135 massey ferguson engine over revving

I shouldn't have even messed with it from the get go. When I rebuilt this tractor few years ago I always thought the governor wasn't working correctly but as I see now it was. For some reason now after I have installed a new governor I cant get this thing correct. I've watched videos read literature and Its still over revving. I really feel it could be in the linkage but I haven't figured out where.
One thing I don't understand and cant find any info on is the front cover with the spring on it which I have adjusted per video and literature. I have actually taken the front cover off 3 times just to make sure nothing is wrong. Can someone give me any insight on what could be going on.
Thank you

Make sure all linkage is free, NO sticking. Back out the bumper spring screw on the cover, if governor is set right it's seldom needed. If governor action is lazy, LENGTHEN the carb governor rod. If governor SURGES, SHORTEN the rod. Make take several attempts, and the service book is not always right on the best rod length setting. This method works on any engine where the governor rod PULLS the carb throttle open, if engine governor PUSHES the throttle open the rod length changes are reversed..

Back the anti surge screw out until out until it isn't touching. It's pretty much useless.

The most common problem is the length of the rod from the gov arm to the carb. The gov has a limited travel, get the rod too short and it runs out of travel before the carb gets pushed closed.

Here's what to do:

Set the dash lever about 2/3 full speed. Pull the pin out of the clevis, push the rod back so the carb is against the idle stop. Note the position of the rod end.

Be careful, or best have someone to start the engine and be ready to shut it down just in case things get out of hand. You will also be dangerously close to the generator belt, so proceed with caution.

Hold the rod back at idle, get the engine running. Slowly and carefully increase the RPM while carefully watching the position of the gov arm hole where the clevis pin attaches. Once you get to a certain RPM the gov arm will start to move back. Continue to raise the RPM until the arm stops moving back.

That will be the end of it's travel. Note that position, shut it down and adjust the length of the rod clevis so when the arm is at the end of it's powered travel, the carb will be held against the idle stop.

You may have to adjust it a few times to get it right, the length is critical.

It is best to have the rod slightly long than too short.

Once you have the length set and the pin back in, set the dash lever to idle. The plunger inside the governor spring should be down against the end of the gov arm, holding the arm down and the carb against the idle stop.

If all looks well try a governed start up. Really need a tach because the full speed RPM will need to be set.

To set the RPM carefully bring the speed up making sure the gov is at least trying to control the speed. You'll want to shoot for about 2200 RPM. To adjust the speed, loosen the U bolt up above the gov arm, by the thermostat housing. With the dash lever at full fast, rotate the U bolt until the Rpm is correct, then tighten the U bolt.

Repeat the return to idle test several times, tinker with the adjustments as needed, but that should get something working.

I am at the tractor now trying what you said . The governor arm does not move when tractor is cranked and I am manually using throttle rod. I have the screw all the way back out. I am working the RPM up and down and the governor arm does not move back or forth at all. I can manually move governor rod back and forth so its not sticking or anything. Is there something in that arm that touches the governor that I am missing. When apart everything looked correct. I actually have a picture of it on my phone I could text you a picture of it if i had your number If that could help. 704-641-0892 is my cell if needed
Thanks again