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The self adjusting truck ?

S

SVcummins

Well-known Member
No more backfire upon letting off the throttle : oil consumption is almost 0 since I switched to mystic 15 50 Diesel engine oil. The Shaffer was going through that thing like sh$t through a goose .
cvphoto72479.jpg
 
What were you using before you switched over to Mystic? Did you clean or replace your PCV valve while you under the hood? CM
 
Nice picture. I'm trying with help from my granddaughter to post so pictures but haven't been able to. I have a 1960 C60 chevy truck that I have hauled a 37A to tractor pulls. Good thing on the oil use age iv heard that before that if you use or brake in a motor that you should use that kind all its life.
 
Better get an oil pan heater on that truck. With the temperatures your area sees, that 15 50 can twist off the oil pump drive during a cold start. I have broken the oil pump drive on a 350 Chevy running straight 30 during the winter.
 
When I was a senior in college, I bought a '72 Chevy 3/4 ton by the side of the road, it was a sweet old truck. It burned some oil though... and I changed it twice in about 1000 miles, and it cured most all the oil consumption. I'm guessing I put something Mobil in it... I think newer oil with different detergent maybe 'unstuck' some rings???

Had the thing 10 years after that, and it never burned much the whole time. I did drive the thing from Ithaca NY to Bloomington, IL in one day.... that 800 plus mile drive didn't hurt either.
 
I had a worn old truck that I used to run 20w50 in the summer. Once I bought a different brand of oil and the rockers were clattering and it didn't sound good for the old engine. Switched back to Valvoline or Castrol and all was good again. This was over 40 years ago and I never used that oil again.
 
I bought a 71 Cheyenne with a 350, very clean truck but consumed some oil and smoked.

I changed the oil, put in Castrol 10w-30, tuned it up. the oil consumption slowly diminished and I drove it a long time.

One night coming home it started a terrible knocking, a knock you could feel, all the symptoms of a spun rod bearing but it still had the same oil pressure.

I limped it home, with the intention of taking it to a friends garage to pull the engine. Started it the next morning, the knock was gone!

Drove it another couple years, it never came back, never found any evidence when I did finally have to go through it.

My assumption was it passed a chunk of carbon off an intake valve.

That truck ended up being stolen. Never saw it again. I'm pretty sure a coworker arranged to have it stolen. He knew I had just gone through the engine and transmission. It was going to be the truck I planned to drive forever, instead it got traded for his 10 minute crack fix.

I did see the back bumper on another truck once, I followed him , he went into a bad part of town, I decided it wasn't worth dying for, and gave it up.
 
I like the Mystic they used to sell it at the local TSC. Not available anymore. Now I use Rotella 15-40. I have seen vehicles used is light duty use oil when put into heavier service. Usually for only a short period. I think the oil has volatile hydrocarbons and other liquids which get burned off.
 
I have a '68 C50/12ft grain box. Owned it since 79. It was the place I met my wife. :). It moved us 350 miles across the mountains from the eastern slope of northern colorado.Put a new 350 in it about 5 years ago.Love that little truck. It will never leave..........
 
17 years ago I started a new job,they told me a new Freightliner was on order. The Isuzu they had me driving had the transmission lock up two weeks later(the service garage could find no record of it ever being serviced). So they drug out the Chevy,it was an old ice cream truck converted to gas(they run LP)366 gas and it burned a quart a day. Buy July when the new truck came in I had it down to 0 oil loss. Rotella 10w30.
 
My FIRST car, 1970 Chevy Nova 307 V8, used a little oil, odometer showed 30,000 miles in 3 years, was probably more like 100,000 miles. As I put more miles on it, it used more & more oil, finally about 200 miles per quart. I finally talked to a mechanic that thought he could help, he thought it was the o-ring valve stem seals. I dropped it off one day, his shop was two blocks from my work. We pulled a valve cover, he had an air fitting that screwed into plug hole, held valves closed, replaced o-rings on one whole bank, then was coffee time. I went to work. That afternoon, about 4PM I stopped at the shop to pay him, went and punched out at my work, checked the oil in my car, almost to full line. Drove it almost 500 miles before the oil started dropping, then used a quart every 400 miles, then 300 miles, finally about every 125 miles. The valve guides were so loose it chewed up the new o-rings. It needed a better pair of heads, or a different engine. Yeah, an LT-1 350 would have been nice! Coupldn't find heads or an engine, so traded cars for a new '77 Firebird. That 307 didn't leak, didn't smoke on start-up, only smoked a little when backing off the gas at high RPM when vacuum went way high. The engine must have been over-heated pretty good before I bought it, those o-rings were brittle and hard.
 
(quoted from post at 12:54:35 01/24/21) My FIRST car, 1970 Chevy Nova 307 V8, used a little oil, odometer showed 30,000 miles in 3 years, was probably more like 100,000 miles. As I put more miles on it, it used more & more oil, finally about 200 miles per quart. I finally talked to a mechanic that thought he could help, he thought it was the o-ring valve stem seals. I dropped it off one day, his shop was two blocks from my work. We pulled a valve cover, he had an air fitting that screwed into plug hole, held valves closed, replaced o-rings on one whole bank, then was coffee time. I went to work. That afternoon, about 4PM I stopped at the shop to pay him, went and punched out at my work, checked the oil in my car, almost to full line. Drove it almost 500 miles before the oil started dropping, then used a quart every 400 miles, then 300 miles, finally about every 125 miles. The valve guides were so loose it chewed up the new o-rings. It needed a better pair of heads, or a different engine. Yeah, an LT-1 350 would have been nice! Coupldn't find heads or an engine, so traded cars for a new '77 Firebird. That 307 didn't leak, didn't smoke on start-up, only smoked a little when backing off the gas at high RPM when vacuum went way high. The engine must have been over-heated pretty good before I bought it, those o-rings were brittle and hard.
Click to expand...

Since the O-ring style seals are between the spring retainer and the valve stem (which don't move in relation to each other) valve guide wear has no effect on them.

NO way it "chewed through the O-rings"!

Now, if you are meaning "positive" valve stem seals that's another matter.

rDTB3OX.jpg
 
Yep, but it is/was real common to stick a set of umbrella seals on them. Works much better on loose guides than the original orings. And requires no machine work like the positive seals. Maybe that's what the mechanic did.
 
I was really hoping that 20 50 would maybe clear up the rings if they might be stuck I bet I dumped 6 quarts through it in the last few weeks . The 15 50 seemed to help more than anything. I really think I want to try those umbrella stem seals
 
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