I cant get it to start I have spark and a new carburetor number 1 cylinder sparks at 12o clock on the fly wheel and number 2 cylinder sparks at 6o clock on the fly wheel is the tractor out of time thanks
 
Fill in the blanks as to what you have done to it so we know where to lead you.

Do you have good flow of fuel to the carb and out the carb drain plug?? Has it been running well and then stopped running for you ??
 
I had it running awhile ago I do have good gas flow (new carburetor) I put new plugs in (champion) I tried pulling it today to start it and it sounded like it wanted to start but never did it did back fire a couple times I have new mag cover new plugs and wires when I check for spark I notice it sparks on the flywheel side timing mark at 12oclock
If Im looking at the correct mark on the fly wheel its a small mark a slot not a dot on the fly wheel thanks
 
Very uncommon for tiring to just out of the clear blue get off. So timing isn't likely to be you problem unless you mixed up the 2 plug wires. Just for the heck of it I'd switch the 2 wires at the mag an see what happens. You could also have points that need to be cleaned
 
I tried cleaning the points and flipped the plug wires and no start why would it back fire could that be because of out of time how can I check if its in time I tried doing it with my finger over the number one cylinder flywheel side and the mark on the flywheel is at 12o clock at tdc if Im doing it correctly
If its not timed right it will not start?
 
A back fire can be caused by a number of things. Carb set to lean will cause that as will a sticking valve. As I said timing doesn't just get out unless you have messed with it so no likely to be your problem. Since it has a mag is the impulse working as it should be
 
If you can turn it over by hand listen for a loud click when it should fire. No click the impulse if not working. Been years since I messed with an A but I do own a much older B
 
Ok I thought thats what you meant I dont hear a click from the mag could I possibly have a distributor I had it off and I could spin the ears freely but I do have spark
 
Being a 1952 it could well be a distributor instead of a mag. Point gap of very important by the way so if you have that wrong that can/will cause odd problem or if you have replaced the condenser put the old one back in and try it
 
Always happy to help if and when I can. A JD A was one of the first tractors I drove a lot when I was younger. When was 18 I worked in the rice straw fields of Mississippi when I got out of high school up till I went in the navy
 
By the way the very first tractor I ever sat on is the JD B I own but it was my grand fathers tractor and he got it used in 1940. It is a 1935 B on steel wheels
 
Get your left cylinder at top dead center and then check the slot for the
distributor, should be horizontal. Then your timing is close. Ron MN
 
Wet plugs mean there fuel fouled and will not fire so they need to be cleaned or they will never fire and it will never run. Use a lighter to heat them up and burn off the fuel. You may even try turning on the gas and count to say 15. Turn the gas off and then try to start it. If it started turn the gas on real fast and it may keep running unless you have a float problem in the carb. Also you say the carb is new is it by chance China junk if so there is the problem
 
Im not sure where he got the carb it was on when I got the tractor I think he got everything from Steiner tractor Im going to find tdc tomorrow and see where the lugs are on the distributor hopefully I can get it started tomorrow
 
Im not sure where he got the carb it was on when I got the tractor I think he got everything from Steiner tractor Im going to find tdc tomorrow and see where the lugs are on the distributor hopefully I can get it started tomorrow
 
Is the carb cast iron of some other sort of metal?? If it is cast iron then it is likely to be U.S. made if not China junk. You also may have a float or float needle problem and it is flooding out and if so it will not start due to gas fouling the plugs
 
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To set timing, rotate flywheel to get left hand cylinder ( #1 ) on compression stroke then line up L H Impulse mark with line on cover aft of flywheel. There should be a punch mark by the letter P. on your flywheel. Mine is red paint dot. Or line up punch mark near big nut at 6:00 with mark on flywheel cover. Mine is also red mark.

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The distributor drive slots should be horizontal. If they are install distributor with rotor pointing up at 12:00. Put bolts in but do not tighten. Turn distributor clockwise as far as it will go then turn counterclockwise until points open. Tighten bolts. This is how I timed my A, by the I-T manual.

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Ok thanks I was able to get it started this afternoon with a pull it will idle low great but give it full throttle and it takes a bit to reach full throttle tried adjusting the idle screw and load screw not sure what Im doing never messed with one before when it reaches full throttle it runs good its just in between low to high idle any thoughts
 
Thee carb to not have a accelerator pump like car carbs so it can take a bit to spin them up unless you do so slowly or choke them a little bit to make it run richer
 
Ok Im not sure how to adjust the carb i tried messing with it as it was running I couldnt get the hesitation out from low idle to high idle thanks to everyone who has helped me through this Im learning a lot throughout this process
 
My manual for rebuilding a DLTX 71 carb initial settings are 1 1/2 turns out from closed for the idle needle and 1 turn for load needle. You may have to fine tune from those settings.
 

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