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Main bearing caps

S

SVcummins

Well-known Member
Does this look good to you? Im inclined to clean it up a little more
cvphoto82826.png
 
It looks OK to me but it hard to tell by a picture, if you decide to clean it, use very light emery cloth or similar, you do not want to remove metal.
 
I have 3 different brushes in my washing pail. One is a piece of a wire brush for scrubbing hard to get off things a plastic with a copper brush in the end and a 2 inch paint brush for slopping solvent up on to parts to wash them off after the scrubbing. I would thing the brown crud would come off. Then with Plastigage you can check for evenness across the bearing to see if they are not true to the crank with the bearing tight.
 
A ScotchBrite pad will really clean those caps up. It gives the bearing shell better heat transfer for the oil that comes through.
 
Well from what i see i would be putting the Mic.'s to it and checking for out of round or better yet a bore gauge . As that looks like a low spot . But that is just me .
 
Thats what I was thinking too . Thought they were going to clean up the caps check the line bore Im less than impressed
 
That is something i always check . Over time you may have core shift , will it run yea but you will have more ware on bearings and slight drag on the engine . BUT what i do not like is the NEW way on doing the line bore now with the line HONE as it takes meat out of the block and cap . We use to set up to just lightly DUST the blocks and take a little more out of the caps with the line BORE this helped with keeping the timing chain tight as possible and on gear drive valve trains it did not set the crank gear to much deeper into the matting gears . Then once we had center line then we would work on getting the bores straight with the center line . These shops have pretty much gone the line hone as any dummy can set them up , just grind the caps how ever put them on stuff the bar in and start boring and just get it close it will be fine . Where as with the bar you had to do the set up and get that dead on the money BEFORE you stuffed the caps on and sometimes ya had to dust the cap mating surface so the block had to be dead on from one end to the other . It took me a lot longer to do the set up then what it took my buddy but he had way more experience then i had .
 
Also a good and i say again a GOOD DIAL BORE GAUGE that will go from like and 1 1/2 to 10 inches and one for doing radiates . I find lots of uses for mine Really helped getting my wood planer to make true cuts and not wedges .
 
You're talking about doing it the *right* way (If the main bore needs attention). I agree, the setup is everything.
Hard these days to find a machinist that's not cross threaded between the ears.
 
The caps cleaned up pretty decent after all . Still going to have to do some measurements. Whoever took this block apart needs his a$$ kicked every one of the caps are nicked and marked up with apprentice marks hopefully they pass muster or I might be buying new caps .
cvphoto82864.jpg


cvphoto82865.jpg


cvphoto82866.jpg
 
Local hold em n screw em only had 60 grit pads . Not really sold on pads because with paper I can hold the shape of the bearing surface better
 
There are some pretty deep nicks in the edges of the caps I had to smooth them up some hopefully theyll work
 
i did not know a person could buy new caps. if so then a line bore is required. far as i know when the caps get smashed or damaged the block is junk, but that was on gasoline engines and dont know why a diesel would be different unless due to cost.
 
60 is too course , they dont not need to shine like that as that is removing material. i dont like that. scotch brite is the ticket with a light scuffing. you need to also fit the brg in and check the crush and make sure it will hold. if it just falls in you will be doing a line bore. but best to get them torqued in the block and do your measuring of the bores.
 


Here's a chart we used on all G333 6 cylinder Cat engines, Waukesha, climax, etc,etc, when cleaning any bearing Caps......

60 Grit..........:(

Bob..
cvphoto82902.jpg
 
60 Grit is for removing the skin, flesh from newly born calf's..then add dehorning paste.........

Also good for removing the splinters and knots off the seat of the old-out house.........

Bob...
 
My JD Industrial came to me with a spun main bearing. It was so out of round, I had to buy a new cap. then it was off the a local machine shop to have all the mains line bored. Might look into that being done. It's only money. Stan
 
I have another block here but the caps have a different number cast into them not sure if they will work or not. Looks like Ill be spending a little relaxing time with the micrometers and bore gauges . These caps look like the bearing half way spun on a couple almost . The crank is standard so I dont know if could just put new caps on or not . I see a new truck in my near future the way this ordeal is turning out. Thats the reason I just had to back out of our tractor deal probably be sick about that until I croak
 
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