Landpride mower blade removal

Hello guys. Got this 6 foot landpride rotary mower that I'm trying to figure out how to get the blade bracket off so I can weld up the breaks in the round guard. Got the nut and washer off. Will try to post some pics. Thanks.

After removing the lock nut you will need to use a puller to pull it off, THe shaft to blade is keyed. Nut buster spray certainly
can't hurt.CM

(quoted from post at 00:31:56 04/06/21) Hello guys. Got this 6 foot landpride rotary mower that I'm trying to figure out how to get the blade bracket off so I can weld up the breaks in the round guard. Got the nut and washer off. Will try to post some pics. Thanks.

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Use a puller. The splined gear box shaft and blade holder are likely a tapered fit, many are. You have to be careful with heat, if you use any on the holder, to not damage the gear box seal.

You'll need a big puller. If it doesn't pop right off, lots of heat should do the trick. Heat the bracket; if you heat the shaft you can damage the gearbox seal.

As said, a big puller and heat.

But start the nut back on to protect the threads and contain it when it does pop off.

Just took one off yesterday gear puller and hammer was all it took. Popped right off.

Well I have a little puller, hopefully it will be enough. Looks like that blade bracket is part of a hub. Where on the bracket or hub should I apply the heat? Is this a procedure where I heat it, apply some wax in there if it will take any, and then douse it with water to break it loose? Or just heat it up and use some wax or WD and then work on with a hammer without cooling it?

Didn't think about putting the nut back on. Thanks.

Besides some broken welds where that guard attaches to the bracket, one of the blades doesn't turn easy so it must have something stuck to it or something could be bent.

Bot it on Purplewave and like everything else I've bot from them, they are selling them at auction for a reason and the reason is because everything is busted, rusted, bent, and broken. There is a lot of things pictures don't show. Got a 6' planning to get a bigger tractor but ended up buying that Ford 1500. Hooked it up this week after I got some long bolts/pins since it is a cat 2 and it ran ok as is with no loud noises and it didn't seem out of balance. The Ford 3 point would pick up the front end allright but not quite enough to get the rear wheel off the ground. Think it will mow ok that way. Going to try shortening the top link some more. The mower mount has a bracket on the top link that will rotate up and down which I learned reading here that it should help when mowing over rough ground.

Thanks.

I have a 1500, they are only 19hp, a little under powered and light for a 6 foot rotary cutter. Just my experience. I hope it does what you want.

Garry

I understand Garry. Bot it before the tractor and have been looking for a 5 footer. It pulled it around the yard with the blades spinning so once I get the blades off and welded up I will see how it does in the pasture. Since I can't pick it up very far I'll have to be careful about getting high centered in ditches. Still need to weld it if I wanted to sell it. Put some heat on the hub today without a puller, worked on it with a sledge hammer, and didn't have any luck. Will have to rig up a hydraulic jack and chain set up tomorrow.

If you have a puller and an air hammer, thats usually what works for me. Put some good tension on the puller and buzz the air hammer on the blade holder. I've also just used an air hammer on the end of the shaft, probably want to put the nut on loose to protect the threads and not let the holder fly off.

A friend of mine suggested a long time ago to leave nut loose and engage pto and drive around for bit and it will vibrate itself loose. Without preaching about the safety aspects, I bet it would work but I never had to go that far.

(quoted from post at 00:17:27 04/07/21)

A friend of mine suggested a long time ago to leave nut loose and engage pto and drive around for bit and it will vibrate itself loose. Without preaching about the safety aspects, I bet it would work but I never had to go that far.

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I would bet on what would happen. The nut would vibrate off first never to be found. Then the blades out the front into the tractor.

Still trying. Rigged up a 20 ton hydraulic jack as a puller and heated it twice. Will see if it pops loose on its own. Figured out landpride has a cover plate on top so you can loosen the blade nuts and also use a bar to sledge hammer the blade mount loose. Since I have it on its side I couldn't get any leverage to pound it loose.