Follow up to

TJ in KY · Dec 1, 2020

Since the original post is about 4 pages down I thought I would start a new thread. First of all, I would like to thank all who offered suggestions, very helpful.
It will "pop" once with the muffler off. If I put the muffler back on I get nothing. I tried using the starting procedure that 4play suggested and it still seems like it is flooding. No more than 3 pulls with the choke on, release the choke and pull 3-5 times more and the plug is wet. Fresh batch of fuel 50:1 ratio.
To summarize I have cleaned the muffler ( I can blow thru it no problem) , checked the diaphragms on the carb, soft and pliable, checked the keyway on crank and flywheel, both are intact. key was moulded into the flywheel.
It seems to have a good spark (¼ inch gap on my tester), good compression (130 psi, 4 pulls. That makes me think it is in the carb. It looks like I can get a carb for about $14.00 new mufflers are $70.00 so I am thinking about getting a carb to put on it.
Anyone have any other thoughts about it
Thanks again. Tom

Bob Gauntt · Dec 1, 2020

I think your condensor is bad, distributor will show spark but motor will show symtoms like your getting.

used red MN · Dec 1, 2020

Must be this chainsaw, see link. See the trouble is I can’t walk out and see the saw sitting on the bench to remind me it is doing this and not doing that.
Original post

Janicholson · Dec 1, 2020

heat the spark plug with a propane torch till the ground electrode is red. Then Pick it up with pliers and put it in hot. Pull the rope and watch it go. jim

Steve@Advance · Dec 1, 2020

I've had fairly good success with the aftermarket carbs.

For that price you can't get the parts for the original.

Did you find a spark arrestor screen in the muffler? That is what clogs, it is usually right at the outlet, easy access for cleaning.

jal-SD · Dec 1, 2020

Make sure the flywheel has not "slipped" on the crankshaft. The key that is between the crank & the flywheel can "bend or warp" & allow the flywheel to be out time. Had a brand new Craftsman saw that would do the same thing. Took it to an authorized Craftsman repair shop. Guy would take it apart, not find anything, put it back together, start it, rev it up & it would quit running. After about three times, he was ready to ask Craftsman to send a new saw. Took it apart one final time & discovered the key was "warped". Put a new key in it. That was in 1976. The saw is still running today. Check to make sure it's in time.

paul · Dec 1, 2020

You coulda added one more word to your subject line, they don’t charge any more if you do....

What machine are you working on?

Good luck with it!

Paul

TJ in KY · Dec 1, 2020

Sorry guys, I thought I had the title correct. I proofed my post before I hit post it but did not even look at title.

TJ in KY · Dec 1, 2020

It was a Homelite UT10544 chainsaw.

Dave41A · Dec 1, 2020

I went nuts on my Echo CS-590. Ultimately took it in to a technician. Stumped him as well. After a lot of back-and-forth turned out that the Echo (really walbro) carbs have some sort of internal diaphragm or check valve that once it fails, is not replaceable as the rest of the carburetor is built around it. A brand new carb ($150--ouch!) got it running again. If you can get a good carb for $14 go for it. I looked into replacing the carb on a Homelite a few years back and what they were asking for new carbs exceeded the price of the saw.

My saw was under warranty, but of course the failure was not caused by a "manufacturing defect" so they stuck me with the bill. Makes me wonder what they will actually cover, if anything. Good luck. Dave

TJ in KY · Dec 1, 2020

Here are some pictures of the crankshaft, flywheel, muffler and spark arrestor

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