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John Deere 420c update

S

SVcummins

Well-known Member
Finally going to get back started on the engine overhaul and final drive repair .
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The one piston I can find measures with 4.246 with spec being 4.246 to 4.247 . Next up to measure the cylinder bore and see if it’s wore out
 
I’ve got the cummins the John Deere a welder and a ford 2715e . Going to try to get them done this year with the cummins and welder at the top of the list
 
Keep us informed on the 420C. I have one that I need some encouragement to get back into. Both final drives need overhauled. It's been occupying space in my shop for several years. Mine is a 1957 5 roller with a 62 blade. I hope you can inspire me to move it to the top of the list.
 
Mine is a all green 56 4 roller it had a homemade dozer but it wore out . I am going to see if I can just do new rings or if it needs bored
 
I've rebuilt several engines with only New rings if the bore is less than about9 thousands oversize. I take the block in and have it honed. The machinist will hone the bore till it cleans up the bore to the same size from top to bottom. It is a waste of time to hone it yourself. Forget about those ball hones. They are a joke. The pistons might slap a little when you start it but it stops after the engine warms up and it doesn't seem to hurt a thing. Mine have been good for around a hundred thousand miles. Do you have a ridge reamer? You will need one to get the pistons out without breaking them. You also need some plastiguage to check if the crank needs to be turned. On small one cylinder engines, I've even ground the crank by hand, but that's a skill I won't get into now.
 
350 chevy and an onan I’m hoping I can just do rings on the welder . The dump truck is probably not going to be rebuilt for awhile it still runs good just uses oil going to see what the valve stem Seals look like maybe they have just rotted away
 
SV when you go looking for parts think jdcrawlers DOT com, Lavoy Wilcox runs the place and he repairs crawlers plus sells parts, new and used. He is at the other end of North Dakota from you.
 
Gee, that looks familiar...

Wound up parting it out as transmission and front idler wheels were mostly junk, clutch, track frames and blade cylinders were COMPLETELY junk.

Did manage to get enough for parts to cover my original investment. Nothing left but the memories and sore knees.
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I do not understand your statement, I agree that the ball hones are only good to break the glaze which is all some engines need, but for not honing ones self. I can set up and hone and engine block just as good as any machine shop. No reason not to do it his self if he does it right. Early 70s we ran built many ih engines and got good service out of them.
 
(quoted from post at 06:25:17 01/17/21) SV when you go looking for parts think jdcrawlers DOT com, Lavoy Wilcox runs the place and he repairs crawlers plus sells parts, new and used. He is at the other end of North Dakota from you.
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Agree, go to lavoys www.jdcrawlers.com site and get on the forum there. Great buncha guys.
 
😂 . My cousin had a cat get into catnip he had growing in the garden and that thing was higher than a kite on cloud 9
 
Hi jm. When a machine shop hones an engine they actually bore it out to the depth of the wear. If you Mic. The cylinder after they hone it; it will be within a half a thousandth, from top to bottom of the bore. The reason I don't like ball hones; They just follow the wear of the cylinder and don't true it up at all. The three stone hones will true up a cylinder if you do it right. It would take at least 40 hours to bore a block out to the wear in the top of the cylinder with a hone in A drill. A machine shop can do it in a hour. You should go to a shop and watch it done if you get a chance. They can also put a super smooth finish on the cylinder walls for racers too, but they charge extra for that.
 
If you do get one the undercarriage doesn’t have to be perfect you’re not putting 5000 hours a year on the tractor like you would if you was at rock quarry or building a dam or something
 
I'm not a dozer expert, although I have put a lot of hours on my little 420C. I was internally debating whether to fix my dozer or scrap it - the track chain is pretty worn. I have a friend who is a retired dozer operator/mechanic. He looked at it and pronounced it fit for repair. He said that those little Deere dozers with the rock guards will NOT jump a track off unless they are sloppy loose. His exact words were, "That little tractor will outlive you if you fix it!"

I notice that your 420 is missing the rock guards - hopefully they are stuck back somewhere waiting to be put back on.
 
I’d like to know more about grinding the crank? I have micrometers and bore gauges to check the cylinder bores and crank and cam . On the little onan i am just going to do rings unless the piston is broke or the cylinder bores look really bad
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