Where to hook tie downs on a NF WD on a trailer?

Will Herring · Dec 14, 2020

So yeah, I am needing to haul my narrow front Allis Chalmers WD later this week to have some work done that is beyond my capacity in my dirt floor shed, and I was wondering where the best anchor points are? I don't have any hooks welded on anything to assist.

Trying to remember where it got tied down 20 years ago when it was hauled off for some work, I remember one being hooked maybe on the drawbar support beam but not where it was chained in the front.

It was a whopping high of like 40 degrees or so yesterday and I did my third day of cleaning on the old gal to get it ready for shipment (didn't want to dirty up their shop).

Mineral spirits, dawn dish soap, a brush, a rag, scrapers, etc... Just trying to get 70 years of dirt, oil, and grease off. She actually looks better than I thought under all that.

DeltaSteve · Dec 14, 2020

I often throw one chain over the front tires around the pedestal and tie off to the front of trailer. Use two chains on rear, hook to drawbar support,angle to back of trailer. Use 3(or 4)
boomers.Pretend you are stretching the tractor.Haven't lost one yet.

TractorTucker · Dec 14, 2020

One around the pedestal for the front
tires to front of trailer, 2 from drawbar
or rear tires to back of trailer.

showcrop · Dec 14, 2020

I use a strap around the pedestal of my small Fords.

paul · Dec 14, 2020

I think dot wants you to use 4 chains independently one each corner, so even if any one chain goes away the other 3 will keep it secure.

I thought most folk bolt a chain or a ring to the frame hole on each side On the engine rail, and use those to chain it down.

Looping a chain around the front pedestal would work for me as others mention, but might not suit dot?

Paul

Will Herring · Dec 14, 2020

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback.

showcrop · Dec 14, 2020

(quoted from post at 10:09:05 12/14/20) I think dot wants you to use 4 chains independently one each corner, so even if any one chain goes away the other 3 will keep it secure.

I thought most folk bolt a chain or a ring to the frame hole on each side On the engine rail, and use those to chain it down.

Looping a chain around the front pedestal would work for me as others mention, but might not suit dot?

Paul

Paul, I am pretty sure that the WD is well under 10,000 lbs.

4wdtom · Dec 14, 2020

I often haul my WD. I made two 1/2" plates that bolt to the frame in the existing holes in the area under the radiator. To these I welded large hooks. These are useful
for towing the tractor or pulling something backwards with it too. For the rear I use the drawbar support, one chain on each side of the drawbar. This way I have the 4
chains. I fasten the rear ones, tighten them by driving forward, shut the tractor off, put the front chains on and tighten them with load binders.

jimtrs · Dec 14, 2020

(quoted from post at 11:53:44 12/14/20) ..... I did my third day of cleaning on the old gal to get it ready for shipment (didn't want to dirty up their shop)

Wow, You are welcome in my shop anytime! Not that it never happens, but that is a rare occurrence!!

Tying down around the pedestal works, but the chains (or straps) will slide down the pedestal, and the front wheels will be in the way for a direct shot to the corners of your trailer. Maybe hook to the trailer straight ahead of the tractor.

What I did years ago when I was hauling three different WD's Was to bolt up eye bolts to the frame rails.

For the rears, around the axles or through the wheels.

Will Herring · Dec 14, 2020

Yeah, this WD has ballasted rears, so I figure the weight on it is probably.... 5000 pounds? I've got enough stuff to do 4 or 6 anchor points if needed. Was figuring I would do 4 at least (2 back, 2 front).

[b:9a5fb68f7d]Sounds like a lot of you guys drive them on the trailer and tie them down. Any pros/cons to backing on vs. driving on?[/b:9a5fb68f7d]

Wow, You are welcome in my shop anytime! Not that it never happens, but that is a rare occurrence!!

Hehe, thanks. I thought it would be an easy clean up job, but now I'm 3 separate attempts into it and each time I feel like I have a bucket full of greasy oily dirt gunk I have taken off and I am like "tractor still looks dirty but this crap had to come from somewhere!".

bc · Dec 14, 2020

Remember it is one thing to chain it down so it doesn't move if you have to slam on your brakes.

You also have to pay attention to the center of gravity. A top heavy object will try to flip over if you take a corner too fast. On the front if there is no good way to hook a chain in the frame rail, then I would hook a chain around the top of the center post then go over the bolster in front of the radiator and then to the opposite corner. Hook another chain around the post and go the other way. This way you are getting more leverage higher up on the tractor. Think of how easy it is to trip someone at the ankles compared to grabbing them around the waist. The tractor may not be too top heavy but that front end is where I'd worry the most.

I would chain around a rear axle by the wheel and go to the opposite corner. Same for the other side so the chains criss cross and don't have to go around the tires.

With tires that flex, it is hard to boom them down tight but if you need to you can use a second boomer to get another bite and alternate.

showcrop · Dec 14, 2020

(quoted from post at 13:17:53 12/14/20)
Remember it is one thing to chain it down so it doesn't move if you have to slam on your brakes.

You also have to pay attention to the center of gravity. A top heavy object will try to flip over if you take a corner too fast. On the front if there is no good way to hook a chain in the frame rail, then I would hook a chain around the top of the center post then go over the bolster in front of the radiator and then to the opposite corner. Hook another chain around the post and go the other way. This way you are getting more leverage higher up on the tractor. Think of how easy it is to trip someone at the ankles compared to grabbing them around the waist. The tractor may not be too top heavy but that front end is where I'd worry the most.

I would chain around a rear axle by the wheel and go to the opposite corner. Same for the other side so the chains criss cross and don't have to go around the tires.

With tires that flex, it is hard to boom them down tight but if you need to you can use a second boomer to get another bite and alternate.

bc, that is a very imaginative load securement job suggestion!

Dennis K (WA) · Dec 14, 2020

Different brand but similar.

Dennis

Will Herring · Dec 14, 2020

(quoted from post at 19:38:22 12/14/20) Different brand but similar.

Dennis

This is great Dennis, thanks!!

Paul from MI · Dec 14, 2020

I have added a loop of 3/8 x 2 steel from one rail to the other using cultivator mounting holes on my JD B & H and Allis B and Farmall H to tie down
the front end. Then use the drawbar to tie down the rear. One chain and binder each corner. Rear of a tractor is heavier so drive it on front-wards,
easier to balance the trailer. Works for me.

Hoenes · Dec 14, 2020

The WD - 45 is 4400#, according to the manual.

ramblineagle · Dec 14, 2020

I place the chain hook on my WC's/wd's just behind the engine support mount, frame rail is much stronger than the engine support angle iron.

Where to hook tie downs on a NF WD on a trailer?

Will Herring

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DeltaSteve

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TractorTucker

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showcrop

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paul

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Will Herring

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showcrop

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4wdtom

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jimtrs

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Will Herring

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bc

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showcrop

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Dennis K (WA)

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Will Herring

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Paul from MI

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Hoenes

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ramblineagle

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