4020 injection pump

SVcummins

Well-known Member
Hopefully these new fangled washers and new used lower pump housing will clean this ugly leaking pump up and make it nice again
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Wellllllll, I don't know. They sure look like the ones that I got and I still have the leak.
 
Those mild steel washers will crush a bit like copper, seat the bolt snug with two new washers, then turn 1/2 turn more and you're done. Most guys don't get them tight enough, and the hard steel washers Stanadyne #16225 are very hard to get sealed sometimes. I've had much better luck with the CAV 5936 332C washers which is what you have on the card.
 
I never could get the hard ones to even think of sealing . I used aluminum and if I went to tight they leaked like a sieve backed em a bit and that was a Just seep that I could stand to live with
 
These new washers seemed to crush nice . Replaced. The rubber boots the old ones still have a Roosa master stamp the new ones have a big s for Stanadyne . W
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Where can I get a new plug for the fuel shutoff solenoid
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I'll have to ask my diesel shop about those CAV washers. Probably every year for three years since I got the pump done I try tightening that one leaky one again. May be I need a longer cheater pipe on my wrench.
 
You got lucky with the aluminum washers on your model C pump. If aluminum is used on the DB/DC/JDB/JDC pumps the line banjo bolt WILL bottom out, head/rotor WILL seize and on the DB/JDB pumps the drive shaft WILL break. Same thing happens if one of the two steel sealing washers are left off by accident too...
 
I know, unsolicited advice.... but get rid of that pump and get the big one. yes you will need the lines, but it will run better, and you can actually get the pump rebuilt.
 
I found going to tight to make em leak worse with the last
washers I tried going to the torque spec and if sprayed fuel
backed it off and it was a slow seep
 
Shes dynoes 115 horsepower now . It will start in any weather when you crack the throttle she tries to send you off the back
 

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