit
 
Rustred down below has the right answer: just unloosen your right side
brake drum bolts and drive the tractor. The brakes are mechanical, and
are located just ahead of the axle. DO NOT spray any oil in there.
Make sure the pedal linkage is free and returns to released position.
You can observe everything by looking under the right side and placing
your hand on the pedal. Another thing is to try to back up just a
little bit, or rock gently back and forth. These are the types of
problems that happen when something sets for a while. The 666 is
actually a pretty good tractor. Good luck, Mark.
 
Janicholson, If these things don't add up, what is it that might be broken and could get even more broken? Some piece inside that is part of the axle? Maybe something broke when I was trying to drive it today before I realized the wheel wasn't moving. I can't imagine anything would break by itself during winter. I just came in from mowing the lawn, so I might not get back out until tomorrow to check that.
 
Did you leave it parked all winter with the brakes locked on? Do you try to back up?? Sometimes when brakes stick, you can back up a little and they will break free. I don't understand why one side would be leaning in, Look where the axle comes out of the housing to see if it is the same all of the way around or if the axle is closer to the top of the housing than the bottom. Pictures would help a lot!!
 
If it was sheded over the winter, the only thing I can think of is Ice in the final drives causing a broken part. If the
wheels are less than a quarter bubble different it could be tire out of round causing the issue. If you put the level
vertically against the wheel casting on both wheels they should be very close to the same, maybe just detectably closer on
the top of the level. A failed inner ball bearing at the bull gear with balls out of place, and the axle crooked (down on
the inner end) and the pinion that drives it in a bind. It is possible. I don't know the chances of that on a 666. Pete 23,
or D Slater are more likely to know. A broken axle would be very unlikely, as it would turn and not slide. The brake being
rusted stuck is most likely. As stated by others if the wheels are straight, loosen the bolts holding the round brake
housing onto the frame, (maybe three turns each) and whack (modestly) the housing to get it to separate from the tractor
frame casting. Were the brake pedals locked down for the winter? (don't do that, block the tractor in place). Jim
 
No, I didn't leave the brakes locked on. That's not something I ever do unless a special situation that would for some reason need it. It was stored outside last winter and I'm happy to say for a very good reason: I made enough square bales to completely fill the whole barn, so none of the tractors or equipment could fit in there. Normally both tractors are always in the barn unless being used. I have room now and was going to drive it in today to work on the 3 point problem. Only got 10 feet or less. 250 more feet to go. I'll do the measuring and leveling in the morning. I'll get pictures if it seems like the wheel really is tilted.
 
evil number of my favorite tractor

I had to laugh. My neighbor bought a new 666, and his mother was horrified when the dealer brought it out. She wanted her son to send it back, but he didn't. It was a good dependable tractor that outlived it's owner.
 
The tractor does not have suspension so the wheel would not get physically closer to the fender at the top simply because the tractor was not sitting level.

There are two "normal" reasons, and one "bad" reason for that happening.

Normal reason 1: The tread width is set closer on that side.
Normal reason 2: The fender is set wider on that side, or is bent.

Bad reason 1: Axle bearings have come apart. Most likely you were blissfully driving it around like that for a while. It didn't happen just sitting there.
 
(quoted from post at 23:23:48 05/11/21) evil number of my favorite tractor

I had to laugh. My neighbor bought a new 666, and his mother was horrified when the dealer brought it out. She wanted her son to send it back, but he didn't. It was a good dependable tractor that outlived it's owner.
Click to expand...

Poor mother! :lol: I can understand that. I refused to even consider this one at first, but I really liked the look of it and I finally went to check it out, and when I saw and heard it in person, I bought it right away. It is a great tractor despite the problems it's having right now.
 
Here are the measuring and leveling results. Doesn't look good to me. I'll put up a few pics after this if I can.
Shaft is 1/4" different. 9 1/2" long on good left side, 9 1/4" long on bad right side.
Space between top of tires and fenders are 2" different. 3 5/8" on good left side, 1 5/8" on bad right side.
Level bubble is also off. I'll try to get pics of that, and note that I took the pictures from back of tractor on good left side and from the front of tractor on bad right side, so just pretent you are looking at one of them from the other side. You can still see the bubble is not the same on the tires.
 
I guess pics are both taken from the front, facing rearward. Shad threw me off. Bubbles not at all the same.
mvphoto75143.jpg


mvphoto75144.jpg
 
What is the condition of the rubber boot on the rod that
sticks out of the right brake? Does it have a hole big
enough for a mouse to go through? If so you need to pull
the bolts loose on the cover and reveal the mouse nest in
there. That is the only thing that I could think of that would
lock up one of those brakes that tight in that short of time. If
that IS NOT found to be the problem more investigating is
needed. I am sorry, but those picture tells me zero, they
may be clear as day to you....but I am not there. You need
to take a picture of the gap between the wheel and fender
of each side standing straight behind the gap so we can
see the whole fender top to bottom. Then one standing
squarely behind the tractor so we can see the full height of
both wheels. Secondly, it would be ideal if you had an 8ft
2x4 you could lean up against the tires and set it vertically
level..as in hood the level on it.. may require wire or bungee to hold the top. Take a
picture of that for both sides so we can see the full height
of the wheels. If it is actually something in the rear end you
can pull the pivot block for the top 3 point link and look in
there for what the cause might be. I will place a link here to
the CNHI parts page for your tractor, in section 07-32,
which is on the 2nd page of the list, shows the rear axle
drive layout. Shaft 10 has the brake on the outer end. It
drives the Bull gear 20 which is on the inside end of the
wheel axle shaft. The bull gear and axle assembly is in
section 07-33.
CNHI 666 drive train parts pages
 
