Cleaning a carburetor

super99

Well-known Member
I posted in the wrong place, so I’ll try again. I have a carburetor off of a Oliver 88 that has set several years. I took it apart and the choke shaft is stuck, but I can blow through all of the passageways. It’s rusty inside. What to soak it in to clean it up? I have a crockpot that I can heat it up in. I have heard vinegar, purple power or toilet bowl cleaner works, or I have a gallon of carburetor cleaner from Napa that I could soak it for a few days. Which way to go?
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Out of the options you have, my first choice would be to read the directions on the carb cleaner and use that. Second choice would be to heat the vinegar up in the crockpot and use that. Ive never tried toilet bowl cleaner or purple power.
After many years of trying to clean and rebuild carburetors, I finally bought a heated sonic cleaner off eBay and use it with white vinegar. My experience with it has been quite good.
Hopefully this helps.
 
I put them in my sandblast cabinet and shoot them lightly in and out. Wash all passages with carb spray, blow out, new kit, spray with clear laquer when done.
 
IMHO you need to pull the main nozzle out and clean the small holes around it . Blowing air and soaking won't clean them.. item 24 in the diagram ( www.carburetion.com/CarbNumber.asp?Number=TSX-60 (AL28487) . This may not be the same number of your carb, but shows the main nozzle i'm referring to .
 
I would second removing the main jet, I did a carb recently and the passages behind the jet were plugged solid. BTW I ruined the jet getting it out, but new ones are available.

Rich
 
Back in the early days you could get real good carb cleaner. The stuff now days is just a waste of money. Stan
 
(quoted from post at 19:24:22 01/26/21) I would second removing the main jet, I did a carb recently and the passages behind the jet were plugged solid. BTW I ruined the jet getting it out, but new ones are available.

Rich

My uncle did the carb job recently and yes, the jet delicate to get out.
 
If you have access to an ultra sonic cleaner a couple of hours in that will make a world of difference
 
Your carb looks really good except for the surface rust. Should be easy to clean with pert near anything. Hit the surface rust with a piece of scotchbrite.
 
If the main jet doesn't come out heat the bowl around it with a propane torch, just till it smokes. Should come out easily then. I have a gallon of water seal cleaner from years ago I only use on carbs. Awful stuff but it works. Probably can't get it now. I glass bead if they're rusted.
 
If it is cast iron, I cook them in a lye solution. I had one that was just a ball of rust. I cooked it 3 times before the water stayed clear. When on the engine, I could idle it down to where the impulse on the mag was snapping.
 
Phosphoric Acid would work, Also a product from the Hardware store I think is called C calcium R ust L ime CLR Its supposed to remove any of these. About 8 bucks a bottle. I also lightly blast them in a cabinet.
 
Phosphoric Acid would work, Also a product from the Hardware store I think is called C calcium R ust L ime CLR Its supposed to remove any of these. About 8 bucks a bottle. I also lightly blast them in a cabinet.
 
I have done a few carbs over the years and some of these answers make me a little nervous. You can get a new choke shaft in most cases. So I would soak it in carb cleaner overnight and see can I work that shaft out. A little heat to the exposed part of the shaft might help but not a lot of heat. The mating surfaces can be cleaned by laying abrasive cloth on a flat surface and rubbing each half on it. I would not put a carb in a blasting cabinet. I use a wire wheel on the outside being real careful not to get anything inside. I would not use an acid stronger than vinegar. Use extreme care when poking around in those tiny passages.
 
One thing I forgot to mention. Marvel Schebler carbs sometimes can fill with gas and create a hard start condition. In fact, Ive pryed back the rubber hose going to the air inlet and gas has POURED out. Some folks just shut the gas valve off at the tank, but I have had success curing this problem by 1. setting the float between 1/4 inch and 3/8 instead of right at 1/4, 2. filing the top and bottom gasket surfaces flat, and 3. using the metal needle instead of the rubber tipped needle that is supplied with new rebuild kits. Hope this helps.
 
Boil it in your crockpot with vinegar. Just a slow, steady heat, a hard boil
is not necessary but get it good and hot. It won't clean it all the first time,
but it WILL make getting all the brass pieces out a whole lot easier.
Then clean it again in the crockpot with Murphy's oil soap or Dawn.
Add some vinegar if you still have rust left inside.

That's how I get them apart and initially cleaned. Then I soak them
in the carb cleaner. (saves my carb cleaner from a lot of the gunk)
Then I sandblast them, true all the surfaces, install shaft bushings
if needed, prime, paint, test and adjust.

This one is off a Ford.

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