7000 Row Planter?

hunter74

New User
I do a little hobby farming and food plot planting every year and am looking to purchase one of the cut down John Deere 7000 planters for a 2 row setup and I have some questions on what exactly I would need to meet my goals.

Ultimately I would like to no till plant so what would I need to do to set the 7000 up for this? Ive read that the smooth disc openers actually work better then the wavy disc designed for no till?

The seed I would generally plant would be corn, beans, sunflower and grain sorghum. What would I need as far as fingers or seed cups and plates to plant these different seeds? I would also maybe try to experiment with other mid size seed such as snow peas or green beans, could these work through the bean setup?

If theres other planter setups that would work better for these Im open to that too.

Any help and advice is appreciated
Thanks guys
 
For corn you would use a finger pickup. For soybeans you can use a feed cup or if you want more accurate planting a radial soybean or a brush meter. Sorghum takes another different feed cup and there are both hi rate and low rate cups. I bought sorghum cups for my 7200 a few years ago and spent about $50 each. Bean cups can be bought for about the same. Tom
 
Between dad and me, we've no tilled with 7000 and newer planters for 36 years. I'll send you some tips tonight. In the meantime, what residue are you trying to plant into?
 
First off get a set of 13 wave trash whippers out front. Next two HD down springs on each row unit.. i use a 4 row and don't know why you want to cut one down. 4 is plenty small.
Disk openers. Dont use anything except the standard opening discs. If you can't see the bevel at the out side, replace them.
Get four of the Yetter finger closing wheels run one each with the original rubber wheel. Look for the arrow, they are directional. Check your down pressure settings on the closing wheel arm.
JD had bean and sorgham cups and plates for the planter, Ask the seller for them. You could probably borrow them. I haven't used mine except a few times in 20 years.
 
Thanks for the help so far guys

The accuracy of planting isnt too critical to me as long as Im not way over seeding.

The residue I plant into would be mainly corn, sunflower and sorghum. Everything else that I plant shrivels up or rots pretty good. Basically I do a constant rotation of the things I listed plus deer plot stuff such as clover, turnips, radishes and winter rye. I have 5 small fields or plots that I plant totaling 6 acres or so.

The main reasons I want to go with the 2 row setup is cost, I can find the 2 row setups for $1500-2000. Second big reason is wanting to use it on my 3 point and physical size to get into tighter areas. My tractor is a full size 3010 but I dont want anything any wider then the tractor.
 
(quoted from post at 06:44:25 03/18/21) First off get a set of 13 wave trash whippers out front. Next two HD down springs on each row unit.. i use a 4 row and don't know why you want to cut one down. 4 is plenty small.
Disk openers. Dont use anything except the standard opening discs. If you can't see the bevel at the out side, replace them.
Get four of the Yetter finger closing wheels run one each with the original rubber wheel. Look for the arrow, they are directional. Check your down pressure settings on the closing wheel arm.
JD had bean and sorgham cups and plates for the planter, Ask the seller for them. You could probably borrow them. I haven't used mine except a few times in 20 years.

GordoSD, Im not sure I follow you on the wave trash wipers. You mean a setup different then like the Yetter or Martin trash wipers?
 
(quoted from post at 09:12:21 03/18/21) Give up your no till fantasies unless you want to do
A lot of spraying

Less spraying/weeds is why I want to no till. Its been my experience that if you do a burn down with herbicide then plant right over the dead vegetation you dont get many weeds to come up through the dead layer, at least not till the crop has a good head start in which it will stunt the weeds instead of vice versa.
 
You are right. No till means less weeds. Where do you live? What type of soil? If you have light or sandy soil you do not need anything special for closing wheels in normal trash conditions. If the soil is wet and black then closing wheels with teeth do a little better job of caving in the seed trench to cover the seed and there are many different designs to choose from.
 
Here's my thoughts:

A 7000 in a drawn configuration will no till into sod, bean stubble, etc with little or no modification. Knowing what we know now, I'd say you'd be fine with no no-till coulter ahead of the planting unit, but you might want a row cleaner, especially if planting corn after corn. A spiked closing wheel on one or both sides can help as well, but we ran ours for 20 plus years without. Some heavier duty down pressure springs would be good to have, too.

My only concern: I'm not sure with the 3 point plot planters commonly seen if there is enough weight on the tool bar. I plant with fertilizer on the planter, so there is plenty of weight for the planter... if the planter is too light, and the ground hard, strong springs won't help the units into the ground, they will lift the main toolbar of the planter. If the ground is hard, you may need to add a little ballast to the tool bar. Planting at a slower ground speed will also help the planter get in the ground and stay there at a consistent depth. I'd aim to stay below 4 mph.
 
And for an easier planter to do all the changing on a White has seed disks just change the disk and go plant for your seed size. Deere you have to change from the fingers over to a belt deal on those 7000 models so it's 2 bolts after you get the box off the planter. those fingers get wear and don't plant accurate. The White is just a disk change. The schlegel wheels worked good for the neighbor in hard dirt when I was over there a few years ago. Crushed the dirt in on the seed and left a nice loose top for the seed to come through. I would reconsider the 3pt planter for nothrilling. Will need weight on it for dry ground if in dry hard clay dirt. Sand no problem.
 
Thank you all for the thoughts and help.

I think I got a grasp on everything I need to do. I was thinking right off the bat I would need to add weight to the planter by either putting sand in the fertilizer boxes if it has them or tractor weights where the fert boxes where.

I am in central WI with fairly sandy soil so being able to brake ground isnt a big concern for me and everything I plant I have worked for the last 6-8 years so its nothing like Im trying to brake sod.
 

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