Bought the Case

grandpa Love

Well-known Member
Any idea what the little box thing on
front of motor is? Just the tip of dip
stick had oil on it. Filled it up. Put
ATF in plug holes. Fresh battery and
starter tries to turn, motor will move,
but just a tiny bit, won't spin over.
Can I try to turn it with a socket?
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Good photos ..... you cut a pretty good deal I would say. I think that little mystery box is a traffic sensor. It signals when another driver is approaching from the side or from behind while parked in traffic. That gives you time to escape as long as there is a space between you and the guy in front of you. Sorry, I just can't get that previous discussion topic out of my mind.
 
The box is the fuel pump. There is a vacuum hose hooked to the back that goes to the crank case. Looks like they have abandoned it for some other kind of pump. Be careful with other pumps because they will put out too much pressure.
 
I did not know it had three point hitch that alone is 500.00 that is not the original engine either,, not that it matters just saying you got a great buy
 
If the box thing was a fuel pump it would have 3 hoses connected to it. 2 would be fuel lines and third would be a vacuum hose.
No idea what it is. Doesn't look like any fuel pump I've seen. Trace the fuel line and you will find fuel pump.

Pull the plugs and see if starter will freely spin the engine.
George
 
You done good Kevin.
Do like was said below and take the plug out and keep soaking it.
Might want to see if you can see valve movement through the plug hole and keep soaking with ATF.
No need to rush the soaking process.
That will be a very handy garden tractor even if you have to put a a HF engine in it.
Richard
 
You should be able to turn it by the flywheel nut IF all is well.

But if it's stuck or seized, be careful not to twist it off!

Better to pry against the flywheel gear.

It may have rat packings in a cylinder. They can get into some strange places!
 
That's great Grandpa. Ya finally got a good tractor on the ranch. Those are great little tractors. RB
 
Find the tag on the engine. That will help ID the ignition type for troubleshooting if you get it turning. Or look for a little box containing points on the top, rear of the engine. It's missing the front PTO but that's not a big deal unless you wanted to add a mower deck.

As for turning, will it turn backwards after it stops? Low on oil makes me think of a broken rod. Onans are very good engines, but are known to do that when low on oil. They can be expensive to fix, but don't have to be if you do it yourself and it's not torn up too bad. I have a lot of parts that I've stashed from owning and repairing a lot of those. I have 3 or 4 right now. Onan, Kohler and briggs powered.
 
I have two of those P series Onans, P218 and P220. I've never under stood the proper way to check the oil, I can park either one for months, pull the stick and it reads about two inches overfull. Vacum in the dipstick tube holds the oil up in the tube. When I shut them off I loosen the dipstick, throw a rag over the cap and let the hood up until net time.
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Mine is the same, always have to wipe the dipstick. First time I've ever seen that. Confused me at first wondering where the oil came from or went to.
 
The cub I got the other day was the same way. Hit the starter and the fan would jump a bit but not spin over. I filled the cylinders with ATF and let it sit a while and then it spun over but part of why it would not spin over was valves that are stuck. Give the ATF time to soak in and free things up
 
Again I've been working on riding mowers most of my life. I'VE only seen round ones.
Not saying there aren't metal square fuel pumps. My oldest garden tractor is over 30 years old. Round.
I have a 20 year old Honda, round.


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When I see a square one I'll post a picture.
 
Had one I bought in a 446 Case like this one. Rod and piston on one side were pounded into a cup full of small pieces. Cost over a $1000 in parts and machine work to repair.
 
Don't bother, I don't care. Just don't mislead other posters on the subject. Some come here for real advice and misleading information can cost them money, time or both.
 
That's common on any small engine with the plastic riser tube.

When the engine is stopped, the hot air inside the tube cools and contracts, drawing oil up inside the tube.

Loosen the cap give it a few seconds to level out, then check the oil. See the owners manual, some want the level checked with the cap screwed down, some sitting on top of the threads.
 
It may be the valves need adjusting, to get the auto compression release working like it should. Oil in the cylinders will help lube those dry cylinders.
 
(quoted from post at 17:06:49 03/31/21) It may be the valves need adjusting, to get the auto compression release working like it should. Oil in the cylinders will help lube those dry cylinders.

"the valves need adjusting, to get the auto compression release working like it should"

NOTHING wrong with verifying the valve/tappet setting, but NO "ACR" on those Onans to worry about.
 

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