Little help

Ford 951. Not happy. Gas dripping off the T adjustment screw. Can't get it to rev up, it dies immediately. I took needle out. No o rings , just black goo. I googled " exploded view" of the carb to see what I need to put in there and all I can find is a fuzzy picture. Anyone have a good picture?

Tractor was running great. Baled hay with it and it ran the finish mower about 6 weeks ago. No issues. Tried to crank it up and drive it up and down the road.....no luck. Won't run above an idle and likes the choke pulled half way.

I would check the air in to carb. You might fine a mice nest in there there bad this year and could be blocked. If so that's why it will not Rev up or any power.

Check for good gas flow out of carb bowl drain and work backwards from there to tank if an issue is found. Be sure screen is in sediment bowl. Then if that doesn’t help since you have a fleet of Fords, try swapping a carburetor from one that runs good - or take apart and clean the carb . Then post back if that doesn’t get it.

Took carb apart and cleaned. Good gas flow. Still not happy with air breather hose off. Sucking air around main needle? It's dripping gas from there

Did you read the replies to the other post?

Not sure how good the picture is but if you go to Roberts carb site you can view the packing cone in the diagrams.

It can't suck air around the adjustment screw, just liquid fuel standing in the bowl above it that is leaking. There is either an oring or a packing around the screw. If tightening the gland nut doesn't stop the leak, take the screw and nut out, see what is there. If an oring, replace it. If a packing roll up a piece of teflon tape and wrap it around the screw, add to the packing, don't remove it. The oring/packing not only seals the fuel, it restricts the movement of the screw so it will stay where you leave it. Once you get the leak stopped, set the screw at about 2 turns off the seat. That should make it run.If not, before trying to adjust it further, check the points gap. Closed points, weak spark will give the same symptoms.

Once the spark quality is good, (jump 1/4" to ground from the plug end to ground of each plug wire), then adjust the main jet.

To adjust it, with engine at warm idle, suddenly open the throttle, listen to the response, if it hesitates open the main some. Fine tune it so it will take sudden throttle without hesitation. A single puff of black smoke is good.

If it still will not adjust, continues to not take throttle, something is still clogged in the carb, the float is too low, or lack of fuel to the carb.

The Walker Brand carb kits O'Reilly's sell have a good blow up of the carb and all the parts. I don't have one of them for that carb in the house if I did I would look at it and say more. The only one I have in the house right now is for a Zenith carb and it shows a gasket on that part or at least that what they call it