Electric guages

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super99

Well-known Member
I've been fixing up the Oliver 1550 that I bought for tractor rides. The chrome rings around the guages were rusted really bad, so I replaced them with some used guages that I had. The old temp guage worked like it should, the one I replaced it with stays on cold for a while and then pegs the needle to hot. It has a new radiator and is full of antifreeze. When it did it, I stopped and touched the radiator cap and coolant hoses going to the Hydra Power cooler and they were warm but not too hot to touch, so I think it's the guage. Does it make any difference which way the wires are hooked to the guage? It could be the sending unit, but it all stopped working when I changed the guage. I think I'll put the old one back in and see what happens.
The gas guage stays on full all of the time. I put a new sending unit in the tank and a different used guage on it. I have had new sending units that had a spade for a ground wire, but this one didn't have one on it. The old guage didn't work, but I thought it was the sending unit, and a new one came with the tractor, so I replaced it. Any ideas??
 
The only sending unit that I changed was in the gas tank. I have a multi meter but I would have to find the directions to figure out how to use it for that.
 
(quoted from post at 21:41:49 04/27/21) The only sending unit that I changed was in the gas tank. I have a multi meter but I would have to find the directions to figure out how to use it for that.

Not all gauges and sending units match, the ohm ranges may be different. Gauges and senders work as a set, the set is designed with an electrical match. Yes, you can measure the scales of both and may find a match, but I never had much luck with mixing random gauges and senders (not saying you can't purchase a sender to replace an OEM one, if you know the gauge and sender are OEM). Best to replace them as a matched set if you want accurate readings. JMHO, others may differ.
 

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