Okay, there you go photos that actually tell me something. I myself do not see enough difference there to indicate a
problem. It looks to me like the right fender is sprung slightly making it look different. See my other post ..mouse nest..
theory. Pull brake apart, if that is not your problem then checking the difference in the axle lean that is that subtle, would
require the 2x4 and level method suggested in my other reply. You want the 2x4 straight up and down per the level so you
can actually measure the difference to compare side to side.
 
used red MN, the rubber boot looks good, no holes. I went out earlier to take apart the whole brake assembly but had to stop because I don't have a 7/8" deep socket to get into the bowl shaped area to get that second bigger nut of the rod. I'm going to town now to get one and to get more brakes cleaner. I went over to the Farmall M and finished that tractor up: All fluids and filters changed and all zirks greased and I might try that one out later today along with the sickle. The Bell jar on that tractor has a crack. Hopefully it will hold until I find a new one. And there is a leak on the shaft of the big left wheel of the M. It's leaking very slow at a seam in the metal parts, like maybe there is a gasket there that is leaking... I haven't looked at my parts books for that one yet. More concerned about the 666 right now. The cat says, "Is it time to go back in the house yet and take a nap?". He didn't hand around that cold metal tractor for too long this morning because it was 28F! I think he went to find a warmer spot in the barn.
 
(quoted from post at 15:20:04 05/11/21) RedMF40, You know why this is all happening. Last month I finally threw away my farming pants. The ones that were 90% duct tape and 10% jeans. That, and as a few have mentioned, the evil number of my favorite tractor. I'm going to mow the lawn now and let all these problems sink in for the night and wake up tomorrow and deal with them.
Click to expand...

The jeans are to blame more than the tractor model. Is there any way to get them back?

Gerrit
 
One half a bubble is probably in the tire. I would have you put the level on the actual cast iron wheel. But the other images look pretty good.
Jim
 
Just loosen the bolts holding the brake housing to the frame. Don't remove the brake from the tractor, it is not necessary until another attempt to
drive it. the brake discs rub on the actual tractor, so loosening the housing loosens the actual discs. Jim
 
RedMF40, no, the tape jeans are long gone. I DID get out my disco hat today, so the other tractor liked that and we sickle mowed a whole field. Going to make some surprise bales. Just junk bales to test everything out and get the baler shiny again. That field had some dead standing grass and foxtail, and only short new good grass, so I don't think I would want to feed that. Foxtail seeds aren't nice. You have to floss the horses' teeth after eating that.
 
(quoted from post at 17:12:28 05/12/21) RedMF40, no, the tape jeans are long gone. I DID get out my disco hat today, so the other tractor liked that and we sickle mowed a whole field. Going to make some surprise bales. Just junk bales to test everything out and get the baler shiny again. That field had some dead standing grass and foxtail, and only short new good grass, so I don't think I would want to feed that. Foxtail seeds aren't nice. You have to floss the horses' teeth after eating that.
Click to expand...

gotmyfarm! Sounds like things are moving in the right direction, disco hat and all. I remember you posted on here about rebuilding an old baler that pretty much needed everything. I'm sure you can handle this situation with the 666, even if you have to duct tape a new pair of tractor jeans. Wishing you the best from Maryland :)

Gerrit
 
Today's update, so far. I just got the whole brake assembly off and am about to clean things and then put it all back together and then turn it on and see if the wheel moves. There was no mouse nest in there or anything, just some dry black brake-stuff particles. The right disk didn't just slide off the shaft. I had to use a long screwdriver to get it free and started moving. So I'm hoping that the wheel issue is, in fact, that the disc was stuck, and not that some internal tractor part is broken because the tire looks a little tilted. Hoping, hoping I am fixing the issue right now! Be back soon for the result!
 
The result! Put back the brakes and adjusted the pedals' play correctly and... ta-da, ALL the wheels turn and it feels GREAT! Thanks for all the replies everyone! Next for this tractor is to fix the hydraulics. The 3 point goes up and down by itself :shock: That might be a different topic. Now I'm going to see if I can get the 3 point arms off, so if it goes up or down without me telling it to, it won't catch on whatever it might be that I'm pulling back there. Planning on raking today and tomorrow, and baling tomorrow with this tractor. The baler uses the pto though.. that'll work, won't it, even if the 3pt isn't working right? The very last time I used the 3 pt last fall, it stayed raised. Wouldn't lower back down until I messed with both levers, the raise/lower lever and the draft/heavy/light lever. The pto even at the end of the season last year seems to be working great.
 
Gotmyfarm! that's great, one of the best feelings ever when you get through a repair and know it's fixed. Especially when it seemed like a huge problem that may or may not involve broken axles, gears or whatever.

There are better authorities here, but your PTO should work fine without your 3 Pt working like it should, unless for some reason you have to lift something up to make it run behind the tractor. Two different systems, PTO and 3 Pt.

Congrats on the repair, cat will be happy too as he now has a nice warm hood to sleep on when your bring it in from the field :)


Gerrit
 
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